Some questions for a mechanic...

Worcester_spoon

Worcester_spoon

Senior member
 Basingstoke, Hampshire
I am not mechanical, but am keen to do stuff myself, so I have a couple of questions for someone who knows stuff :thumbsup:

1) when disconnecting the battery, black or red cable first? Same for reconnecting?
2) will disconnecting the battery for 30 mins (I'm doing a wheel change) affect anything like the radio or trip computer? Do I need to make sure I have the radio code first?
3) is a standard trolley jack ok to lift the car - sure I read somewhere that a standard trolley jack won't fit under the car?
4) anything to look out for with using axel stands? Where is best to place them front and back?
5) with axel stands, do I jack one side first and slip the axel stand in and then do the same on the other side, or do I need to somehow lift for the front or back of the car as a whole (and how on earth would I do that)?
6) going to paint my hubs - someone mentioned greasing them before putting the wheels back on so paint doesn't stick - where do I need to grease and what should I use?

Sorry for all the questions - once I learn I promise to share the knowledge with other non mechs who want to have a go, so consider any advice as simply passing on knowledge for future generations :)
 
I'm not a mechanic either but change my wheels twice a year. I'm happy to be corrected if someone knows better:

1) black (negative) first
2) you don't need to disconnect the battery for changing wheels
3) if your car is lowered, you will probably need a low jack, if not should be fine. Any problems drive onto a plank of wood then jack it up.
4) any solid metal part on the underside, be careful when releasing the jack to check that the axle stand is stable
5) one side at a time
6) copper grease any contact parts
 
Disconnect the black cable first then red. When reconnecting, red cable first, then black.
not sure about radio, not needed a code for mine but resets trip mileage mpg average speed etc.
standard trolley jack usually just about fits. I have driven on to a brick before to solve the issue. Jack one corner up, place axel stand somewhere strong ie chassis leg.
copper grease everywhere the wheel touches the hub! Around the wheel bolt holes and the centre lip.
 
1) ground (black) off first, ground on last. If you're just disconnecting the battery then it's alright to leave the positive (red) on.
2) probably will need to reset the windows, unsure of the radio code. If you're changing wheels, disconnecting the battery really isn't needed. Just reset the tyre warning system when the new wheels are on.
3) I personally use a standard trolley though it is too high for the car. I made a ramp for more clearance to get around that issue.
4) Usually on the jacking point or a control arm.
5) I jack one side and will put the stand under that way. I've never actually looked for a centre jacking point.
6) I think they may have meant some copper grease where the wheel mounts to the hub?

edit: looks like I got beaten to it while typing up! :lol:
 
Great, thanks people. And I should have said, it's a steering wheel change!

Will let you know how I get on, but some great advice here, especially around using a ramp so a standard jack fits.

Couple of follow io questions - will details of resetting the tyre pressure gauge and the widows be shown in e drivers manual? If not, I'll look it up online/on here.

Wish me luck...
 
Worcester_spoon said:
Great, thanks people. And I should have said, it's a steering wheel change!

Will let you know how I get on, but some great advice here, especially around using a ramp so a standard jack fits.

Couple of follow io questions - will details of resetting the tyre pressure gauge and the widows be shown in e drivers manual? If not, I'll look it up online/on here.

Wish me luck...
Click to expand...
the tyre pressure reset is just a case of holding down the button until the light on the dash turns from red to yellow. Switch off ignition and back on again and it's done.
Can't remember the exact process with the windows but theres a few threads on here about it :)
 
To reset auto window function (from memory):

With ignition in position 1.....

Wind them all the way down.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them down about 4 inches.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them all the way down again.

Should now be reset. :D
 
DR-Z said:
To reset auto window function (from memory):

With ignition in position 1.....

Wind them all the way down.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them down about 4 inches.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them all the way down again.

Should now be reset. :D
Click to expand...

Not heard that one before!
 
Sim_Simma said:
DR-Z said:
To reset auto window function (from memory):

With ignition in position 1.....

Wind them all the way down.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them down about 4 inches.
Then wind them all the way up.
Then wind them all the way down again.

Should now be reset. :D
Click to expand...

Not heard that one before!
Click to expand...


Wind them down, hold button down 5 secs then wind back up
Simple's
 
Sim_Simma said:
Worcester_spoon said:
Great, thanks people. And I should have said, it's a steering wheel change!

Will let you know how I get on, but some great advice here, especially around using a ramp so a standard jack fits.

Couple of follow io questions - will details of resetting the tyre pressure gauge and the widows be shown in e drivers manual? If not, I'll look it up online/on here.

Wish me luck...
Click to expand...
the tyre pressure reset is just a case of holding down the button until the light on the dash turns from red to yellow. Switch off ignition and back on again and it's done.
Can't remember the exact process with the windows but theres a few threads on here about it :)
Click to expand...

Im pretty sure you are meant to drive the car after pressing the tyre rest button a short distsnce to rest properly.
 
.[/quote]
Im pretty sure you are meant to drive the car after pressing the tyre rest button a short distsnce to rest properly.[/quote]

You could be right!
 
I seem to recall from other threads that you need to disconnect the battery for at least 20-30 minutes before doing anything that disturbs an airbag but I might have misremembered...
 
BMWZ4MC said:
I seem to recall from other threads that you need to disconnect the battery for at least 20-30 minutes before doing anything that disturbs an airbag but I might have misremembered...
Click to expand...

Correct :thumbsup: good rule of thumb is 30 mins to be sure. I know some people get over excited and want to get on with it but it's rather an expensive mistake to rush it.
 
Happy to be proved wrong I'm not sure that you should put copper slip on the mating face between wheel and hub. A key factor that holds the wheel in place is friction between the wheel and the hub and copper slip will reduce that massively.
 
tertius said:
Happy to be proved wrong I'm not sure that you should put copper slip on the mating face between wheel and hub. A key factor that holds the wheel in place is friction between the wheel and the hub and copper slip will reduce that massively.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find a lot of people use cooper grease when refitting wheels because they can seize to the hub and it's a nightmare to try and get the wheel off when that happens. Infact due to the wheel being seized to the car when my dad had a blow out at the side of the A1 he couldn't get the wheel off and had to wait on BMW assist to help and even then it took the guy 45 mins. The bolts which hold the wheel on should be properly torqued and this is more than enough to keep a wheel on. However they should always be checked regularly.
 
Angie4m said:
tertius said:
Happy to be proved wrong I'm not sure that you should put copper slip on the mating face between wheel and hub. A key factor that holds the wheel in place is friction between the wheel and the hub and copper slip will reduce that massively.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find a lot of people use cooper grease when refitting wheels because they can seize to the hub and it's a nightmare to try and get the wheel off when that happens. Infact due to the wheel being seized to the car when my dad had a blow out at the side of the A1 he couldn't get the wheel off and had to wait on BMW assist to help and even then it took the guy 45 mins. The bolts which hold the wheel on should be properly torqued and this is more than enough to keep a wheel on. However they should always be checked regularly.
Click to expand...

Hmm, well a quick google suggests I was right (though there are certainly a lot of conflicting opinions) e.g. From the Range Rover manual:

On alloy wheels, use an approved anti-seize compound to treat the wheel mounting bore. This will minimise any tendency for adhesion between the wheel and the bore.
Ensure that no compound comes into contact with the brake components or the flat mounting surfaces of the wheel.

And I really don't think wheel bolts are meant to take serious load in shear, they load in tension to hold the wheel flat to the hub.

To stop the wheel seizing on I think cleaning off any corrosion and regular maintenance is the key.
 
tertius said:
Angie4m said:
tertius said:
Happy to be proved wrong I'm not sure that you should put copper slip on the mating face between wheel and hub. A key factor that holds the wheel in place is friction between the wheel and the hub and copper slip will reduce that massively.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find a lot of people use cooper grease when refitting wheels because they can seize to the hub and it's a nightmare to try and get the wheel off when that happens. Infact due to the wheel being seized to the car when my dad had a blow out at the side of the A1 he couldn't get the wheel off and had to wait on BMW assist to help and even then it took the guy 45 mins. The bolts which hold the wheel on should be properly torqued and this is more than enough to keep a wheel on. However they should always be checked regularly.
Click to expand...

Hmm, well a quick google suggests I was right (though there are certainly a lot of conflicting opinions) e.g. From the Range Rover manual:

On alloy wheels, use an approved anti-seize compound to treat the wheel mounting bore. This will minimise any tendency for adhesion between the wheel and the bore.
Ensure that no compound comes into contact with the brake components or the flat mounting surfaces of the wheel.

And I really don't think wheel bolts are meant to take serious load in shear, they load in tension to hold the wheel flat to the hub.

To stop the wheel seizing on I think cleaning off any corrosion and regular maintenance is the key.
Click to expand...

I agree.

If a corrosion at the wheel/hub mating face prevents removal of the wheel, slightly loosening the wheel bolts and rolling back and forth will usually free things up. I had to do this to get a rusty space-saver spare off my E46.
 
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