TCochrane92's Z4 Coupe Progress Thread

Tcochrane92 said:
Oh I just assumed it was the same as the E85 for the brake light? Good thing I haven't ordered one yet!

How much did the LSD set you back? Got details of it? I'll absolutely add it to my list
Suspension refresh should be on there too i agree, I'm actually thinking of going for Bilstein shocks and Eibach springs, with poly bushes all around

For LED's - how do you code out the sidelight warning lamp on the dash?
For turn signal lamps - are they just straight swaps for LED's? Do they need resistors to get the right flash rate?

Thanks mate
Click to expand...

LSD isn't cheap but get a spare diff and it's removable if you ever come to sell. I got a Quaife when Bird's had an offer on and love it but don't expect change from £1500 if they fit it.

B12 kit will do that but don't forget lower arms, drop links and RTABs too.

For LEDs you simply turn off the bulb checks, without coding you need resistors but I'm not a fan of using them unless someone really doesn't want to code.
I've used a mix of Philips and Osram on mine but would happily use Osram LEDriving premium for them all. I didn't bother doing the fogs as they're so rarely used.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
Tcochrane92 said:
Oh I just assumed it was the same as the E85 for the brake light? Good thing I haven't ordered one yet!

How much did the LSD set you back? Got details of it? I'll absolutely add it to my list
Suspension refresh should be on there too i agree, I'm actually thinking of going for Bilstein shocks and Eibach springs, with poly bushes all around

For LED's - how do you code out the sidelight warning lamp on the dash?
For turn signal lamps - are they just straight swaps for LED's? Do they need resistors to get the right flash rate?

Thanks mate
Click to expand...

LSD isn't cheap but get a spare diff and it's removable if you ever come to sell. I got a Quaife when Bird's had an offer on and love it but don't expect change from £1500 if they fit it.

B12 kit will do that but don't forget lower arms, drop links and RTABs too.

For LEDs you simply turn off the bulb checks, without coding you need resistors but I'm not a fan of using them unless someone really doesn't want to code.
I've used a mix of Philips and Osram on mine but would happily use Osram LEDriving premium for them all. I didn't bother doing the fogs as they're so rarely used.
Click to expand...

I'll just stick with the stock diff in that case and refresh the fluid

For the coding - do you just use Carly for that?

Reminds me, I actually need to change my Xenons too, they're going a nasty purple-ish tinge :thumbsdown:

That'll be the next session I think - xenon bulbs, all remaining exterior bulbs to LED, diff & gearbox fluid
 
Well, if you want it to handle like it should and be able to get the power down, LSD FTW! :thumbsup:

You can use Carly but I've only used NCS Expert. Can provide copies of my trace to show options turned on and off and what they have done.
 
I back up the Quaife LSD being worth it. You don't have to drive sideways everywhere but it tightens up the line on corner exit very nicely.
 
Tcochrane92 said:
Buckz said:
Tcochrane92 said:
Yeah did it myself this afternoon after work.

I used the Bimmertune retrofit loom that's in this thread: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=95070
Then I got the stalk from a breaker, recommended to me by Ducklakeview (thanks Mike!)

I've fitted the official BMW kit before to my previous Zed and that was harder than the bimmertune kit. None of it is particularly difficult at all, it's just fairly time consuming.
Any other details you'd like mate?
Click to expand...

I've got the bimmer tune kit has been sitting in a box for like a month, not yet brave enough to fit it! I'm a bit confused by the instructions as far as routing the blue wire go? and where it needs to end up at and how to get it to the engine bay/which pin to use etc. Which is why I have yet to attempt it :o
Click to expand...

Ahh right ok. Well the first hard bit is figuring out which brown/black wire to splice into with the light switch! (there's two identical wires)
Blue wire goes through the dash to behind the glovebox. It's hard to describe...

Where are you located mate? If you're local I'm happy to give you a hand
Click to expand...

I'm in south london, croydon to be specific.

do these -; http://bimmertune.com/index.php?route=blog/article&article_id=5

make sense? I mean all of it is pretty clear the only question mark is the pin at the end? is the doc correct?
 
I'll send you a PM, but also search I've posed diagrams and pics for N52 before.
The glove box does not need to be removed. The pin looks correct but I'm not sire about their cable, what connector does it have on the end? I have a spare BMW black repair addition that is for that connector. Get some better scotchlocks if you won't get the BMW loom, BMW locks are much better quality and are cheap.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
I'll send you a PM, but also search I've posed diagrams and pics for N52 before.
The glove box does not need to be removed. The pin looks correct but I'm not sire about their cable, what connector does it have on the end? I have a spare BMW black repair addition that is for that connector. Get some better scotchlocks if you won't get the BMW loom, BMW locks are much better quality and are cheap.
Click to expand...

Yeah I went to my car and had a good digg around, the glovebox on mine seems to have one side broken off - guess previous owner tried to access the fuses and broke the hinge which basically means that as soon as you unclip the top it just falls out. Not ideal!

rest looks pretty simple as far as routing goes, the bimmer tune came with this -;
s-l500.jpg

so basically two wires to snap into on the light switch, one connector to the cruise stalk and blue wire goes to the engine bay and into the box.

not sure how different that is to the bmw's official retro fit "kit" ?
 
Buckz said:
Scooba_Steve said:
I'll send you a PM, but also search I've posed diagrams and pics for N52 before.
The glove box does not need to be removed. The pin looks correct but I'm not sire about their cable, what connector does it have on the end? I have a spare BMW black repair addition that is for that connector. Get some better scotchlocks if you won't get the BMW loom, BMW locks are much better quality and are cheap.
Click to expand...

Yeah I went to my car and had a good digg around, the glovebox on mine seems to have one side broken off - guess previous owner tried to access the fuses and broke the hinge which basically means that as soon as you unclip the top it just falls out. Not ideal!

rest looks pretty simple as far as routing goes, the bimmer tune came with this -;
s-l500.jpg

so basically two wires to snap into on the light switch, one connector to the cruise stalk and blue wire goes to the engine bay and into the box.

not sure how different that is to the bmw's official retro fit "kit" ?
Click to expand...

There's a piece of trim in the passenger footwell, behind the glovebox (towards the bulkhead) that you need to remove (after removing the glovebox). That gives you access to the bulkhead pass-through.
Just push the blue wire through there until it comes through to the other side (into an electrics box held with torx screws - T25)

There's another black box attached to previous mentioned box. It's a seperate black box that's hanging vertically (that's the IVM block). Once you get the wire into there (not easy), remove the grey plug. Slide out one of the black connectors in the grey plug (as outlined in the instructions) and connect into that.

I didn't cut the blue wire at all like the instructions suggest - I found that you don't need to.
The blue wire has a connector on it under the black shrink wrap plastic thing, so carefully peel that back. That's the correct connector you need to go into the grey plug

Hope that helps
 
Tcochrane92 said:
Buckz said:
Scooba_Steve said:
I'll send you a PM, but also search I've posed diagrams and pics for N52 before.
The glove box does not need to be removed. The pin looks correct but I'm not sire about their cable, what connector does it have on the end? I have a spare BMW black repair addition that is for that connector. Get some better scotchlocks if you won't get the BMW loom, BMW locks are much better quality and are cheap.
Click to expand...

Yeah I went to my car and had a good digg around, the glovebox on mine seems to have one side broken off - guess previous owner tried to access the fuses and broke the hinge which basically means that as soon as you unclip the top it just falls out. Not ideal!

rest looks pretty simple as far as routing goes, the bimmer tune came with this -;
s-l500.jpg

so basically two wires to snap into on the light switch, one connector to the cruise stalk and blue wire goes to the engine bay and into the box.

not sure how different that is to the bmw's official retro fit "kit" ?
Click to expand...

There's a piece of trim in the passenger footwell, behind the glovebox (towards the bulkhead) that you need to remove (after removing the glovebox). That gives you access to the bulkhead pass-through.
Just push the blue wire through there until it comes through to the other side (into an electrics box held with torx screws - T25)

There's another black box attached to previous mentioned box. It's a seperate black box that's hanging vertically (that's the IVM block). Once you get the wire into there (not easy), remove the grey plug. Slide out one of the black connectors in the grey plug (as outlined in the instructions) and connect into that.

I didn't cut the blue wire at all like the instructions suggest - I found that you don't need to.
The blue wire has a connector on it under the black shrink wrap plastic thing, so carefully peel that back. That's the correct connector you need to go into the grey plug

Hope that helps
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip! got to the electrics box without removing the glovebox :) all in and working! happy days.
 
Loving this thread! Although my bank account is hating it!! 75% into what I want to do & £3k down! Y do Z's turn us into 17yr olds again wanting to mod it non stop!?
 
So today I bled the brakes and changed the rear brake pads to a set of new brembos I had lying around in the garage. Good thing too cos one of the old pad's shims had come off!
Will replace the fronts with brembos too when I get around to it

20170715_160228.jpg

Changed the pollen filter, nice easy 10 min job. Here's the old one, yuck!

20170715_190340.jpg

Previously installed led sidelight failed on me after only 3 months! So replaced them with much brighter ones. Shame they're so blue :(
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152564163789

Used an air con fogger that supposedly cleans out all the bacteria in the HVAC system

Then went for a little drive to enjoy my work :oops:

20170715_184924.jpg

20170715_184954.jpg
 
Tcochrane92 said:
Pretty impressed with these new sidelight bulbs. Brightest I've seen so far
Click to expand...

Those look spot on ! My OEM ones are so dim that it's kinda pointless having them on! Is it difficult swapping these over ? What bulb this particular one is ?
 
Here's the link on eBay mate:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152564163789

They're a pain the in the ass as you have to take the wheel off to get enough space. There's a few tutorials on here on how to do it, but requires modifying the bulb holder
This only applies to xenon headlights of course :) different bulb size for halogen units
 
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