Squeaking/Dry Throw-out arm/bearing?

I use the micrometer click style and have had them for going on 10 years now (really need to have them checked but never seem to get around to it). Every professional mechanic I know uses the click style as well so I have never worried about it.

IF you use universal joints on the torque wrench, your torque will not be accurate at all and at that point might as well used a regular wrench to guess at the torque.

The engine mounts are on the cross member so lowering the cross member will let the engine (and transmission) come down to the floor. Now I don't think you need to drop the engine all the way out, just enough to make it easier to get at the top bolts and give some extra wiggle room for the transmission.

However, I don't think it will be necessary to lower the engine at all. There are several youtube videos of clutch swaps in e36 and e46 frames http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIf5nbjFFJI, none of which seem to need lowering of the engine. It seems that what others do is just use really long extensions to put the socket on the bolt, then work the wrench handle out at the back of the transmission.
 
Upon further research it seems that as long as you don't buy a cheapie the micrometer ones will be fine. I'd much prefer to pay for middle of the range tools that I know will last me a long time than cheap throwaway crap. Norbar seems to have a good name and is not badly priced. I'd have to get a 1-20Nm and a 20-100Nm (while a higher maximum would be preferable, the 150Nm unit has a minimum of 30Nm, so I'd have a 10Nm gap in the range).

You're right about the way to torque the bell housing bolts. I'll pick up a nice long extension then. Indeed the TIS instructions don't require dropping the engine so it is possible.
You know I was really surprised how small the gearbox itself is! Once you understand just how much is the bell housing the gearbox itself is tiny.

Oh I also noticed a small bit of oil collected on the bottom of the gearbox around and on the gearbox drain plug while I was under the car. Couldn't see where it was coming from though :/
Surprised the dealer mechanic didn't notice it when she was in there a few weeks ago and use it to get more money out of me...

Oh one other thing: while I don't plan on replacing the clutch, should I at least replace the throw out bearing? Just had a look though and they're not cheap either. Part number 21517521471 around $45 from online parts sources (plus postage).
 
There has been a development: I got in the car this morning, pushed in the clutch and lo and behold no squeak! Completely silent and also actually noticeably smoother to operate. I drove to work (15 mins) and after turning the engine off I checked again. Much to my delight I found that the squeak was still gone!

I did do a 2 hour round trip yesterday so I'm guessing that the extended period of heat has perhaps helped distribute the grease as required. Of course I'll keep an ear out for its return, but for now I'm a very happy person!

With one annoying noise gone I know what my next project will be: sound deadening the doors to get a nicer closing sound!
 
Mangozac said:
There has been a development: I got in the car this morning, pushed in the clutch and lo and behold no squeak! Completely silent and also actually noticeably smoother to operate. I drove to work (15 mins) and after turning the engine off I checked again. Much to my delight I found that the squeak was still gone!

I did do a 2 hour round trip yesterday so I'm guessing that the extended period of heat has perhaps helped distribute the grease as required. Of course I'll keep an ear out for its return, but for now I'm a very happy person!

With one annoying noise gone I know what my next project will be: sound deadening the doors to get a nicer closing sound!
Click to expand...

Really?! :thumbsup:

So just spray grease did the trick? You mentioned you couldn't get it on the pivot, but you sprayed the other end? I'm trying to get an idea of what all you sprayed so I can give it a shot! :D
 
Yep just spray lithium grease. I gave a good squirt of it onto the throw out arm where the slave cylinder contacts it and then also used my finger to bend the straw around to spray parallel to the arm. I gave it a fair squirt so it's probably pretty messy in there now) and it probably got on the shaft and the other end of the arm. It definitely wouldn't have gotten on the point where the arm contacts the throwout bearing though...

Give it a go! :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom