Subwoofer - Easy replacement option?

L

Lukeiswho

Member
 Phoenix, AZ
Hello,

I'm new to the Z4 and the forum. (Just posted in the newbie section: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=81087)

I've been searching the forum for a quick answer about swapping subwoofers. I don't know the full story of my car... but it appears the subs have been replaced at one point, and the replacements (Earthquake 6.5's) are blown. I keep seeing the JL Audio 6 and 6.5 popping up on the forum… but my question is: will either/both of those just drop in without modification? Or should I just replace the OEM speakers?

If anyone else has done a straight speaker swap, I'd be interested to know which brand/model you're using.

Thanks!
 
Just in case anyone else is looking for a similar answer… I ordered a set of Kicker CVT65 - 6.5" Subwoofers from ebay. This is an older set, but I found one that was still new in the box. I read on another BMW forum that these subs should slide right in. Assuming so, I will reply with an update and some photos, if possible.
 
I just tracked my package, and the delivery date changed from tomorrow, till the next day now… and I'm going out of town then! So unless it changes again, it'll be close to a week until I can make an update. But I will.
 
I found a set on ebay, just a private seller who happened to have an unused box. But, I was told by a local installer that he just installed the current version Kicker in a Z4… which I THINK is the 6.75"… not sure if there was any modification to the car to make that happen, but I BELIEVE this is the one he meant:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kicker-40CWRT672-CompRT-6-3-Subwoofer/dp/B00Q1UX41K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443610462&sr=8-1&keywords=40CWRT672+CompRT

This one came up on the UK site also… slightly different model number tho..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kickers-COMPRT672%C2%A0-CWRT672-%C2%A0-%C2%A016-5%C2%A0cm-Subwoofer/dp/B00BV3DE4O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1443610548&sr=8-2&keywords=40CWRT672+CompRT

Would suggest calling an install shop to be sure.
 
Well… short answer… The Kickers fit in the current opening, but the OEM sub had a different mounting arrangement. However, one of the previous owners installed at least one set of aftermarket subs. (There were a number of extra drilled holes in the housing) Luckily, one of the sets lined up with the holes on the Kickers.

Sub%20IMG_1820.jpg


Sub%20IMG_1802.jpg


Sub%20IMG_1819.jpg


I found it easier to work with the sub by taking the front plate off the box. You can just see the extra holes in the photo below.

Sub%20IMG_1818.jpg


Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. The problem I thought I was correcting with a new set of speakers still persists. Instead of a "blown" speaker… I think it's just "clipping". Oddly, just the one subwoofer, too. This is where my ignorance comes into play… the OEM subs are 10 ohm, and the replacements are 2 ohm. Obviously, if I could have found an easy swap option that was 10ohm, I'd have opted for that, but I couldn't. However, I'd heard other people have used this set up, so I thought I'd be ok.

Sub%20IMG_1838.jpg


I THINK my issue now is an improper gain level on my amp. (I have verified I have the DSP audio system)

Can anyone comment if there is an easy fix for this?

Incidentally, I also picked up the Kenu Airframe clip, it works great, doesn't take up a lot of space, and isn't atrocious to look at.
 
Just a final update, for the sake of completion…

I ordered a used set of OEM subs off eBay. ($100) I got them today and installed them. They came with the metal cover to the enclosure box, so it would have been a pretty quick swap, but the connector on the OEM speakers is different than the Kickers I had in there. I called around, but couldn't find a replacement, so I ended up just soldering the wires to the terminals. It worked fine, but was tricky in a confined space.

Z4%20speakers.JPG


The OEM subs don't blow me away or anything, but they sound good. I don't tend to enjoy overwhelming low end personally. They aren't clipping, which is most important… so that answers the very obvious question of the different impedance/voltage on aftermarket subs.

I now have 3 sets of subs. I'd like to unload the 2 aftermarket sets if anyone is interested. One is the older (but only lightly used for 2-3 weeks) Kicker CVT 6.5, which I paid $135 for. The other is the Earthquake SWS 6.5… Not looking for a profit on the Earthquake's, but if you want to cover shipping and maybe a few bucks, I'd be happy.
 
When I bought my car, I was wondering why the sound system sucked. Turns out, the amp in the trunk had a bunch of water ingress and led to the subwoofers output of the amp not working. Instead of getting an entire new amp which would run in the hundreds ($6-800?) I just decided to add a dedicated sub amp. Because the OEM subs were 10ohm, I wired them in parallel to get 5ohm, and the 4ohm amp runs them just fine. Don't have L and R now but I don't really need it for the lows anyway. Good writeup though, glad you got it sorted.
 
I know it has been a long time to the post, so 6.5” sub works ok, or do i need to get a 6” sub?
Also, if i want to replace my subwoofer, i’ll need to look for a 10 ohm ones? I tried to search but seems impossible...
 
I know it has been a long time to the post, so 6.5” sub works ok, or do i need to get a 6” sub?
Also, if i want to replace my subwoofer, i’ll need to look for a 10 ohm ones? I tried to search but seems impossible...

Lukeiswho said:
Well… short answer… The Kickers fit in the current opening, but the OEM sub had a different mounting arrangement. However, one of the previous owners installed at least one set of aftermarket subs. (There were a number of extra drilled holes in the housing) Luckily, one of the sets lined up with the holes on the Kickers.

I found it easier to work with the sub by taking the front plate off the box. You can just see the extra holes in the photo below.

Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. The problem I thought I was correcting with a new set of speakers still persists. Instead of a "blown" speaker… I think it's just "clipping". Oddly, just the one subwoofer, too. This is where my ignorance comes into play… the OEM subs are 10 ohm, and the replacements are 2 ohm. Obviously, if I could have found an easy swap option that was 10ohm, I'd have opted for that, but I couldn't. However, I'd heard other people have used this set up, so I thought I'd be ok.

I THINK my issue now is an improper gain level on my amp. (I have verified I have the DSP audio system)

Can anyone comment if there is an easy fix for this?

Incidentally, I also picked up the Kenu Airframe clip, it works great, doesn't take up a lot of space, and isn't atrocious to look at.
Click to expand...
 
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