Actually, you are right. Need to drive a car with them first. I remember the first time I rode a Ducati 1098S with the most powerful brakes of any road bike at the time. I hated it. Anyone in Hampshire with a brake kit? Would hate to buy something that makes the car feel worse to drive. Made that mistake before with a thicker roll bar on an Honda S2000, ended up putting it back to stock and flogging on the bar at a loss and double the labour cost. :thumbsdown:
Stoptech Big Brake Kit
- Thread starter ITAG
- Start date
Jonny essex said:"Shite mods" name a shite mod i have?CornishRob said:Jonny essex said:Some points i would like to add:
1. Grooved discs vibrate more under breaking and trap just as much dust but i believe washing them resolves that!? :lol:
2. Drilled discs always crack........WTF?! :?
3. Spend money on family......I have none! :wink:
4. 2.5k is not a lot of money to everyone or do we all earn the same salary?!
5. I rather a D2 then the crap OEM breaks looks or no f***ing looks :!:
6. Tracking cars is sad unless u have a fast as f**k car track setup and can drive the c**t out of it!
7. Ive been on more holidays then "wheres wally" 8)
8. Its my Zed....soooooo i believe f**k off is in order
If you earn such a good salary and £2.5k isn't a lot of money to you, why don't you either:
A) Get a decent BBK
B) Get a decent car with decent standard brakes that look nice in the car park. If I saw a D2 BBK, on a chaved up car, I would just think couldn't afford APs personally.
I still don't get why you waste all this money on a old car and put shite mods on it, but it's your car and your money, so the best of luck to you.
?
"old car" its like 2 years older then ur Zed and mine will have less millage and in far better nick.
And lastly i dont want AP breaks, dont rate them so i want D2 brakes which fitted cost 3k nearly so not exactly cheap.
( im very impressed i havent called u a unpleasant name.....must be getting soft ) :lol:
jonny i do like your general enthusiasm but please please please stop talking like your car is in superior condition and mileage to every other car on the forum, its incredibly annoying and misinformed, . Tbh ill leave this thread be as the general lack of knowledge in here is on a large scale evident by numerous posts, if you and other wish for a BBK for looks then good luck to you, on a side note, what happened to the engine swap out?? :evil: :evil:
aquazi said:
This has been an amusing read. If you dont track the car and want looks then why not get some £50 caliper covers
Also dont BBK's especially pretty massive 355 with 6pot's weigh more? I would check the weight of these first as Adding unsprung weight for road use will actually make your car drive and feel slower!
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mine were lighter on each corner
You've got to admit this forum is good value ... 
A couple of comments:
1. fit - it isn't necessarily as simple as saying "XXX mm discs will fit under NN inch wheels"; you really need to check the caliper profile and compare with your wheel to be sure. Most manufacturers should publish the relevant details, e.g. here is the AP drawing for their 6-pot/356mm front for the Z4M: http://www.apracing.com/drawings/P16230.pdf
When I bought my APEX wheels I had extensive email conversations with the manufacturer about getting the right wheel in the right specification to ensure that they would clear the calipers, including providing that drawing.
2. cross-drilled discs - yes, I'm afraid they really do fill up with dust (which you can clear of course with a bit of effort - a cordless drill with a small drill bit works well) and cracking around the holes is a real problem. The cracks are only surface cracks, but, as an example, the Porsche advice is when the cracks extend more than 5mm from the hole edge they need to be replaced. I went though a set of Porsche cross-drilled discs in a single day once. Plain or grooved are, in my experience, definitely superior. However, see also point 3.
I will say that the BMW OEM discs (which I rather reluctantly fitted to the rear of my car) do seem much better than the Porsche ones - I think the fact the holes are properly countersunk makes a big difference - though I still spend too much time clearing out the crap.
3. why do it - I sort of see why you might do it just for the look; and really if that's the case and performance is neither here nor there, then it probably doesn't matter which disc you get - I'm sure they'll all work just fine in normal road driving. If you want to properly extend the car though, then I would definitely get the best discs I could.
4. brake balance - if you do fronts and rears, especially if it is a really substantial rear setup, you may find the rear is over-braked; I certainly find that the same pads front and rear will have that result in my car, so I run a less aggressive pad in the rear to compensate.
A couple of comments:
1. fit - it isn't necessarily as simple as saying "XXX mm discs will fit under NN inch wheels"; you really need to check the caliper profile and compare with your wheel to be sure. Most manufacturers should publish the relevant details, e.g. here is the AP drawing for their 6-pot/356mm front for the Z4M: http://www.apracing.com/drawings/P16230.pdf
When I bought my APEX wheels I had extensive email conversations with the manufacturer about getting the right wheel in the right specification to ensure that they would clear the calipers, including providing that drawing.
2. cross-drilled discs - yes, I'm afraid they really do fill up with dust (which you can clear of course with a bit of effort - a cordless drill with a small drill bit works well) and cracking around the holes is a real problem. The cracks are only surface cracks, but, as an example, the Porsche advice is when the cracks extend more than 5mm from the hole edge they need to be replaced. I went though a set of Porsche cross-drilled discs in a single day once. Plain or grooved are, in my experience, definitely superior. However, see also point 3.
I will say that the BMW OEM discs (which I rather reluctantly fitted to the rear of my car) do seem much better than the Porsche ones - I think the fact the holes are properly countersunk makes a big difference - though I still spend too much time clearing out the crap.
3. why do it - I sort of see why you might do it just for the look; and really if that's the case and performance is neither here nor there, then it probably doesn't matter which disc you get - I'm sure they'll all work just fine in normal road driving. If you want to properly extend the car though, then I would definitely get the best discs I could.
4. brake balance - if you do fronts and rears, especially if it is a really substantial rear setup, you may find the rear is over-braked; I certainly find that the same pads front and rear will have that result in my car, so I run a less aggressive pad in the rear to compensate.
Jonny essex said:Track days my arse, im doing it for looks :lol:
BTW drilled better then grooved, less vibration under breaking and better cooling
I went for both
Paulwirral
Active member
Lark speed offer k sport in a varying selection of sizes , piston numbers and pad selection at reasonable prices for a BBK , no idea if they are any good though .
simonlpearce
Senior member
Im suprised there isn't more talk of the performance BMW calipers on here. They run off a standard CSL fitment 345mm disc so would just need caliper and carriers made and away you do. Think this would cost a lot less than £3k and would give the looks everyone so desires. Plus its been tried and tested on the E46 M's.
Most of these K2/Stoptech kits are just rebranded Wilwood or similar anyway aren't they?
I have to agree with some though that £3k is a LOT to pay just for looks!
I did the UUC Wilwood BBK for £600 on my E36 M3. Got a used set of Wilwood superlights, rebuilt and re-painted them myself, and had a set of carriers made up by a friend for £50. Give's me a 345mm disc with 4 pots and only did it for looks really.
Most of these K2/Stoptech kits are just rebranded Wilwood or similar anyway aren't they?
I have to agree with some though that £3k is a LOT to pay just for looks!
I did the UUC Wilwood BBK for £600 on my E36 M3. Got a used set of Wilwood superlights, rebuilt and re-painted them myself, and had a set of carriers made up by a friend for £50. Give's me a 345mm disc with 4 pots and only did it for looks really.
By the seaside...
simonlpearce
Senior member
TomK said:
There you go, a much more sensible option imo, plus its OEM and i expect if you didnt want rear would be just a touch over £1k.
I don't think it's 'harsh' - any 'upgrade' (on any car) that costs more than half the value of the vehicle is, by any normal standard, dubious.Paza3 said:Dude that's a bit harsh , if the chap wants to spend the dollar let it be.... Simon's suggestion sounds a good one with a M brake set up as a soloutionPerryGunn said:
I'm not saying that people shouldn't do it as, after all, it's their money but it's a hell of an outlay for a bit of bling....
simonlpearce
Senior member
^^^ This i would have to agree on. I would much rather stick the £3k in the bank and over time put it towards the M fund. After all an M will likely get you laid, where a set of £3k brakes wont :lol:
simonlpearce
Senior member
Mikey_Boy said:Going back to the topic a little....
I am really liking the idea of the BMWP parts as a decent upgrade. Do they work well and does anyone have a parts list please??
Easy upgrade for an M???
Have a read here for some inspiration.
http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=67110&highlight=performance+brake+upgrade
Mikey_Boy said:Going back to the topic a little....
I am really liking the idea of the BMWP parts as a decent upgrade. Do they work well and does anyone have a parts list please??
Easy upgrade for an M???
Work very well.
You'll need
BMW Performance Calipers 34116786741 & 34116786742
e39 brake pad sensor 34352229018
Pads, up to you but for track work I would highly recommend the Pagid RS-29 @ around £250 iirc, OEM pads are about £100 I think
Custom brackets, bolts and goodridge hoses from a user called 'Dino' on M3cutters £230 - as far as I am aware he is the only source for these as he makes them himself.
Bolt straight on, you may need spacers, haven't checked with standard M rims, CSLs will not require spacing
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