Stalling
- Thread starter ChawenHalo
- Start date
Although I don't find the pictures I've taken, here's the procedure for cleaning the ICV (idle control valve):
1. Remove the intake plenum (manifold):
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/29/17
Note that you can do the throttle hose clamps without the special tool, with some wide-opening pliers and screwdrivers, but you need lots of patience.
2. Remove the ICV:
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/55/30
When refitting, I think you may need to replace the hose clamps (pos. 1 in the TIS picture) with normal, removable ones.
3. Clean the ICV by spraying carburetor cleaner inside the ICV through the hose necks. Rotate the inner restriction valve, either by gently using a screwdriver, or by shaking the ICV body, then spray again. You may blow air to dry it, or simply wait a few minutes.
4. Clean the throttle bodies. Soak a rag with carburetor cleaner. Gently open the butterflies by pushing on the actuator level by hand and hold it like that, and then with the other hand grab the rag and clean inside each throttle body, one by one. Careful not to drop anything down the intake!
Refit everything back.
Mind that this procedure may not solve your stalling issue. The culprit may be somewhere else (e.g. tired lambda sensors, or God knows what else), but at least you eliminate a possible cause with virtually no cost (except some time). And you'll have clean ICV and throttle bodies, which you'll admit as worth doing after seeing all that carbon built-up that comes out.
1. Remove the intake plenum (manifold):
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/29/17
Note that you can do the throttle hose clamps without the special tool, with some wide-opening pliers and screwdrivers, but you need lots of patience.
2. Remove the ICV:
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/55/30
When refitting, I think you may need to replace the hose clamps (pos. 1 in the TIS picture) with normal, removable ones.
3. Clean the ICV by spraying carburetor cleaner inside the ICV through the hose necks. Rotate the inner restriction valve, either by gently using a screwdriver, or by shaking the ICV body, then spray again. You may blow air to dry it, or simply wait a few minutes.
4. Clean the throttle bodies. Soak a rag with carburetor cleaner. Gently open the butterflies by pushing on the actuator level by hand and hold it like that, and then with the other hand grab the rag and clean inside each throttle body, one by one. Careful not to drop anything down the intake!
Refit everything back.
Mind that this procedure may not solve your stalling issue. The culprit may be somewhere else (e.g. tired lambda sensors, or God knows what else), but at least you eliminate a possible cause with virtually no cost (except some time). And you'll have clean ICV and throttle bodies, which you'll admit as worth doing after seeing all that carbon built-up that comes out.
I've had exactly the same problem ever since I got my ///M almost a year ago. Only happens on average about once a month and only when coasting to a junction or just after filling up.
A bit annoying but I've put about 10k miles on the car and hasn't got any worse.
Might try and clean the ICV when I get the time.
A bit annoying but I've put about 10k miles on the car and hasn't got any worse.
Might try and clean the ICV when I get the time.
right. Caught it on sunday after a good balst for a couple of hours: coming into straffic light, clutch down second gear costing and then ding no more engine... retarted no probs at all. Bizzar. Does not even judder or make a strange noise, it just suddenly dies on you. 
Would like to get to the bottom of this.
Would like to get to the bottom of this.
My zed has started to undershoot the idle speed if you blip the throttle at rest.
It also sounds like it stumbles if you blip the throttle, there is a bit of a delay before the engine revs up and you hear it in the sound of the exhaust (revs drop slightly as if the engine doesnt fire and then it revs up). I mentioned this to the head of the service dept at my local main dealer when taking the car in for its oil service and MOT today.
I thought it might have been a exhaust leak as its been feeling a bit flat at the lower end of the rev range. Apparently no leaks and emmissions are fine.
Anyway the technician kindly had a look into this on the computer and they are keeping the patient in overnight to fit a new air meter in the morning under AUC warrantee. Apparently its not working right and they say the car is not pulling correctly - no engine warning lights have been shown so its not an obvious fault to the owner. MPG is also not great an averaging 22mpg.
I will update the thread to let you know if it helps my symptoms or MPG. For reference the car is March 2007 build with 33k miles on the clock.
It also sounds like it stumbles if you blip the throttle, there is a bit of a delay before the engine revs up and you hear it in the sound of the exhaust (revs drop slightly as if the engine doesnt fire and then it revs up). I mentioned this to the head of the service dept at my local main dealer when taking the car in for its oil service and MOT today.
I thought it might have been a exhaust leak as its been feeling a bit flat at the lower end of the rev range. Apparently no leaks and emmissions are fine.
Anyway the technician kindly had a look into this on the computer and they are keeping the patient in overnight to fit a new air meter in the morning under AUC warrantee. Apparently its not working right and they say the car is not pulling correctly - no engine warning lights have been shown so its not an obvious fault to the owner. MPG is also not great an averaging 22mpg.
I will update the thread to let you know if it helps my symptoms or MPG. For reference the car is March 2007 build with 33k miles on the clock.
Adam D said:
I have the same, mentioned previously on here. I had the Master Tech look at the car, he recommended valve clearance checks, this was done but no improvement. We then checked the Z4M they happened to have in AUC and it was exactly the same.. Seems either common or normal?
Its fixed... the AFM was replaced under warantee and its awesome to drive now and has lost the flat feeling. Engine pulls very enthusiastically to redline, downside is that in fixing it the car sounds a lot more refined and doesnt pop when the revs are dropping - maybe I need to try harder :evil:
Too early to tell on the MPG front however the numbers are looking a bit better on the onboard computer so far.
Too early to tell on the MPG front however the numbers are looking a bit better on the onboard computer so far.
I did a 300 mile trip yesterday and averaged 28.6 mpg peaking at 30mpg, that's quite an improvement however whilst it's cured the stumble when pulling away I still sometimes get the revs dipping below idle speed and then bouncing back to natural idle when the clutch is pushed in when shunting about/parking.
Annoying but at least one sensor appears to have been fixed, I'm thinking, idle speed valve(clean or replace) fuel pressure check and exhaust oxygen sensors for the next suspects as they dictate closed loop fuelling. Coil packs and ignition should cause stumbles at other rpm but if anyone know better please advise
.
Also I have heard of problems with throttle potentiometers in the foot pedal and throttle butterflies but that's a computer job to diagnose and I would hope they looked for that.
The air meter is £230 from Eurocar parts and looks a simple fix yourself but without a computer it's difficult to diagnose it.
Adam
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Annoying but at least one sensor appears to have been fixed, I'm thinking, idle speed valve(clean or replace) fuel pressure check and exhaust oxygen sensors for the next suspects as they dictate closed loop fuelling. Coil packs and ignition should cause stumbles at other rpm but if anyone know better please advise
. Also I have heard of problems with throttle potentiometers in the foot pedal and throttle butterflies but that's a computer job to diagnose and I would hope they looked for that.
The air meter is £230 from Eurocar parts and looks a simple fix yourself but without a computer it's difficult to diagnose it.
Adam
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right. A posrche tech guy who works on my Z told me it was most likely the thingy that told the engine to run slow and not stall (cant translate from french sorry) but will let you know next month.
merci!I'd be interested in a how to on cleaning the idle control valve and engine breathers - its been overfilling for a while with the AFM fault so probably needs some tlc does anybody know of one?
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does anybody know of one? ---
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