It’s not the first topic about 108 refurbishment and I have done few searches, but still not clear how to proceed.
I have got myself a set of slightly corroded 108 alloys. It seems they were refurbished before but without being splitted, so the bolts themselves were very tight.
For future reference, the method that ultimately worked for me was:
1) remove tyres
2) spray the bolts with penetrating fluid and leave for 30 minutes
3) stick an M8 spline bit in the bolt and hit it few times with a hammer to break off tread corrosion
4) use a heat gun to heat the outside of the rim around the bolt until the inside is too hot to touch
5) use an impact wrench with GOOD quality M8 spline bit (I used Facom)
Initially I didn't follow my own advice, and I ended up with one broken stud (too much torque) and one rounded off bolt (crap Sealey spline bit). So my questions are as follows:
- How to remove the stud? Should I even attempt to get a stud extractor (what type?) or leave it to professionals? If so, who in Berkshire/Hampshire area could remove it?
- As above, but for the rounded head, at work we have a machine shop with a pillar drill and apparently you can drill titanium with a carbide tip at low speed with plenty of cutting oil. Any other advice? What size extractor/drill bit to use on an M7 bolt?
- Once removed, I am happy to tap it (and all other holes) with an M7x1.0 tap, but should I do it before or after refurbishment?
- Maybe linked but when I take it to the refurbisher, should I give them the bolts to insert before the rim is coated to prevent the threads getting painted? If so, should they use the BBS bolts or generic M7 bolts to avoid getting my bolts painted (for the second time).
I plan to take them to City Wheels in Birmingham to take advantage of the £20/wheel offer. They said once split, they can do the 108s, but does anyone has any recommendations closer to my area around the price?
Thanks, and I hope this topic proves useful in the future
I have got myself a set of slightly corroded 108 alloys. It seems they were refurbished before but without being splitted, so the bolts themselves were very tight.
For future reference, the method that ultimately worked for me was:
1) remove tyres
2) spray the bolts with penetrating fluid and leave for 30 minutes
3) stick an M8 spline bit in the bolt and hit it few times with a hammer to break off tread corrosion
4) use a heat gun to heat the outside of the rim around the bolt until the inside is too hot to touch
5) use an impact wrench with GOOD quality M8 spline bit (I used Facom)
Initially I didn't follow my own advice, and I ended up with one broken stud (too much torque) and one rounded off bolt (crap Sealey spline bit). So my questions are as follows:
- How to remove the stud? Should I even attempt to get a stud extractor (what type?) or leave it to professionals? If so, who in Berkshire/Hampshire area could remove it?
- As above, but for the rounded head, at work we have a machine shop with a pillar drill and apparently you can drill titanium with a carbide tip at low speed with plenty of cutting oil. Any other advice? What size extractor/drill bit to use on an M7 bolt?
- Once removed, I am happy to tap it (and all other holes) with an M7x1.0 tap, but should I do it before or after refurbishment?
- Maybe linked but when I take it to the refurbisher, should I give them the bolts to insert before the rim is coated to prevent the threads getting painted? If so, should they use the BBS bolts or generic M7 bolts to avoid getting my bolts painted (for the second time).
I plan to take them to City Wheels in Birmingham to take advantage of the £20/wheel offer. They said once split, they can do the 108s, but does anyone has any recommendations closer to my area around the price?
Thanks, and I hope this topic proves useful in the future
