Apologies if this topic has been done to death. I have a 2008 z4 coupe which under sunlight shows up the usual swirls. I have tried using a DA polisher fitted with a Meguiars Microfibre cutting Pad and have used Chemical Guys VSS scratch and Swirl remover. A couple of passes and the car looks better. I finish it off with hand applied Poor Boys Black hole, and the car looks great. Two weeks later and once the car is washed all the swirls are visible again in sunlight. I know that the BMW paint is very hard but what is the best stuff to use to permanently remove the swirls, or is my technique of a couple of slow passes not enough or all wrong??
Sapphire Black how do I remove swirls without damaging the top coat??
- Thread starter Bluecat
- Start date
I personally would take more time to use 2 or 3 different grades of compound with suitable foam pads working from coarse down to fine. I like Poorboys SSR 3, 2.5, 2 and 1. Then use the Black Hole. This is only a glaze that fills any remaining swirls but doesn't have much resistance to detergents or weathering. You then need to use a sealant and/or wax to give a durable, hi-gloss, weather resistant finish. You can't go wrong with Collinite 845. I skim another coat on every 3 or 4 weeks. Only wash the car with a pH neutral shampoo/snow-foam (Chemical Guys Honeydew Snowfoam is excellent), that won't strip any products from the paint and dry it with a microfibre towel and decent detailer like Sonax Extreme Brilliant Shine. 
Bluecat said:
The clear coat is like granite on bmw's, I've carried out a lot more than 2 passes with the same pads as you but using ultimate compound & the swirls are reduced but still visible, it's just going to take time, I'm going to have another go in the summer
Rob
I put up a post on detailing world, my car is the same colour:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=391099
I am still dialing it in but as other have said, the clearcoat is HARD. I have ended up doing a 2 stage cut and polish, although I still need to go back and do some other areas, heres how mine worked out on the back wing:
Time and patience is the key. Concentrate on one panel until you are happy with the results before moving on to the next. I have been dodging away at mine for over a month now.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=391099
I am still dialing it in but as other have said, the clearcoat is HARD. I have ended up doing a 2 stage cut and polish, although I still need to go back and do some other areas, heres how mine worked out on the back wing:
Time and patience is the key. Concentrate on one panel until you are happy with the results before moving on to the next. I have been dodging away at mine for over a month now.
enzed4 said:scooobydont said:
Would love to see that thread complete - all of your photos are missing thanks to the photofucket fiasco
The order is a bit mixed up but I created my own site for my photos:
http://slowandlow.co.uk/index.php?/category/4
scooobydont said:enzed4 said:scooobydont said:
Would love to see that thread complete - all of your photos are missing thanks to the photofucket fiasco
The order is a bit mixed up but I created my own site for my photos:
http://slowandlow.co.uk/index.php?/category/4
Perfect - thanks
Currently working on a Honda Jazz and a VW passat - the Dub having typically hard paint and the honda having paint protection meaning it's a nightmare to work.
Used Mint microfibre pads and Menzerna 3 stage cut and has been coming up a treat, used the same approach when I had the Z4M to good effect - good to have a good DA too, to really help get enough heat into the panel.
Used Mint microfibre pads and Menzerna 3 stage cut and has been coming up a treat, used the same approach when I had the Z4M to good effect - good to have a good DA too, to really help get enough heat into the panel.