Steering rack grease type

[Robster68]

I’m looking for suggestions and how much do you use under the rubber boots?Do you pack them out like rear driveshaft ones?

 

[grannyknot]

Generally, not a lot is needed, the inner tie rod has a space behind the ball that is packed with grease before metal is crimped around it, a bit isn't going to hurt.
But if boot is loaded up, on fast turns the grease and air have to exit that boot quickly and it can blow the end out, then there is the possibility of sand getting in.
If you want to be diligent you cut the metal band, pull the boot back from the rack side, turn the wheel all the way on that side and lube up the rack well then do the same on the other.
A tie wrap works just as well to seal up the boot again.

 

[Robster68]

Thanks for detailed reply,I’m replacing tie rods and ball joints anyway,,so I’ll remove the boots clean out all old grease turning steering from lock to lock and replace with this bmw grease.

 

[u02sgb]

You sure using a zip tie is ok?

Having to buy the tools to do it with a proper metal crimp is the only thing putting me off.

 

[BumpyZ4]

You sure using a zip tie is ok?

Having to buy the tools to do it with a proper metal crimp is the only thing putting me off.

After greasing my rack I installed a zip tie and it's been on for over a year with no issues.

 

[u02sgb]

Excellent, thanks.

 

[Robster68]

I bought sachs grease finally and can recommend it,very nice consistency.
Greased the rack,fitted new tie rods,the lemforder rubber boots are different to the old ones,metal clips supplied 56mm and 52mm which seems a bit big when fitted on the car.

 

[grannyknot]

I found the torque spec for those inner ball joints was almost impossible to reach considering there is nothing more than the rack itself to hold on to, it's okay on the pinion side but the far side the rack ends up twisting in a very scary way, I used thread locker, red.

 

[Robster68]

I found the torque spec for those inner ball joints was almost impossible to reach considering there is nothing more than the rack itself to hold on to, it's okay on the pinion side but the far side the rack ends up twisting in a very scary way, I used thread locker, red.

They undid with a spanner and hammer so that’s how I did them up.

 

[grannyknot]

I found the torque spec for those inner ball joints was almost impossible to reach considering there is nothing more than the rack itself to hold on to, it's okay on the pinion side but the far side the rack ends up twisting in a very scary way, I used thread locker, red.

They undid with a spanner and hammer so that’s how I did them up.

Good idea, I also removed with sharp raps with a hammer but didn't think to re tighten the same way.