Hi all,
Sorry this is a bit long. I have a late 2006 E86 sport. (not M). Have now replaced just about all the suspension - springs, dampers, top mounts, wishbones, drop links and all the bushes. Rear anti-roll ( stabiliser) still to do as on back order from Germany and which was very corroded. Drop links and bushes done. all as OEM spec. Painful but necessary.... Also had full 4 wheel alignment done and all readings in the green.
I had hoped this would sort out the tramlining and although it is better it is still not a relaxing drive, especially on a busy dark wet motorway. Much better on smooth open roads, awful on the bumpy back lanes we have in West Wales.
Still to address the tyres (currently half worn Bridgestone RFT) but will have to use new RFTs probably Goodyear or Michelin as I do long journeys with a full boot and therefore nowhere to put the wheel if I have a puncture. Not expecting a huge difference there.
From much reading and my own racing experience with the Sprite, (50's/60's technology, but feels very much like the Z4 although the Sprite is more stable..) an increase in -ve camber and a touch more toe-in seems to be the next step.
Current settings are as follows which seem pretty close to others I've seen, and the car runs dead straight on a smooth flat road.
front
toe - left 0.05 deg. right 0.07 deg. total 0.12 deg
camber left -0.55 deg. right -0.51 deg
rear
toe left 0.13 deg. right 0.10 deg. total 0.23 deg
camber left -1.22 deg. right -1.28 deg
As a comparison the Sprite runs 1/8th inch toe in and -1.5 to -3.0 deg camber depending on tyres at the front, and similar settings to the Z4 at the rear i.e a touch of toe-in and -1.5 deg camber.
As a start I will push the camber to max without pulling pins and add half a turn each side to increase toe-in. So, does anyone know off hand the TPI of the tie-rod / track rod end thread ? I'd like to know so I have an idea how much change I'm putting in without having an alignment check again. I have a basic camber gauge (pendulum) and toe-in gauge (big "C" type) so I can measure in mm, but probably not as accuratly as the Hunter kit does in degrees.
Any other suggestiions gratefully received.
Many thanks.
Sorry this is a bit long. I have a late 2006 E86 sport. (not M). Have now replaced just about all the suspension - springs, dampers, top mounts, wishbones, drop links and all the bushes. Rear anti-roll ( stabiliser) still to do as on back order from Germany and which was very corroded. Drop links and bushes done. all as OEM spec. Painful but necessary.... Also had full 4 wheel alignment done and all readings in the green.
I had hoped this would sort out the tramlining and although it is better it is still not a relaxing drive, especially on a busy dark wet motorway. Much better on smooth open roads, awful on the bumpy back lanes we have in West Wales.
Still to address the tyres (currently half worn Bridgestone RFT) but will have to use new RFTs probably Goodyear or Michelin as I do long journeys with a full boot and therefore nowhere to put the wheel if I have a puncture. Not expecting a huge difference there.
From much reading and my own racing experience with the Sprite, (50's/60's technology, but feels very much like the Z4 although the Sprite is more stable..) an increase in -ve camber and a touch more toe-in seems to be the next step.
Current settings are as follows which seem pretty close to others I've seen, and the car runs dead straight on a smooth flat road.
front
toe - left 0.05 deg. right 0.07 deg. total 0.12 deg
camber left -0.55 deg. right -0.51 deg
rear
toe left 0.13 deg. right 0.10 deg. total 0.23 deg
camber left -1.22 deg. right -1.28 deg
As a comparison the Sprite runs 1/8th inch toe in and -1.5 to -3.0 deg camber depending on tyres at the front, and similar settings to the Z4 at the rear i.e a touch of toe-in and -1.5 deg camber.
As a start I will push the camber to max without pulling pins and add half a turn each side to increase toe-in. So, does anyone know off hand the TPI of the tie-rod / track rod end thread ? I'd like to know so I have an idea how much change I'm putting in without having an alignment check again. I have a basic camber gauge (pendulum) and toe-in gauge (big "C" type) so I can measure in mm, but probably not as accuratly as the Hunter kit does in degrees.
Any other suggestiions gratefully received.
Many thanks.