Steering issue at highway speeds

[Bad_Pritt]

Hey guys, sorry if this has been discussed before but I couldn't really find a good post on here after half an hour search. Except for one remark made in this topic on sticky steering: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=106915&hilit=sticky+steering

Ben G commented the following: "Still not 100% sure what this 'sticky steering' actually feels like. Mine likes to twitch at motorway speeds, to the point where I can take my hands off the wheel and the steering wheel will physically move left and right of it's own accord.

It doesn't make for enjoyable journies. It feels as if I'm constantly fighting to keep the steering wheel straight.

Is that sticky steering?"

That's exactly what mine feels like now. Someone suggested that the bushes might be worn and further in the topic also read that only models up to 2006 suffered "sticky steering" and that symptoms are different from what I'm suffering. I noticed before that some of the wheel alignment weights were laying on the ground next to my car so I assumed that this was the issue. Got all wheels aligned but still get the issue at highway speeds.

So my car is from 2007 and now has done 115K kms. From what I know from the previous owner, the rear set-up has been entirely renewed about 2 years ago, but I don't think the front suspension has ever been refurbished.

So long story short, it seems like at least my front bushes need replacement but I'd like to know a little more on this before looking at this. Actually, I'd like to know if it is hard to do yourself or better to go to a good garage and get it fixed? I suppose I'll need an alignment afterwards as well? Anyone can recommend a good topic or tell me some more on this? Preferably with pics...

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Ewazix]

What you are describing isn't classic 'sticky steering' caused by the column.

I had the same M'way wander on my 2003 when I first had it and on other cars with similar low profile sports set-ups (SLK etc) and it's usually down to a combination of factors. Tyres are a very common cause even when they appear OK, tread pattern type, wear, distortion or simply a combo in terms of size F/R. Swapping decent looking tyres for a new set vastly improved mine. Further improvement came with new lollypop bushes (front end, lower rear control arm bush) and front anti-roll bar bushes, drop links and track rod ends which were all MOT passes but worn. Then finally ironed out the last of the wandering with two different wheel alignments, the second being done by someone who knew what they were doing! I've had years of absolutely stable problem free running since.

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Rear trailing arm bushings will also help, when I fitted poly with integrated limiters it also reduced tramlining.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

For my good understanding, what parts are we speaking of? Number 8 on this diagram? Seems that some of the rubbers are integrated in the wishbone, so I better get that replaced too?

What about the stabilizer rod? Should I replace part number 2 as well to be sure? I have the M-suspension, not sure if that's important to mention?

 

[mjennings23]

If youre at 105k and the front has never been refreshed, you'd be best off replacing the control arms too. They have ball joints that wear over time and are integrated into the arm so the full thing has to be changed. Very easy if doing alongside the bushes and you can get full kits with new arms, lollipops and drop links for around £200 on ebay here in the UK.

So the lollipop bushes and arms are shown in photo 1, parts 8 and 11. Roll bar bushes and drop links parts 2 and 5 in photo 2

 

[Bad_Pritt]

I see, I already ordered parts 8 and 11, so I'll get parts 2 and 5 from pic 2 as well then. After install, I'll get a full alignment as well.

Thanks for the advice guys! I'll keep everyone posted on progress...

 

[Bad_Pritt]

On Facebook someone says that Steering angle sensor calibration is required afterwards? Never read that before.

 

[Ewazix]

On Facebook someone says that Steering angle sensor calibration is required afterwards? Never read that before.

Mine did not need it.

If you are removing part 8 (lollypop) yourself be aware that the rubber bush is filled with oil and can split, not good when you are underneath looking up when it goes!

 

[devilishdoc]

I had symptoms very similar to what you have described. Part 11 in the above diagram was changed as part of an MOT recommendation but didn't make that much difference to the drive if honest.

New Michelin PS4's all around and a hunter alignment have made a massive difference though and pretty much eradicated the issue.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

I’m currently replacing the parts but having some trouble getting the wishbones off. I got myself a ball joint bearing separator fork which should do the trick. Droplinks and powerflex rubbers for the stabiliser rod already replaced, which were clearly in need of replacement: a lot of movement on all rubbers, the rod was easy to move up and down with an iron bar. After replacement of those parts, it was a lot firmer! Coming weekend I’m replacing the wishbones and might paint the calipers red as well.

 

[road warrior]

At last, and thank you to bad pritt for explaining better what I have been wittering about but failed to explain fully my issue. Unfortunately I don't know the names of the parts like he does.. My little 2.0 has the same issues sadly and is spoiling the fun by this twitching at 60mph.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

There are plenty of vids on YouTube on this, but you really need the ball joint separator If you want to give it a go yourself. A couple of sturdy jacks are recommended too.

 

[Jembo]

With the E85, there’s lots of little things you can do to make a difference. I’ve listed them in the order I found the most improvement on my 3.0SE

1. Front lollypops (poly)
2. RTAB’s (never fitted limiters but have a set arrived today to go on the //M)(poly)
3. Bilstein B6 shocks (was running M-Sport suspension so kept springs)
4. New Michelin PS3’s all round
5. Full Wheel alignment & something my indie did for toe in as races M3’s
6. Steering tie rod ends
7. Front & rear drop links
8. ARB bushes(poly)

Again... each bit made a difference, 1 being the most, 8 being the least.

. never did the shock top or engine mounts ... but some say ... you’ll notice a difference

Hope you have deep pockets...but what’s most strange is my AUDI A3 Quattro which I bought new & ran to over 100k still felt almost as taught as the day I bought it & never changed any of this stuff

 

[Jakg]

Have the same problem on mine and am still investigating.

Polybushing the lower arms / RTAB just made it worse as everything stiffened up.

A wheel alignment and adjusting the power steering effect (turning the disc thing on the column) has helped a bit but it's still nowhere near where it should be.

 

[Joycey]

Another thing that's often overlooked on the E85/86 is the wishbones outer joint (to the hub), most cars have a ball joint there but the E85/86 has a rubber joint which mine quite a bit of play in.

I would adjust the steering ring as its simple a free first.

 

[road warrior]

the rubber joint you speak of, is that no 8 ?

 

[Jakg]

Another thing that's often overlooked on the E85/86 is the wishbones outer joint (to the hub), most cars have a ball joint there but the E85/86 has a rubber joint which mine quite a bit of play in.

I would adjust the steering ring as its simple a free first.

Do you have any more information on this? All the pictures online show a ball joint both at the subframe and hub end with a regular bush at the back, as per the E46 and most other cars.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

the rubber joint you speak of, is that no 8 ?

No, number 2 in the second diagram

 

[Bad_Pritt]

So, I replaced the droplinks, wishbones and stabilizer rubbers. I got an alignment and turns out that the tie rods have quite a bit of play. So I ordered a set of those after all. The steering definitely improved, but it’s not as sharp as I’d like it to be. I’ll keep you posted on the progress

 

[Markos_Z4]

what wheel size do you have at the front ?

my z4 has 140K KM i have 9J wheels at the front . . .
i change all the parts on the pic my steering feels like brand new right now
best thing i change was the swaybar front rubbers with Powerflex polyurethane bushings

my z4 was all over the place on the highway . . . now i can drive with no hands on the steering wheel
if i turn right and take my hands of the steering wheel , the steering wheel will go automatic returned to center point