SMG Help

[patriot66]

No , it's underneath the gearbox. There is a heat shield to remove and then a cover plate. That's the easy bit. The pump is on a a bracket with torx screws that are fiddly to get at. The motors earth cable is also fiddly - I changed it later for a hex bolt. The positive cable unclips from the mount and pulls apart. The pump pulls off the expansion tank that needs a container to catch the fluid. My system had no pressure in it - you can check with INPA. There are 2 screws holding the pump onto the motor. The tabs on the motor can be bent back to take it apart. I couldn't find exactly the same size brushes so I bought bigger and ground down to size. I cleaned the comm in a lathe with fine emery and replaced the brushes and re assembled. The hydraulic parts weren't disassembled and so when I reassembled and topped up the expansion tank it all worked.

Top work ! I've had a poke around the pump/tank just inspecting/checking for leaks etc last year when I changed the gearbox oil on mine and as you say space is very limited indeed

 

[McDade]

I took the motor apart last week and rejuvenated it. Might be worth a try to prove it is the motor. See here https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=106752

Thanks very much for that, it gives me much more confidence that someone else here has found the pump and managed to rejuvenated

 

[McDade]

No , it's underneath the gearbox. There is a heat shield to remove and then a cover plate. That's the easy bit. The pump is on a a bracket with torx screws that are fiddly to get at. The motors earth cable is also fiddly - I changed it later for a hex bolt. The positive cable unclips from the mount and pulls apart. The pump pulls off the expansion tank that needs a container to catch the fluid. My system had no pressure in it - you can check with INPA. There are 2 screws holding the pump onto the motor. The tabs on the motor can be bent back to take it apart. I couldn't find exactly the same size brushes so I bought bigger and ground down to size. I cleaned the comm in a lathe with fine emery and replaced the brushes and re assembled. The hydraulic parts weren't disassembled and so when I reassembled and topped up the expansion tank it all worked.

Hello, Its taken me near enough a year to get on and take a look at this properly. I managed to remove the motor over the weekend, and its dead. Fingers crossed this is the actual fault, and the replacement will resolve the issue

With regards to filling the fluid reservoir back up, does this need to be done from underneath the car prior to putting the new pump on or is there a nozzle underneath the bonnet somewhere?

Thanks

 

[bladeowner]

No , it's underneath the gearbox. There is a heat shield to remove and then a cover plate. That's the easy bit. The pump is on a a bracket with torx screws that are fiddly to get at. The motors earth cable is also fiddly - I changed it later for a hex bolt. The positive cable unclips from the mount and pulls apart. The pump pulls off the expansion tank that needs a container to catch the fluid. My system had no pressure in it - you can check with INPA. There are 2 screws holding the pump onto the motor. The tabs on the motor can be bent back to take it apart. I couldn't find exactly the same size brushes so I bought bigger and ground down to size. I cleaned the comm in a lathe with fine emery and replaced the brushes and re assembled. The hydraulic parts weren't disassembled and so when I reassembled and topped up the expansion tank it all worked.

Hello, Its taken me near enough a year to get on and take a look at this properly. I managed to remove the motor over the weekend, and its dead. Fingers crossed this is the actual fault, and the replacement will resolve the issue

With regards to filling the fluid reservoir back up, does this need to be done from underneath the car prior to putting the new pump on or is there a nozzle underneath the bonnet somewhere?

Thanks

Fill the reservoir from underneath the car after the motor/pump is back on. I rigged up a filling device by using a clutch bleeding container and a rubber bulb as the reservoir opening is right up in the tunnel. BTW. I ended up putting a new motor on as the brushes weren't up to the job - but in theory it is a fix.

 

[bladeowner]

Filler to force fluid up into reservoir

 

[McDade]

Excellent, thanks very much

Did you buy your pump refurb or did you purchase one from SMG Society?

Thanks again

 

[bladeowner]

I bought a new one from SMG Society. They have a web page but also were on Ebay. As luck would have it Ebay had a 10% off voucher at the time and so it was a bit cheaper on Ebay.

 

[Tonycat0]

Can anybody help with a reasonable value mechanic for renewing the clutches on my 2003 Z4 SMG box? I am located East of Nottingham.

 

[McDade]

I bought a new one from SMG Society. They have a web page but also were on Ebay. As luck would have it Ebay had a 10% off voucher at the time and so it was a bit cheaper on Ebay.

Pump purchased, should be here this week for fitment. Will update you all when i hear back

Thanks

 

[bladeowner]

I bought a new one from SMG Society. They have a web page but also were on Ebay. As luck would have it Ebay had a 10% off voucher at the time and so it was a bit cheaper on Ebay.

Pump purchased, should be here this week for fitment. Will update you all when i hear back

Thanks

 

[McDade]

I am struggling to get the the power connector disconnected on the current pump? It appears two connectors click together but i cannot release them. Additionally the earth mount seems to disappear into the car somewhere. Does this need unscrewing from underneath the bonnet?

thanks

 

[bladeowner]

The connector needs to have the locking catch activated but I can't remember which way you press it. Picture below of motor side connector. The earth strap connects to a bolt on the gearbox if I recall.



The bit on the top has a pawl that needs to be released by pressing on the loom connector.

 

[bladeowner]

As you pull the motor off the fluid will pee out of reservoir - you need to catch it or buy some more There is an O ring seal in the reservoir that seals the joint to the pump. Don't lose it. As you are just changing the motor, the hydraulic side stays all primed and so if you do lose fluid just top up the reservoir when it's all back together. I needed a bright torch to be able to see the reservoir level when refilling.

You can see length of earth cable below

 

[bladeowner]

PS I think the motor connectors where also held on the car on a bracket and you had to turn it like a bayonet fitting to release it from it's bracket

 

[McDade]

Today I finally managed to get the time to fit the new motor pump, after around 5 hours of getting soaked in hydraulic oil I managed to get the system primed and the motor is now shifting between 1st and neutral

For the first time in around 12 months I managed to start it!

This is a massive milestone and I have a list of things I need to get sorted before it’s road worthy but I’ve set myself a target of 18/08/2019 (ZedFest) to have this on the road so I can meet as many people as possible who has helped me on here and buy them a beer (or 5)

Will keep you posted on my progression and I will be writing a blog post to help others in the future

Thanks

 

[bladeowner]

Good news btw I got soaked in oil too

 

[McDade]

Quick update, i may change this thread from SMG help to My Z4 Project:

So after been able to finally start the car, the car was hopping around on idle and then stalling. After some investigation it appears the air intake hose has perished, and the idle control valve appears to be clogged and isnt opening/closing. I have removed the air intake hose and have one on order (BMW 13547514867) and have attempted to clean out the ICV.

List of items to tackle:
Front Suspension coil spring
Brakes pads/disks
Bonnet lock mechanism
Valve Cover Gasket
Service


Slowly ticking through these, i am hoping to have the suspension coils changed this weekend along with pads disks and air intake should it arrive

Photos below:



Thanks

 

[McDade]

Little update

The ICV and air intake hose was replaced and it’s now not bouncing and stalling on idle.

Air Filter quickly swapped

Next stop is suspension and oil change. MOT should be booked next week

 

[greypride]

I ordered a motor for the SMG pump from SMG society last week. it arrived in a few days with some instructions. Fitted yesterday...
Did it on the drive with a trolley jack and axle stands - bloody hell these cars are low!!
Instantly it sounded better, the whine noise it makes when priming was faster and more purposeful. Driving it is much improved; the shifts are faster and smoother..
Full credit to SMG society and my mate Nathan who fitted it for me, i'm happy again!

PS, Nathan is going to pull the motor apart and see if can be refurbed.. i shall report back...

 

[parabolica]

Good to hear it went well; my SMG is on 71k miles and 16 years old - so far no issues but I'm sure one day the time will come...