scottbt vs peteUKZ4 bespoke detail.

scottbt

Member
 Loughborough, Leicestershire/midlands
Todays efforts were to prepare and protect this BMW Z4. The client contacted me a short while ago and wanted an idea of what could be done with what looked to be etchings on the horizontal panelwork of his vehicle. It would seem that it had been previously owned and parked under a tree or close to a berry bush. The berrys have been laying on the paintwork and eventually the acids etched the clearcoat somewhat. We eventually decided on a bespoke detail which was along the lines of a protection detail with some correctional work on the horizontal panelwork to irradicate the etchings in the clearcoat.

A quick once over before...

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And a slightly unclear look at the etchings in question prior to being prepared and taken into the garage...

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Wheels cleaned with Autosmart smartwheels, Valetpro non scrtach and long reach spoke brushes...

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These were then rinsed and exterior rinsed thoroughly ready for washing. Arches were pre-soaked with Autosmart G101, aggitated with a brush and rinsed clean. Washed 2 bucket method with Valetpro poseidons carnauba wash shampoo and z sponge...

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Rinsed thoroughly then treated with Autosmart tardis to remove traces of road tar...

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Rinsed and Iron x treated to remove any iron filing contamination which in fairness was very low...

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Rinsed and claybar treatment to ensure a clean and smooth surface ready for polish prepartion of the paintwork. This was undertaken with Dodo Juice born slippy clay lube and yellow poly clay. After tar removal and Iron x the levels of contamination were very low indeed bar the odd spot and little contamination grime...

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Dried using Uber towel and Autosmart tango as drying aid...

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Pulled into the garage and readied for polishing. Here is the etchings on the bonnet...

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Set to it with a combination I typically use which is 3M yellow polishing pad slightly primed with Dodo Juice lime prime to aid priming the pad and lower dusting & Scholl concepts S17+ polish...

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After a couple of hits I realised that harsher methods were neccesary so stepped up to wool and finally broke out the Farecla G3 compound. After some cutting I was left with quite a bit of dust and this...

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After a few hits of wool / Scholl / G3. I refined with 3M yellow pad and Scholl S17+ which left the finish looking nice and tight...

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Tops of wings were slightly easier then moved onto the next culprit, the tailgate...

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In all fairness. The tailgate looked far swirled than the bonnet but was much nicer to work on and came together quite well. This was after 2 hits of Farecla wool pad and Scholl conceptsS17+...

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Yes there is still RDS but not a bad turn round. Again refined with 3M yellow pad and Scholl S17+. On with the other side I will appologise for teh casual attire but after 2 weeks solid of being in typical work uniform I wanted to hang loose a little so decided on a poorboys T, gap jeans and etnies ensemble lol...

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Rest of vehicle was cleansed with Dodo juice need for speed, trim dressed with Valetpro yellow gel, glass cleaned inside / outside and sealed with Permanon, exhaust tips cleaned with oo wire wool and Meguiars nxt metal polish, arches / tyres dressed, wheels sealed etc. Wax today was Swissvax onynx.

Wax curing. This was left to cure for 30 minutes...

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And the grande finale...

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Thanks for looking...

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Thats a fantastic job... especially to be able to get a refection like that on a silver car.
 
Rare wheels on a Z4 but I like a lot :thumbsup:

Good job on the cleaning (although that word doesn't do what you've done justice).
 
Fantastic Job,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, however trying to get my head around what is being polished :D , cars have a clearcoat , so when one polishes the car ,the paintwork is not being polished , its the clearcoat/lacquer , am I correct in thinking this , also when one claybars the car the contaminants are being removed from the clearcoat/lacquer, not the paint. :?
 
Thanks for all the nice comments.

@Gerry - categorically, you are decontaminating the cars paint or painted surface. You could split the difference and say that you are polishing and claying the clearcoat but either way its a painted surface as the clearcoat is a clear painted surface ontop of the base layer or pigmented layer of paint. obviously there is subsiquint layers starting at primer, base layer or colour coat and clearcoat. all are paints just in different contexts. Hope this clears things up :thumbsup:
 
Cheers Scott, never thought of clearcoat as paint, thinking about paint finnish as above does makes sense .
 
Nice work as normal Scott :thumbsup:

You mention curing 30 mins for wax i always apply my Vic Concours a panel at a time and remove at once is there any advantage with curing or is it only certain waxes that have a curing time ?

Permanon what is this does it help with the glass as this is my pet hate when detailing my car the glass.

Cheers Gaz :thumbsup:
 
GAZA62 said:
Nice work as normal Scott :thumbsup:

You mention curing 30 mins for wax i always apply my Vic Concours a panel at a time and remove at once is there any advantage with curing or is it only certain waxes that have a curing time ?

Permanon what is this does it help with the glass as this is my pet hate when detailing my car the glass.

Cheers Gaz :thumbsup:

Cheers Gaz. What I found with certain oilier waxes is cure time is neccesary to ensure a good bond between product and paint. Using Swissvax waxes, you get the idea once worked with them a few times same as Zymol, then on the flip side, collinite 476s or fk1000p for instance are easily used wowo ( wax on wax off ) method and no loss of durability. Permanon is the latest endorsement i have achieved. They do a range of nano products much akin to the likes of Gtechnic etc. In point of fact, Permanon car super shine is neat formulation of Gtechnic C2 which is clearly pointed out on Gtechnics website. Very clever stuff and great on the durability front.
 
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