Subwoofer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi there, Is it possibly to wire a after market Sub into the standard head unit, i don't want to change the head unit like the Oem look, also have to control the Sat NAV with it also.

But does anyone know of this been done?

Search won't load for some apprently reason, just comes up with no results.


Thanks Joe. :thumbsup:
 
Z4 KiD said:
no, but i was just after a Yes or no answer :)


Joe.

It's a big yes! If you go down the separate sub and amplifier route, you'll need a line driver that accepts speaker level inputs and converts them to a pre-amp signal for the amplifier. There are also some 'all in one' solutions where the sub itself will have a built in amplifier that accepts speaker level inputs.
 
yeah im going for the separate approach my friends is a Audio boot designer or what ever, he said all in one set the amps get destroyed by the bass.

Thanks Joe.
 
Do you have cubby holes or subs behind the seats?

Reason i ask is i'm not sure where you'd take the line feed from if you have a 10 speaker system. On the 10 speaker system the speakers run of an amp in the boot so i dont know if this is a good place to take the feed. I didnt like the results i got from using the stock headunit so had to upgrade.

I blew one of my 12" subs but have a JL 10W6V2 to go in this weekend :)
 
un1eash said:
Reason i ask is i'm not sure where you'd take the line feed from if you have a 10 speaker system. On the 10 speaker system the speakers run of an amp in the boot so i dont know if this is a good place to take the feed.

Not neccessarily. The cheaper 10-speaker option is amped from the head-unit as per usual. High-level outputs should be easy(ish) to find if you have that system.

If you have the Pro / Carver / DSP / 10-speaker + boot amp option then, yes, you may have problems. I believe this is because the audio signal from the headunit to the amp travels down a single digital line rather than seperate standard analog cables.

un1eash said:
I didnt like the results i got from using the stock headunit so had to upgrade.

Yeah. In my experience, OEM headunits are always the source of a lot of problems. Shame it's so completely integrated into the dash / sat nav / OBC etc.
 
I wanted to install a active subwoofer in my Z4 and after a few trials and errors I ended up using this adaptor http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop.php?action=productshow&id=632 (although it is for a mini it works a treat in my 2004 Z4). A simple plug and play adaptor that gives you two RCA lines and a power turn on lead.

It will allow you to keep the stock radio unit and have a subwoofer in the boot. My sub is the active 10" Fusion Bass Tube and it fits on the boot shelf like a glove - sounds pretty amazing too. The whole set up cost me under £100. I hope this helps you.
 
Exactmax, which one do you need to buy? Also, how and where do you route the cables? I'd like a sub in my boot (although the other half would hate it), but I'm not sure on ripping a £18k car apart! It's a coupe, which might make things easier?

Also, have I read your comment wrong, or is it switchable? So you can turn it on and off when you please? That would be ideal.
 
That adaptor gives you a remote wire aswell which is needed to turn on the amp when the ignition is on.

When routing cables just take your time, the Z4 is very easy to pull apart with damage.

I just finished upgrading my 2 12" pioneers subs with a 10" JL 10w6v2, now that sounds amazing and i still havent even run it in yet.....

P1000261.jpg
 
Ah, so it's not switchable, just gives the remote wire for switching it on with the ignition. I've no idea when it comes to this sort of thing but it would be nice to have a small sub in the boot for £100!
 
It starts with £100 subs then you get hooked and before you know it you've spent thousands.

Give it a go yourself and if you get stuck you know where we are.
 
Well I bought the Boost Adaptor for the rear speakers (if that helps). It doesnt really matter weather you have front or rear. The adaptor doesnt allow it to be switched on or off - like the other guy said, the sub turns on as soon as you turn the ignition on. I've got it set up so you can adjust the base on the radio and when put at minimum it has no bass at all. Move the bass levels up on the radio and feel the car rock haha!!!

As for the wiring for it (I did mine in a convertible Z4), I ran the cables from the radio down behind the dashboard, out and under the passenger footwell, under the floormat and seat. Removed the cubby storage bins (drill a hole in the back of them) passed the wire through to the boot (after removing the felt trim of the boot) and plugged it all in.

I had problems earthing the system so I ended up by connecting the earth cable to the negative on the battery. One word of warning when connecting the power lead to the battery; and that is make sure you bang the + terminal back onto the battery (I found out the hardway and had to call the AA out coz the car wouldnt start, he turned up and banged the terminal back on and it worked again - FAIL)


I hope this helps
Max
 
Theres no need to drill holes, theres plenty behind the cubby holes already which you can feed the cables through. I earthed my amps of the bolts that hold the battery box in place.
 
oh sounds complicated :P i would have it fitted by someone i have a tendency to break things :evil:

i was after just a Sub and a mono amp or something, just a little bit of upth.

Joe.
 
Exactly the same as Z4 Kid, I'd have to ask someone to do it for me. Cleaning/detailing a car is no problem, but when it comes to this sort of thing, I have absolutely no idea!
 
On about subwoofers has anyone used this in their Zed; http://www.bassjunkies.com/audio/pioneer-ts-wx77a

Looks like what I'm after as I just want a little reinforcement on the bass front, as I plan to run 3 way Focals up front with an amp and my Pioneer P-88 head unit.

Anyone got this?
 
un1eash said:

rattle galore on the rear shelf? i can see you opted for a ported box, assuming that your trunk lid is shaking and vibrating like hell? did you put deadening in the trunk lid?
 
Back
Top Bottom