Speakers.

F

flybobbie

Elite
 Stourbridge
I bought some 2nd hand woofers and fitted. I just wired them in series with existing foot speakers.
Awaiting these non standard 8 inch covers. Only one's i could find.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274668858755?itmmeta=01HYY1PK231PKCJ9VPKVXRPSD9&hash=item3ff38a2d83:g:sJQAAOSwHrRgGOvs&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABIKvqKsYMji0fwGWP7--MeZwj6juWEPVG8%2FbPeIeKX1dCIzBKInuas2RWPufML%2FSYUAe8TKPFv%2F8Tsd5xp4rk3oWo5BH502KH4g8Vfzx2VHmYFy2%2BmoDhVbfcW7coHkLWqNDPHLo6FOqAIiv%2BVKwqcVMUOn4%2FyWhBzV%2BahHl4WdL2W9so2bpX5XScwRk90Gb4lnem2zt1DNTfLqpreQNaaLMOATDqS7Sak%2BDuA%2BWlT160k4uzKs9WpvsEU5Hs5qe4FaNPyPMSFisIs3sA%2BqMIK9%2F%2BYAXDcbPnPTLMHhe9jMRh%2BcE6NCLow4HWOU0PcfJcOQugVtX1gQR8RR1Bm9ImFyTNt19x7icW%2FUdpKSHlC7vt%2FuCcPyFvrmvgGtgqNhKhZw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMkrHawfdj
Also bought some of those Chinese BO speakers about £25 each, cheap lookalikes.
So i'm impressed over the basic set up i had.
Ordered another pair BO for rears (and hoping Evri don't lose them again for a week).
Already fitted some Maplin tweeters years ago.
 
I’ve been contemplating swapping out the main door speakers and foot ones with some of those “B&O” same same but different speakers from Ali Express.

I purchased on a whim some of the tweeters from AliExpress for the missing door/mirror speakers and whilst I’m no audiophile and listened to too much DnB in my years they sound great.
 
Yes you could spend a fortune with amps etc. But for just simple enjoyment the cheap speakers are fine, just ordered another 2 for the rears.
Does seem anything is better than the standard speakers.
I can now turn down the treble and bass...as i now have treble and bass!

The sub woofers are appearing now 2nd hand market, picked up 2 for £80 and fitted. Some cutting of bulkhead trim required and await some covers.
 
Yeah trying to find the subwoofer grills was an absolute PITA!! Took me a while and I probably paid well over the odds for them, but they look nice :D I even had to import one of them from Florida. None of the bulkhead panels had them still installed, so couldn't go down that route.
 
What speakers did you all install to replace the front footwell subs? Did you have to buy adapter plates due to the strange BMW 3 point fixing. Or were they compatible already? Thx
 
simnew said:
What speakers did you all install to replace the front footwell subs? Did you have to buy adapter plates due to the strange BMW 3 point fixing. Or were they compatible already? Thx
Click to expand...

The footwell speakers are woofers not subs…I fitted aftermarket speakers and made an adapter ring out of 5 ply ..
 
I've not changed my footwell woofers, didn't see the point because it's the same part number for the standard and the 676 (Business package) ones with only the 677 (Professional package) being different. Also nobody makes a plug-n-play option for them, so you'd have to make something up, so I couldn't be bothered for no real return. They work perfectly with my 676 retrofit :thumbsup:
 
Can say that with swapping the standard footwell woofers to Hertz 165.1 fitted on own made adapters as described here on the forum it was a noticeable boost of “body” to the sound quality. I have a 676 system and did not change anything else (yet) though I did install sound deadening in both doors and the area of the footwell speakers.
Even though I’m happy with this boost (specifically nice for driving top open), I do recon the quality still is poor compared to what I prefer.
Currently deciding I should go for mids+tweater replacement first or go for the amp upgrade (considering match up8 to work with standard wiring or go for up10 and install extra wires to one of the footwell speakers).
 
Wolter said:
Can say that with swapping the standard footwell woofers to Hertz 165.1 fitted on own made adapters as described here on the forum it was a noticeable boost of “body” to the sound quality. I have a 676 system and did not change anything else (yet) though I did install sound deadening in both doors and the area of the footwell speakers.
Even though I’m happy with this boost (specifically nice for driving top open), I do recon the quality still is poor compared to what I prefer.
Currently deciding I should go for mids+tweater replacement first or go for the amp upgrade (considering match up8 to work with standard wiring or go for up10 and install extra wires to one of the footwell speakers).
Click to expand...

The core problem is the 676 amp doesn’t have the power to drive a pair of after market woofers…a DSP/amp would be the next most beneficial step…with the DSP yiu can then tune better either the remaining speakers or especially any new ones be they bmw copies or pukka upgrades..
 
B21 said:
The core problem is the 676 amp doesn’t have the power to drive a pair of after market woofers…a DSP/amp would be the next most beneficial step…with the DSP yiu can then tune better either the remaining speakers or especially any new ones be they bmw copies or pukka upgrades..
Click to expand...

Thanks, that confirms my own thoughts regarding way forward.
I prefer using all available speakers.
I don't want separate amps for sub woofers.
Audio shop advices me (when going for the up8) to unpair the woofers and re-use centre speaker wiring since centre speaker has its value but less important then switching woofers from mono to stereo. Besides that, (4 ohm) woofers in parallel probably requires one of the subwoofer connections of the amp to work properly leaving one subwoofer output short for the (2 ohm) stereo wired sub woofers in the back...
With this advice and taking into account my own preferences mentioned above I would go for the 10 channel amp and unpair the woofers.
Such amp would probably be more compatible with future usage in case I want to transfer the amp to a different car.

Any pros/cons/experiences/advices to proceed with 8 or 10 channel amp?

Also (for next steps and not to hijack speaker threat for amp discussion); what options and experiences are there for specifically direct fit upgrades for the mids and tweater locations?
 
Wolter said:
B21 said:
The core problem is the 676 amp doesn’t have the power to drive a pair of after market woofers…a DSP/amp would be the next most beneficial step…with the DSP yiu can then tune better either the remaining speakers or especially any new ones be they bmw copies or pukka upgrades..
Click to expand...

Thanks, that confirms my own thoughts regarding way forward.
I prefer using all available speakers.
I don't want separate amps for sub woofers.
Audio shop advices me (when going for the up8) to unpair the woofers and re-use centre speaker wiring since centre speaker has its value but less important then switching woofers from mono to stereo. Besides that, (4 ohm) woofers in parallel probably requires one of the subwoofer connections of the amp to work properly leaving one subwoofer output short for the (2 ohm) stereo wired sub woofers in the back...
With this advice and taking into account my own preferences mentioned above I would go for the 10 channel amp and unpair the woofers.
Such amp would probably be more compatible with future usage in case I want to transfer the amp to a different car.

Any pros/cons/experiences/advices to proceed with 8 or 10 channel amp?

Also (for next steps and not to hijack speaker threat for amp discussion); what options and experiences are there for specifically direct fit upgrades for the mids and tweater locations?
Click to expand...

Match 10 DSP would be the logical choice..you can drive all 9 physical channels then..one spare channel ..no great crime

The woofers are wired in series near the amp bulkhead so unpicking that connection and splicing into the harness there is easy..

Pity the amp doesn’t have 4 high power channels but best to leave the two high power channels to the subs..

You’ll need a umix type mic to do the RTA and set up the DSP to suit the speakers and your tastes

Personally I would go either with the Eton set up for the bmw or the Audison…both work well…the AF Match version was less successful..
 
Hopefully enough on topic [ref]flybobbie[/ref], Ive just acquired some new AudioFischer subs for behind the seats and have a few questions about fitting. (I have the 676 stereo so subs are in place already, they need replacing)

- How long did it take, give or take? I'm thinking of doing it 'the simple car guy' way, which seems least bothersome - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lbLSEAbvQY (relevant part starts at 15:40). but your experience, no matter how you did it would be valuable to know.

- Can you close the roof mid fit? I don't have a garage so at the mercy of the English weather, and can't leave it open overnight if it takes longer than a day.

- Did you add any sound deadening at the same time? I have some from a previous endeavour so can use it if it helps.

If anyone else here has experience of the above, I'm happy to hear of your experiences, good and bad.

Thanks!

Chris
 
You can get to the existing subs by undoing the rear card that holds the grills only at the tops and sides..I'd imagine its 2-3 hours min to get in and 1-2 hours to get out..

If you want to add sound absorbing mat then double the time.

You can open and close the roof at will during that program.

Those are minimum times IMHO

New subs without further amplification /DSP processing will be largely wasted.
 
Thanks [ref]B21[/ref], thats exactly what I needed to know. I've got the Match up 8 Amp (rewired for the woofers, from the other thread we were chatting in) and after another go with the DSP this weekend, I figured its time to sort the subs. The OEM sound much better with more power, but they are still a bit lacking. I'm not expecting a massive change, but right now it's the weak part of the set up for sure.

Not so bad with some genres / sources, absolutely bloody awful with others! May as well be using a kazoo with streamed radio.

Almost completely off topic, since I have the Match 8 (not Match 10), I'm gonna play with taking out the centre channel and diverting it to the footwell woofer. Given the amp has a 'enhanced centre' setting I'm hoping dropping the real centre channel wont have too much impact there, and improve the overall sound. Playing around at this point though - all part of the fun...

I hope it's sunny this weekend!
 
You need to use a mic to do RTA to adjust for the crap quality of the OE speakers at some point..

I wasn’t sure on the centre stage effect but I really like it now ..paradoxically it gives a much better stage than the simple left /right..

Although I now hear things on tracks that initially I think are bits falling off the car..

Both the woofers and subs need a lot of power once you’re underway with the roof down..wind/road noise completely over powers them otherwise..

With two power hungry subs and two power hungry woofers plus 5 other channels to feed its a struggle with an 8 channel amp…I bit the bullet and used an alpine 500w jobby to drive the subs in the end..
 
I used the mic for the timing at the weekend, and it made a huge difference. Only the one built into the laptop, but even that was noticeable improvement.

The speakers aren't OEM, which helps - but its a hodge podge of Crunch for the door / rears, Hertz woofers, but have AF sat in a box for both door and rears, just been waiting for the weather for a tear down!

Not a bad set up as is, but matched speakers will no doubt give a better performce. I was quite happy with the current set up for some time (with no amp too), just decided to upgrade because why not.
 
Braveatom said:
I used the mic for the timing at the weekend, and it made a huge difference. Only the one built into the laptop, but even that was noticeable improvement.

The speakers aren't OEM, which helps - but its a hodge podge of Crunch for the door / rears, Hertz woofers, but have AF sat in a box for both door and rears, just been waiting for the weather for a tear down!

Not a bad set up as is, but matched speakers will no doubt give a better performce. I was quite happy with the current set up for some time (with no amp too), just decided to upgrade because why not.
Click to expand...

All noted…a decent Drayton mic is around £100 but at some point you’ll probably perceive the need / benefit…

As long as they are decent speakers and almost anything is best than any of the 676/677 speakers and you use RTA you’ll get great results..

It tends to be evolution over time..

I’ll revisit my tweaks n tunes over the winter when I do my android head unit..

I didn’t get on well with AF for the doors..

Enjoy the journey..
 
My setup now, everything sounds like it's in a sports hall.
Now put one of the old door speakers in the missing front under windshield position connected to right side.
 
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