Steering column change

enuff_zed

enuff_zed

Lifer
 Attleborough, Norfolk
Looking for any advice or pointers if anyone has done this please.
Despite the best efforts of bigwinn and I, we are down to the issue being a torque sensor. I know there is a thread on repairing one, but the column has to come out, and I have a spare complete unit so will do a straight swap.

1. Is it best done wheels on the ground or jacked up, or doesn't it matter?

2. Is there an easy way to disconnect, and more importantly reconnect the UJ in the engine bay. I have a feeling getting this fully back in place will be the problem as no way do I want to be thumping the top end of the column!

3. I realise I need to swap the ignition barrels over to match the car key. Is there anything else that needs to be swapped?

And if there's anything else it would be handy to know, then please shout out. I have a feeling with the limited resources on my gravel drive this could take a little while.
 
I did mine a few weeks ago.

1. On the ground was fine, until after 2, when I had to lift one side to get the wheel off to get the lower steering column off the rack.

2. I snapped the lower steering column by yanking on it too hard. I ended up replacing the column and the rubber boot by the firewall. Lower column is a two piece unit which extends with a bearing in the middle, unlike that on a 3 series which is solid. I would in hindsight unbolt the torx at the top of the column after locking the wheel dead centre and pry gently with a bar after leaving the connection to the upper column soaking in Fast Release or something. Have a cuppa and take your time, teeth are easily damaged.

3. Ignition barrels are swapped and the new column is then (re)coded.

There's a fairly comprehensive video on YT here: https://youtu.be/K00JRcr7Ivk

Only comment to add is if you're working solo; I found it easier to have a jack stand or two inside the car to hold the column whilst I reinstalled it as I was working alone.
 
spazmochad said:
I did mine a few weeks ago.

1. On the ground was fine, until after 2, when I had to lift one side to get the wheel off to get the lower steering column off the rack.

2. I snapped the lower steering column by yanking on it too hard. I ended up replacing the column and the rubber boot by the firewall. Lower column is a two piece unit which extends with a bearing in the middle, unlike that on a 3 series which is solid. I would in hindsight unbolt the torx at the top of the column after locking the wheel dead centre and pry gently with a bar after leaving the connection to the upper column soaking in Fast Release or something. Have a cuppa and take your time, teeth are easily damaged.

3. Ignition barrels are swapped and the new column is then (re)coded.

There's a fairly comprehensive video on YT here: https://youtu.be/K00JRcr7Ivk

Only comment to add is if you're working solo; I found it easier to have a jack stand or two inside the car to hold the column whilst I reinstalled it as I was working alone.
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Thanks for all that.
I am only swapping the top section. I assume by lower column you mean the section from the top UJ, just inside the engine bay, down to the rack?
Was it fairly easy to get the column splines fully back in to the UJ?
What recoding is required?
Would this be negated by reusing the customers original EPS motor?

Good idea on the supports inside. Having a bit of a creaky back I'm thinking seat out first to give me a bit more room too.
 
Yeah the lower column being the UJs and shaft between the upper column and rack. The splines aren't bad at all to get back in provided the teeth are intact and not dented. Umfaan sold me a new one which slotted straight in. They are keyed both ends. Just take your time getting them apart, bit of brake clean to slot then back.
Believe it's the EPS module that needs coding, assume it'll be adding the VIN through the usual tools. I used BBA Reman (through eBay) to send off my entire column and they fixed the module and will optionally do the torque sensor if needed for an additional fee. Has a lifetime warranty, they tweak the slip rings if the steering is heavy as part of it too.
Need to be careful not to twist the column if you're removing the motor because of the torque sensor wire. There's a locking tool you can get if you want to be super safe. It's about £15 from BMW, basically an expensive coat hanger.
Seat out would have made it a lot easier for sure. I was upside down and tweaked my back a lot.
 
spazmochad said:
Yeah the lower column being the UJs and shaft between the upper column and rack. The splines aren't bad at all to get back in provided the teeth are intact and not dented. Umfaan sold me a new one which slotted straight in. They are keyed both ends. Just take your time getting them apart, bit of brake clean to slot then back.
Believe it's the EPS module that needs coding, assume it'll be adding the VIN through the usual tools. I used BBA Reman (through eBay) to send off my entire column and they fixed the module and will optionally do the torque sensor if needed for an additional fee. Has a lifetime warranty, they tweak the slip rings if the steering is heavy as part of it too.
Need to be careful not to twist the column if you're removing the motor because of the torque sensor wire. There's a locking tool you can get if you want to be super safe. It's about £15 from BMW, basically an expensive coat hanger.
Seat out would have made it a lot easier for sure. I was upside down and tweaked my back a lot.
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Now there's a thought! I may suggest to this chap he gets his original rebuilt instead. Thanks.
 
To be fair Martin I have ruined the lower extending part that goes to the rack being over exuberant extracting a column... thats the one part that gives me the jitters
 
bigwinn said:
To be fair Martin I have ruined the lower extending part that goes to the rack being over exuberant extracting a column... thats the one part that gives me the jitters
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Yes I've just ordered a bulk delivery of PlusGas and will be inching it out probably over the course of a month or so. :rofl:
 
I've done mine twice now, and it's not too bad but I would recommend having someone with you to take some of the weight at points, plus take the seat out as you need to get on your back.
I used the video linked earlier, he makes it look a lot easier to get some of the clips out than it actually is, plus my column was stuck tight in the UJ but it came out eventually. You do have to cut the trim, no way around it.

I didn't have to code anything, I just had to reset the steering angle sensor in INPA.

First time I did it, it took like 3 or 4 hours of faffing and working out the best way of doing things. Second time I think I did it in under 90 mins, including removing the old one.
 
Not sure about access to do it, but if I can get in there I may try wiring the top and bottom UJ together to prevent it pulling out.
 
thecremeegg said:
I've done mine twice now, and it's not too bad but I would recommend having someone with you to take some of the weight at points, plus take the seat out as you need to get on your back.
I used the video linked earlier, he makes it look a lot easier to get some of the clips out than it actually is, plus my column was stuck tight in the UJ but it came out eventually. You do have to cut the trim, no way around it.

I didn't have to code anything, I just had to reset the steering angle sensor in INPA.

First time I did it, it took like 3 or 4 hours of faffing and working out the best way of doing things. Second time I think I did it in under 90 mins, including removing the old one.
Click to expand...
Wow! That's as quick as I can do a motor swap.
Just that UJ scaring me atm.
 
The UJ was fine, mine was a bit stuck but I used some penetrating fluid on it and left it, came out after a few good yanks
 
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