Steering column?

[chris_p]

I've has a problem for the past few months where the ESP lights etc keep illuminating randomly, causing the traction control to disable (not a huge problem).

The fault has seemingly gotten worse however, as the power steering doesn't always work now either.

All of the faults are totally intermittent, there's no real reasoning why they seem to fault when they do.
I've had a specialist look at it, and they can't see anything wrong, so suspect the steering column. I've done some online digging and it seems to be a common problem!

What is this likely to cost me? I know it's not cheap, but the internet thus far hasn't helped me price it. I've seen anything from 800-2500...
It's a 2004 3.0 manual.

Who's had theirs replaced?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Ewazix]

I've has a problem for the past few months where the ESP lights etc keep illuminating randomly, causing the traction control to disable (not a huge problem).

The fault has seemingly gotten worse however, as the power steering doesn't always work now either.

All of the faults are totally intermittent, there's no real reasoning why they seem to fault when they do.
I've had a specialist look at it, and they can't see anything wrong, so suspect the steering column. I've done some online digging and it seems to be a common problem!

What is this likely to cost me? I know it's not cheap, but the internet thus far hasn't helped me price it. I've seen anything from 800-2500...
It's a 2004 3.0 manual.

Who's had theirs replaced?

Thanks for any help!

I think you need to eliminate other basic possibilities and get the fault codes to do some research on them before randomly replacing expensive parts, the symptoms you described could be down to a number of issues, ranging from a failing battery, poor connectors, to steering sensors, abs module, eps etc etc.

Measured over the + and - posts a fully charged battery that has been standing for a few days should be holding 12.4 ish Volts. 12 -12.3v means it's weak and under 12v means its knackered and will cause all kinds of weird electrical gremlins. With the engine running the battery should be reading around 13.7v at idle and not much over 14.5v. There is plenty of advice on the forum about code readers which don't cost a lot

 

[chris_p]

Thanks for the reply.

The car was off sorn off the road for the winter, I replaced the battery for the summer.

I had the car in for an Mot and diagnose the fault at a local BMW specialist, the car apparently didn't register any faults on their machine which I find hard to believe given its faulting everytime I drive it now!

The weird thing is, the PAS is not at all functional at first, but seems to loosen off and start working after a bit of driving.

Absolutely get your point on diagnosing it properly before jumping in the deep end, it's just I don't trust any garages to do it properly and you get your fingers burnt with diagnostic fees!
Maybe bmw themselves?