Its all about light, where it is, what direction and how you use it.
I love shooting into the sun but you have to combat the silhouette by filling that area either by bracketing the exposure or by adding light with flash. You can only bring so much back with post production, have to get it right in camera.
Your first shot is pointing into the sun, so the side of the car is under exposed. The second shot your doing the opposite so the car has a nice exposure and has a nice bit of colour. Although the iphone X is an ok camera there isnt really any creative control so you have to work it to your advantage. Phones have tiny sensors so their light gathering capability is not very good, so your best shooting in good light, otherwise stick it on the HDR function it does a good job of not looking too grundgy and it makes sure that the highlights arent blown out and the shadows arent underexposed by taking multiple images and stitching them together. Its not a bad starting point.
Because the sensor is small its depth of field (how much of the image is in focus) is large so generally everything in your scene back to front will be in focus. Therefore use that to your advantage get to a nice vista something that the car draws your eye into or the car is the focal point.
It is also about the composition, cars dont look right when you shoot at eye level, get low or get high and work the angle. It also helps to add some depth of field if your in a situation (not really possible with the iphone) where you have a nice backdrop add more if not add less to DOF specifically on the car. I also like to add movement, it adds a new dynamic.
As others have pointed out play with the angle but in your example you shot it right because there are verticals in the image. Turning it sideways looks stupid because the trees are not straight. Verticals and horizontals are photography 101, keep horizons straight keep verticals like trees straight because they not only make people feel strange looking at them they dont look natural.
For example large depth of field
IMG_4751-Edit by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Shallow depth of field
BMW Z4M Coupe, Silver Grey, CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
With a large dof you get the image back to front in focus, with a shallow depth of field you blur the background and focus specifically on the subject.
Lenses are another topic as they all do different things. Wide angles distort the subject and create distance between the subject and the distance. You can tell in this image as the front of the car looks more bulbous.
BMW Z4M Coupe, Silver Grey, CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Telephoto lenses to the opposite the compress perspective so bring the background closer to the subject make things that are far behind the subject look closer. 35mm is roughly eye length so is a nice perspective for subjects to look natural.
24mm - see how shooting close to the subject and using a wide lens makes the background looks miles away behind the subject. (in the image 2 below you can see how close the background is but in this image looks miles away.)
BMW Z4M Coupe CSL Wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
vs 140mm by using a longer lens it compresses the perspective so the background looks closer and the car looks more in proportion. You can use this to your advantage if you have a busy background use a long lens and reduce the dof to blow the background out and the fussy background can melt away like the trees in this image.
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Post production is also an extensive tool and is an art and learning curve in its own right. A lot of cameras will shoot an image which is fairly flat, this is so it keeps the maxmium information to use in post production. I only shoot raw and your phone will do soon. I spend a long time in post perfecting my images to my own taste and style. Anyone can download lightroom for mobile, snapseed etc and they are excellent. Have a play and see what the sliders do, use the crop tool creatively add vignettes etc
I like to edit mine to be a bright and punchy as possible. The idea is to work on the exposure first, get the image looking true to life, use the shadow slider to bring back detail and the highlights to bring back information in the sky. Then change the overal exposure to suit. Use the black and white sliders to add contrast. After that use the white balance to get the tone of the image the way you like so cooler or warmer. After you get the image neutralised to the way you like there are some tools that can add instant appeal to an image like clarity. It can make a flat image look contrasty and gritty without too much work or moving it the other way can add more soft effects which look great when you are shooting into the sun. Vibrance slider is one of my favourites and tend to push that quite far. At the end sharpen it, finish it off.
Other effects like split toning can make a flat afternoon image look like its late afternoon by making the shadows warmer etc There is a lot to play with. You can experiment with local adjustments and paint exposure into areas, I especially like doing this after shooting into the sun as it adds a dreamy look and accentuates the backlit scene.
I could go on all day and in the past have written small essays on how to photograph your car. If you like PM me and I will do my best to answer your questions.
IMO best thing to do is to look at others, see what they have done, replicate it and add your own spin then get more creative. Just about practice. Then as you grow and become more competent break ruels do your own thing and create your own style. Thats the nice thing about the forum there are lots of good photographers and the monthly competition makes you get out and shoot some images.
Before you look at my images below, ive been shooting professionally for over 10 years and it does take time to learn. I also use advanced often expensive equipment and some of the images arent easy to make. I use wireless triggers with flash and also battery operated studio lights so its not really a fair comparison as most of my work is a photographic shoot not a casual photograph. Often hours are spent scouting locations and figuring out where the sun will be and at what time etc etc
To a point you can do this yourself, best time to shoot is the golden hour because you get the nice colours. But if you have a mono colour car like silver, white, black grey etc one of my favorite times is when the sun is at its highest like noon as is acts like a massive studio light.
BMW Z4M Coupe with CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
This image for example was aided with flash but with the sun so high in the sky look at how it sculpts the bodywork of the car. Its not a trick just using the situation to your advantage. It was so bright and the car so shiny that I had to compensate as the rest of the scene was super dark as it was so bright so I had to add light to overpower the shadows created by the sun. I was laying on the ground with a long lens to compress perspective and had two lights on either side of the car on triggers.
On the other hand I like to shoot a lot in available light just take the camera and get some great results and there is no reason anyone cant get similar results.
Heres a few of my faves, I cant post a lot of client work because when work for them its sold to them and not my property. Still shoot a lot of personal stuff tho
Apologies for the amount of images but there is a good amount across the board in lots of different situations that can be replicated.
Stuff with studio lights or rigs or shooting out the back of another car mostly out on location:
BMW Z4M Coupe by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Coupe, Silver Grey, CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Coupe, Silver Grey, CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Coupe CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Coupe CSL front wheel by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Coupe, Ulswater Boat house, Cumbria by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M Dials/interior, strobes by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW Z4M CSL wheel strobist by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
All of this stuff is just shot in available light
This is one of the first shoots i did about 11 years ago
BMW E46 M3, Alston, Hartside, Cumbria, CSL wheels by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
From the Eurotrips and these were shot for Porsche Post magazine. All of these were shot in available light as we were on the go for 10 days straight and just when the situation came around.
Porsche 911s and BMW Z4M, Route 500 stop, Mumelsee, Germany by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche 991, 911 50th Anniversary Edition Coupe by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche Boxster, St.Moritz to Susten Pass, Switzerland by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Susten Pass, Switzerland by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche 911, Sustens Pass, Switzerland by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche 911 Carrera S, Malcesine, Lake Garda, Italy by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche 911 Targa, Scenic mountain pass road, Tiefencastel to Savognin, Switzerland by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Furka Pass, Gold Finger Point, Z&P Eurotrip UK to Monaco 2017 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Few from the race meets I photograph
Shot these for Jaguars Art of Performance tour
Jaguar - Art of Performance Tour by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Jaguar - Art of Performance Tour by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Jaguar - Art of Performance Tour by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Jaguar - Art of Performance Tour by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
No.27 Nissan R91CK (1991) (Nova Engineering) Silverstone Classics 2016 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
N0. 78 1965 2.0 Porsche 911 Classic GT Cars (pre '66) Silverstone Classics 2016 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
BMW E30 M3, No.83, Tim Harvey, Silverstone Classics 2015 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Porsche 962, BP Leyton House, Group C, twilight race, Silverstone Classics 2015 by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Sideways Action, Historic Formula 1, Silverstone Classics 25th Anniversary by
Tom Scott, on Flickr
Hope that helps
