Slow roof after motor cleaning and relocation

P

penant78

Member
Hi everybody,

I just finished the cleaning of my roof motor and relocation in the boot.
The motor works fine, there are no leaks, and the hydraulic oil is at the right level.
When I first tested it, it had a hard time to close, I even needed to help the roof close with my hand.
After some back and forth, it can open and close itself but still really slow.
I don't want to do the work again and would like to have some directions to the things I could have to check.
 
Hi,
I experienced something similar when I relocated mine - there was two things to that had to be fixed. Firstly, the bypass valve that was half-open due to the bowden cable being bent differently from its original route. There’s a white plastic part on the cable for adjustment. Secondly, even if there were no leaks and the roof worked ok when the motor was held upright, the amount of hydraulic fluid was not sufficient when I had the pump placed about 45 deg obliqeuely in the recess. Topped up and everything has been working since then.
 
I thought about the pump relocated at a different angle, i'l' add a little bit of oil.
And I'll check the bowden cable as it may be twisted. I had to clean the plug as I was blocked.
 
DMike said:
Hi,
I experienced something similar when I relocated mine - there was two things to that had to be fixed. Firstly, the bypass valve that was half-open due to the bowden cable being bent differently from its original route. There’s a white plastic part on the cable for adjustment. Secondly, even if there were no leaks and the roof worked ok when the motor was held upright, the amount of hydraulic fluid was not sufficient when I had the pump placed about 45 deg obliqeuely in the recess. Topped up and everything has been working since then.
Click to expand...

Many thanks. I followed what you made and it is far better! With the assembly at 45 degrees, this is not easy to find the right amount of hydraulic oil to fill.
And the end of my bowden cable was against the boot, so not sure it was in the right position.
It seems to still a little bit slow on closing but I can't compare with another one.
 
Looking at the image it probably gets air from the reservoir and would benefit from more fluid.

Regarding the bowden cable, the twisting of the white part loosens or tightens the cable and you can inspect the valve while doing that. But looking at your image the fluid amount is more probable cause of the problem.
 
I topped the hydraulic oil higher due to the relocation, the bowden cable and the airlock are definitely not stuck, but the roof still slow to close, sometimes I even need to help it by hand.
What can I look for now?
 
make sure you don't overfill with oil as it needs the space in the reservoir when operated.
penant78 said:
the bowden cable and the airlock are definitely not stuck
Click to expand...
do you mean the valve is not stuck in? If not, I would disconnect the bowden cable and push the valve in and out a number of times just to make sure it isn't corroded and partially stuck in.
If the valve is free then it could be the hydraulic cylinders are worn allowing oil to seep past the worn seals. There was a thread on this a couple of months back. Hope it isn't the cylinders as that is a fair old job to fix. :(
 
penant78 said:
I topped the hydraulic oil higher due to the relocation, the bowden cable and the airlock are definitely not stuck, but the roof still slow to close, sometimes I even need to help it by hand.
What can I look for now?
Click to expand...

Swap over the two hydraulic lines at the pump. Basically bolt for bolt leaving the lines on. Then swap the two spade connections over on the motor.

You’ll then find that the weakness will move from the Up to the Down direction and hopefully gravity will assist it going down anyway but it will close by its self without the need for manual intervention
 
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