rust-proof question
- Thread starter ant1path
- Start date
The steel is factory proofed and the Z4 has no history of rust appearing on the structure or panels (unless there has been damage). Brake pipes, springs, shocks and other fittings will deteriorate and rust but proofing won't really help once it's taken. Slapping something like Waxoyl is to be avoided at all costs, it stinks, drips all over the floor for weeks, and can smoke off or even catch fire if it's near hot components :thumbsdown:
andysat said:
as quoted
"The Module uses technology which interferes with the electrical charge between iron and oxygen so it becomes difficult to form rust. This is achieved by creating a negative (-) charge on the metal surface, causing the Oxygen (-) atom to be repelled by the (-) surface charge"
rust proofing digitally?
The only place I would concentrate on would be the wheel arches behind the liners, the rest of the car should already have sufficient rust protection on the floorpan and BMW already use wax protection in the box sections, you should be able to see where the wax has run out of the drain holes etc. I used Dinitrol underbody wax on the Z3 and in the sills and rear arches and still good as new after 12 years.
The question you need to ask is how long you intend on keeping the car, if only a few years I wouldn't bother.
Tim.
The question you need to ask is how long you intend on keeping the car, if only a few years I wouldn't bother.
Tim.
Maniac said:
What you thinking of using? I've only ever used Waxoyl for box sections and undersides of classics (and sheds in my younger days) but as I say it's not really something I'de recommend on a Zed
I'de be really interested to hear any feedback about some of the pro gear like Ziebart, Dinitrol or RstStop which looks a bit more like it http://www.ruststop.net/
The Dinitrol underbody wax I find is far superior to Finnigans Waxoyl as it goes on in thick brown metallicky finish and doesn't dry out in the longterm like waxoyl. Dinitrol cavity wax is far thinner and can be a bit messy to work with as its like water.
http://www.frost.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=dinitrol&order=relevance&dir=desc&x=34&y=23
Tim.
http://www.frost.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=dinitrol&order=relevance&dir=desc&x=34&y=23
Tim.
Merrsh1 said:
Yes I did, bought 5 aerosol cans to do the underside of the Z3 and the rear arches, its a bit messy if your prepared to get on your back under the car, car hoist would be ideal and just bought a couple of cavity wax cans to do the rear arches, sills, bonnet and boot, the doors had already been proofed.
Tim.
TitanTim said:
Very good. So would I be correct in thinking getting the car up on a lift and spraying the underside would be the best way to do it? Mines being garaged since birth but for the sake of a couple of hundred quid it would seem silly not to do this. I avoid driving in winter but sometimes have to use my car if the wifes barge is unavailable.
