Starter motor replacement on N52 engine

Tomsdad

Member
Hi everyone. I will need to change the starter motor on my z4 3.0si N52 engine over the winter months.
From my research on this forum I can't find any thread where it has been done?
Reading things like "just pull the intake manifold" have me worried a little bit as removing the manifold is not an easy task with lots of danger lurking. Many sensors to undo, wiring harness throttle body to name just a few.
Has anyone actually done this?

Kind regards
David
 
I did mine two weeks ago. Took me 45mins to get it out.

Don't need to remove the manifold.

Lee
 
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99618&p=1457412&hilit=starter+motor#p1457412

bit of info by joycey
 
Did mine a week or two ago it didn't take long at all and no need to remove anything, access is fine from the side of the engine.
 
Thanks for that.
Great news. I was convinced by other threads and other sites that the manifold had to come off.
If it's just the induction bits to remove that's easy.
 
The only downside at the moment is why that info didn't come up when I searched the forum. Must be finger trouble on my part.
 
Tomsdad said:
Thanks for that.
Great news. I was convinced by other threads and other sites that the manifold had to come off.
If it's just the induction bits to remove that's easy.

No need to remove the induction bits either you are just making work for yourself if you do that.
 
Not a difficult job if
1 - you have the right spanners etc.
2 - you get plenty of light in the area and have a good look around first to plan your attack
3 - accept that there is very little room to work, especially around the torx at the rear (see point 1).
4 - remember to disconnect and reconnect the battery at the appropriate time ( i didn't and had two frights ....... )

have a look her for some more pics ...
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359809

best of luck
roo
 
To those of you who did it in 45 mins I commend you. A touch over 3 hours to get mine out. With significant damage to knuckles and forearm.
Point to bear in mind.
1. The 2 torx bolts holding the motor to the bell housing are 11mm
2. The terminal with the 2 large cables ( 1 going to the bulkhead and 1 to the alternator.) this took 90% of my time to get off. Once removed the reason was clear. I had to pull all possible slack from the bottom one going to the alternator. Every mm counts. This would have been much easier if I had taken the small black connector off first.
 
Tomsdad said:
Interesting.
Thanks for that. I wonder why they are use once only?

ALL Aluminium bolts must be replace every time they are released (TIS). Because they are stretch bolts tightened to torque and angle.

rooha said:
Approximately no-one. Plus or minus one.

I'll be that 'one' then :lol: I'm sure there will be a few more.

As I see it, the main benefit of DIY work on the car (for me) is knowing the job has been done properly. Cost savings are a happy consequence!
 
I will replace the bolts.
Wonder why they don't use steel bolts? Just curious about these things.
BTW
Bmw wanted £450 for an exchange starter motor. I am having mine reconditioned locally for £50
 
Tomsdad said:
I will replace the bolts.
Wonder why they don't use steel bolts? Just curious about these things.
BTW
Bmw wanted £450 for an exchange starter motor. I am having mine reconditioned locally for £50

It’s so a bimetallic reaction doesn’t occur between the bolts & the magnesium engine case :thumbsup:
Rob
 
All back together and working. Took me 70 minutes to put back together. Still can't believe total replacement can be done in 45 minutes!
However having had the battery disconnected, the Windows won't comfort close and won't one touch close either.
Happy days
 
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