The 5df0 5df1 ABS/Traction/DSC - your experience

Plus this does start as an intermittent fault and comes and goes but then one day it comes and stays for good. You can still drive it though. Although mine came on one day and never went. For all I know it was an intermittent fault with the previous owner, ahh well hopefully will be fixed soon
 
I have suffered the misfortune of the dreaded 'trifecta' and these exact same 5DF0 5DF1 codes for around 4 months. Reports of nearly 2k dealership repair bills, left me with a squeaky bottom moment to say the least.

After a lot of research surrounding this problem, it needn't be as expensive or problematic to fix as might seem. With very little information surrounding removal procedure (especially on a Z4), I decided to attack the pump/module removal myself and take a few pictures along the way. Assuming it would be of assistance to fellow Z owners, I am more than happy to post my experiences, notes and pictures if anyone would be interested?

Although my problem is not yet cured, my unit is due to be received within 24 hours by ECU testing for refurb. So far it's cost me approximately £260 including postage to and fro & that includes a lifetime warranty. After all the positive reviews coming from the ECU testing, I am hopeful that by this weekend I shall have the refurbished unit back on the car with the brakes bled and me back on the road, minus the dreaded trifecta!
 
fdsy said:
I have suffered the misfortune of the dreaded 'trifecta' and these exact same 5DF0 5DF1 codes for around 4 months. Reports of nearly 2k dealership repair bills, left me with a squeaky bottom moment to say the least.

After a lot of research surrounding this problem, it needn't be as expensive or problematic to fix as might seem. With very little information surrounding removal procedure (especially on a Z4), I decided to attack the pump/module removal myself and take a few pictures along the way. Assuming it would be of assistance to fellow Z owners, I am more than happy to post my experiences, notes and pictures if anyone would be interested?

Although my problem is not yet cured, my unit is due to be received within 24 hours by ECU testing for refurb. So far it's cost me approximately £260 including postage to and fro & that includes a lifetime warranty. After all the positive reviews coming from the ECU testing, I am hopeful that by this weekend I shall have the refurbished unit back on the car with the brakes bled and me back on the road, minus the dreaded trifecta!


hope that route works for you - they couldnt fix mine - apparently if its the pump - there is a fix kit - if its the controller - you are buggered.

I do have a working, spare pump and controller - 2 of in fact, one is for a 2.5 SI sport and the other is an older 2.5 ....
 
chris g said:
hope that route works for you - they couldnt fix mine - apparently if its the pump - there is a fix kit - if its the controller - you are buggered.

I do have a working, spare pump and controller - 2 of in fact, one is for a 2.5 SI sport and the other is an older 2.5 ....


I did read in one of ECUtesting's numerous 'details' pages that there was a disclaimer "not all parts can be repaired". I am really hoping that I don't fall into that category, as that really would be just my luck.

Just out of interest, did you manage to pull any codes with your particular problem?
I got:
5DF0 = DSC Hydraulic unit: pump motor
5DF1 = DSC Hydraulic unit: pump motor connector faulty.

Who knows what this ACTUALLY means, but I'm sincerely hoping that because 'pump motor' is specifically mentioned, that it is indeed the motor at fault. I shall keep you posted, as I feel this thread was designed as a sharing spot for this issue.

Hopefully tonight once I am home, I shall post a few pictures of how I went about removing the unit. Meanwhile my pump is due to be received by the testing place this morning. I shall await the much talked about 'text message updates'.
Fingers crossed.
 
i hope you will be ok - it seems that the cars most affected by the controller are the 2.5 si sport .... I knew i should have bought the 3.0 ...
 
Well the pump has been with ECUtesting since Tuesday morning. By Thursday afternoon I received a message to say it was finally on the engineer's bench to be tested. Today (Friday) should see some kind of an outcome. I am far from out of the woods yet. However like yourself I am having doubts over my purchase decision... I wish i'd gone for a z4mc!!!!!!!

I have a friend who is now showing me up.. or should I say SHE! If only I had spent an extra few grand two years ago. z4mc's seem to have shot up in value. At least that's the case for a low mileage example.

Anyway, I digress. I have selected some DIY pump removal photos and I am in the process of fine tuning the steps. Hopefully this will be of use to others!
 
Fdsy I am experiencing the same problem at the moment on my 2007 2.0 and plan to send my unit to ecu test soon so if you could upload a 'how to' that would be fantastic!
 
DANIEL337 said:
Fdsy I am experiencing the same problem at the moment on my 2007 2.0 and plan to send my unit to ecu test soon so if you could upload a 'how to' that would be fantastic!

Good morning.

I received news from ECUtesting today, my unit has been processed/completed by the engineer. I hadn't been given any further details on the outcome, so I gave them a call. It was really starting to worry me that there had been a problem, or that my unit could not be repaired, however this was not the case! I was informed there was a fault, it has been repaired and my unit is out for despatch. So of course I am very happy right now.

I am currently at 'work' so I can't do any picture uploading atm. The biggest problem of this job is how to handle the fluid in the reservoir/brake lines. I (perhaps wrongly) drained the fluid from each calliper, prior to removing the unit. This resulted in very little mess when I removed the lines from the pump, but I am not sure if I have given myself more work to do later. It may have introduced a lot of air and could cause me further problems when I come to bleed the system. (If anyone has any further experience or advice on bleeding from 'dry' it would be greatly appreciated.) My car is actually due a service anyway, so the fluid will get another bleed then.

Post unit removal I did discover on another forum that it is possible to actuate the brake pedal and secure with a "pedal pusher" which closes some valves on the open system. So this could potentially be an alternative route?? (Again anyone with greater knowledge please feel free to step in)

In any case I will post the steps on how I went about removing my unit. Hopefully it will be of help & certainly better than nothing at all (which is how I began the job!)
 
fdsy, I have this same issue, although have not yet explored cleaning the sensors. I would greatly appreciate any photos, etc. as I don't even know where the ABS/DSC is of what it looks like!

BTW, where are you based?
 
DR-Z said:
fdsy, I have this same issue, although have not yet explored cleaning the sensors. I would greatly appreciate any photos, etc. as I don't even know where the ABS/DSC is of what it looks like!

BTW, where are you based?


open the bonnet - as you look into the bonnet, it is attached to the the bulkhead - upper left - 6 or 8 metal pipes connecting to it, a black square plastic box 6 inches ish x 6 inches (the controller) connected to the metal pump
 
Thanks Chris. Can the unit be removed without having to remove the pump (and presumably drain the hydraulics)?
 
DR-Z said:
Thanks Chris. Can the unit be removed without having to remove the pump (and presumably drain the hydraulics)?
Nope I don't think so

I do have a complete unit at I think will match yours though. We can check numbers to see

Have you had a fault code diagnose that it is the controller ? There are pa few much cheaper fixes before you have to replace or repair
 
Fault codes are:

5DF0 Hydraulic unit: pump motor
5DF1 Hydraulic unit: pump motor connector fault

I also had one for low battery charge, which seemed to start all this, but is probably unrelated.

Will take a look at the unit tomorrow to get the part number - I gather there are a few variations but the replacement needs to be the exact number.

What are the cheaper fixes you refer to?
 
there are abs sensors that throw up faults, but it seems as if you have the fault codes.

the one that i have that I bought for a 2.5SI has 6764 088 on the ATE controller also 10.0960-0821.3 00008214e0 and 3451 6763959 - 10.0206-0119.4 on the pump - they came connected
 
I had this exact same fault about a month ago, local dealer diagnosed the fault as hydro unit. I was quoted £2350 to repair, the local dealer spoke to BMW uk about some good will but they said no, I phoned them myself and got the final price down to £1199.

Mines an 57 plate, 25k, with full service history.

Be careful as my traction control switched off when the lights came on :driving:
 
Goodwill sounds good, but my service history includes specialists, rather than main dealers, so they may not honour this. :(
 
Staying true to my word: http://www.instructables.com/id/BMW-Z4-E86-DSC-ABS-pumpmodule-removal/

Let me know if you have any problems viewing the link, it's the first time I have used the site to produce a step-by-step.

I realise the re-fitting and bleeding is a bit vague, but my tutorial covers the unit removal. I am sure there are specific posts related to the correct bleed procedure, if so please share the link here.

I hope this helps a few of you out anyway!
 
Thanks fdsy. Looks like a tricky job. Did you need to recode? Is all working OK now?
 
In retrospect I would say the unit removal became more complex as the job evolved. However don't let that put you off! There is still a substantial saving to be had here. The unit removal itself I found to be quite easy.

Simple pressure bleeder by Sealey (VS820) is £40 (ebay delivered)
Diagnostic kit - allows accurate diagnostics of current/future problems and proper bleed procedure/sensor calibration. It will soon pay for itself £40 (from cable-shack - Jimmy is super helpful and is always on hand to help with any problems)
Refurb DSC £260 (including the shipping cost)

Total = £340

ECUtesting does state that the unit MAY need to be re-coded and I did need to recode, but actually following the youtube tutorial (the link is in the last step in my tutorial), made this process stress free!

It's a very doable job, providing you have the confidence to follow a few steps. Of course I can appreciate that it might not be everyone's cup of tea.
 
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