RTAB replacement DIY
- Thread starter stupot67
- Start date
I got too impatient and ended up buying one of the tools as well.
I was going to make one myself, but you need a 62mm socket on one end and they cost more than the whole tool. Anyway, I haven't used mine yet but I would also be happy to pass it one once I have finished with it.
I am just waiting for Santa to deliver my Powerflex RTA bushes
I was going to make one myself, but you need a 62mm socket on one end and they cost more than the whole tool. Anyway, I haven't used mine yet but I would also be happy to pass it one once I have finished with it.
I am just waiting for Santa to deliver my Powerflex RTA bushes
simonlpearce
Senior member
domsz4 said:
Rear Trailing Arm Bushes.
Yours might need doing depending on age/mileage. I have seen 100k miles bushes come out before and be fine, and have also seen 50k mile bushes come out and be toast. A decent pry bar will tell you how yours are doing, but they are a common age related point of failure on most BMW's. Symptoms are usually tramlining or knocking/banging from the rear over a bumpy road.
Bradders75
Senior member
Am I correct to assume this tool isn't needed if replacing the RTAB as a complete assembly including the lollipop holder thingy? This is on the winter jobs list for me too.
simonlpearce
Senior member
Bradders75 said:
I think you are talking about the front control arm rear bushes which come in the lolipop bush. If that's the case then no essentially you won't need the bush tool but a 3 leg puller of some kind will make the job a LOT easier. The RTAB's can be done without a puller by using fire, a drill and a hacksaw, but it is 10 times easier with the tool.
GuidoK said:jan_tekin said:I would mark the carrier position and get it back as best i can but i don't understand this pre-loading/pre-tension :? can someone please explain
I only have a dutch version of TIS on my pc here but this is (in dutch) the advised procedure regarding this:
http://audio.home.xs4all.nl/zooi/z4/div/tis/trailingarmrubber.pdf
...There is an online tis with all in english but too much hassle to search the specific page in that website so deal with this very logical foreign language :lol:
They write that you have to mount a special tool on the drive flange, and put the arm in a special position before you mount it in the chassis. As an alignment for the bushing itself.
(in another part they also note that the rubber itself has to be pressed in a certain position too, there is a split in the outer metal bushing case that has to correspond with a line (in the casting) of the trailing arm).
I think it is because the rubber bushing is asymetrical in design (maybe a hydrobushing), and they want a specific orientation and specific tension (or better: lack of tension) when the car sits on its wheels. If you normally mount the bushing, the trailing arm is all the way down, and that is not the way it sits when it's on its wheels. If you don't measure it up like described in TIS it may be that the bushing is under constant tension when it sits on its wheels (once the bolt that goes through it is tightened).
That might result in premature failing of some sort if the rubber is under constant strain (and bigger strain when bumps are met).
But as I said, this only applies to the traditional rubber bushings. All poly bushings act like a bearing, so they can swivel without any tension. The poly ones also all have trailing limiter kits build in (also more or less because of that bearing like design)
thanks, found a online version in Russian but luckily google can translate it for me
If anyone needs it its here
Going to have a go myself as I've done most of my suspension so fair
Got a set of Rouge limiters to fit, decided this was a better option instead of going poly. Happy to borrow or buy the tool and pass it on after I've finished, can i be second inline after TheHoff please
I did my RTA Bushes today, using the tool. It's a bit of a PITA job to be honest, I absolutely hate jacking up cars (I dropped one of a jack a few years ago), so I'm a bit paranoid. You have to remove a bit of the rear wheel arch to get to the RTA carrier but it's only 3 hours start to finish and the tool makes a load of difference.
I got some Powerflex bushes from Santa so no hassle with refitting.
As before, happy to lend or sell the tool on to anyone that would find it useful. PM if you are interested
I got some Powerflex bushes from Santa so no hassle with refitting.
As before, happy to lend or sell the tool on to anyone that would find it useful. PM if you are interested
simonlpearce
Senior member
Wonder if this is the same size tool as for E36, have a set that need doing on the M3 i am restoring???
simonlpearce
Senior member
Good to know. I expected it would be since the E36 and E46 share most the same rear axle parts. BMW's are just like giant lego Well if fire and a saw doesn't work, which i expect it will given they are probably 20yrs old and might even fall out, i will tap someone up on here.