stick with dmf or change to solid flywheel?

oz-boz

Member
 Hastings east sussex
I'm thinking of a new clutch & flywheel after Xmas.
(3.0se 2004)

The previous owner blew the clutch but never changed the flywheel as he couldn't afford the dmf at the time.
It's starting to rattle slightly, I can feel it through the gearstick, feels loose and clunky, appears I need slightly more revs & rattles on shutdown if I leave clutch in, not if I have peddle down. I haven't noticed it slipping really. Part of me thinks maybe I'm being paranoid, but still I think it needs doing.

I've read a lot of pros & cons for solid flywheel but to be honest these came from people talking theory.

Has anyone actually experience of swapping from dmf to single solid flywheel? Need to make my decision soon.

Also, while I have the work done is there anything else I should think of changing...gearbox oil etc...

Thanks for any advice :thumbsup:

Oz
 
Yes I have done a few .... If it has no pony then swap away but if it has pony be careful as its there to absorb the power . I have saw driveshafts fail ,diffs and gearboxes fail but only in cars with torque . Keep in mind too flywheel crank and rods are weighted together so if your going solid weight should be similar ...Would I do one in a 90 hp transit yes , in my Zed nope . It should only be about £300 or so ,solid one will cost you 2ish..
 
lotus791 - Thanks for the advice, I'l stick with the dmf.
Out of interest where can you get a dmf for 300? Cheapest I found was £399 (LUK) from eurocarparts.

Thanks
 
I have a trade account with euro so it would be a bit cheaper .Have a look in eBay there are plenty at or below 300
 
If you are going to a single mass flywheel, you absolutely have to install a sprung hub clutch too. I have the Bimmerworld/Clutchmasters stage 1 organic sprung hub clutch and JB Racing lightweight aluminum flywheel. There is some chatter at idle, but I've got a tune ready to install that raises the idle rpm to 950 revs.

The performance improvement is there, but the best feature is the feel. The car is so easy to drive now. It's intuitive, rev matching is easier, and minor inconsistencies in engine/transmission speed (mistakes) are less shocking to the car because of the reduction in rotational mass. There was an increase in holding capacity by 40%, and the clutch pedal feels that much stiffer. If you go thie single mass route, you need a high quality matched set, but it's worth it for feel alone. The added performance is just a bonus.
 
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