Rough starting when cold = New cam chain??

WillieT

Member
Hi Guys,

I need some advise!! :cry:

When starting my 2008 2.0l Z4 it seems to run roughly for about 3-5 minutes and then it's fine, so........ I took it to my local mechanic who told me that it might be the spark plugs so he changed them.. Made no difference, he said that he'd put it on the diagnostic machine and it had come up with various error codes, one of them being something to do with the camchain, he stated that he believed that it may need a new camchain fitted (approximate cost £1200-£1500 fitted) and these models were known for camchain problems... I'm guess I'm looking for a bit of advise.. Are the camchain known to have problems? (my car has done 70k miles) and is the quote he's giving about right?
Thanks in advance for any information
 
The temporary rough running symptoms could be many, many different things, but a chain/tensioner issue usually (but not always) rattles & ticks as well as causing rough running (My old R58 Cooper S was done under warranty and sounded like a stuttering diesel). Having changed plugs which rarely cause these symptoms rather than coils which do, I'd want the code list and have eliminated all other possibilities before committing £1.5k on another speculative repair.
 
Many thanks Ewazix :thumbsup:
I've just picked it up from the Garage as I had a full service done plus spark plugs and front pads , they also cleaned the filters on both inlet valves.. Came in at £370.00 ( tbh thought it was going be more) They didn't seem certain what the problem was but seem to think that it MIGHT be "guides for camchain breaking down"
I might look to getting a 2nd opinion and get the fault codes checked again
Saying that the car was running so smoothly on the drive home! :D
 
Fingers crossed then. If the tensioner unit is wearing badly or breaking up then bits should have been seen in the oil, if they took the opportunity to check. It's definitely worth monitoring and re-checking codes :thumbsup:
 
WillieT said:
Many thanks Ewazix :thumbsup:
I've just picked it up from the Garage as I had a full service done plus spark plugs and front pads , they also cleaned the filters on both inlet valves.. Came in at £370.00 ( tbh thought it was going be more) They didn't seem certain what the problem was but seem to think that it MIGHT be "guides for camchain breaking down"
I might look to getting a 2nd opinion and get the fault codes checked again
Saying that the car was running so smoothly on the drive home! :D

Hi, I’m curious as to what the “filters on both inlet valves” actually are? :?
Rob
 
WillieT said:
Smartbear I have absolutely no idea!! :rofl:
I was just reading what they wrote on the invoice!

I’d take steps if i was billed for that, great big ones going straight out the door! :o
Rob
 
It sounds like they don't really know what the problem was!

If it came back I'd be looking for an independent BMW specialist to have a look at it - if you say whereabouts you are someone may be able to recommend one. :thumbsup:
 
Good point Mr Tidy... I'm in Beckenham, Kent so if anyone does know of an independent BMW specialist then I would be very grateful :thumbsup:
 
Not my part of the world sadly.

Although this isn't Z4 specific, it is BMW specific and I'm sure your engine will have been fitted to other BMW models so it may be useful:- https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=72&t=796191
 
Mr Tidy said:
It sounds like they don't really know what the problem was!

If it came back I'd be looking for an independent BMW specialist to have a look at it - if you say whereabouts you are someone may be able to recommend one. :thumbsup:
Thanks Mr Tidy :thumbsup:
 
WillieT said:
Good point Mr Tidy... I'm in Beckenham, Kent so if anyone does know of an independent BMW specialist then I would be very grateful :thumbsup:

Try ETA near brands hatch. One of the best bmw specialists around Kent area.
 
Are there inlet filters to the vanos? Two of them towards the front of the engine block that you use T40 torx to remove? Was watching a you tube video of a guy prepping a N52 engine and sure I recall him doing them. Meant to have a look on mine but haven’t yet.
 
Guys, thank you all for the garage recommendations, I will definitely get in touch with one of them next week...
So when I picked the car up from the Mechanic he mentioned that when he had started the car to move it for me to pick it up that it started from cold without fault so that the cleaning of the valve filters MAY have worked (he told me that they were really dirty) I have since started it from cold 4 times (and driven it over 100 miles) and it's been perfect!! :-o ... The mechanic had done the cleaning of the valve filters on recommendation from another Garage that specialises in BMW camchain problems, they had told him that before they start doing any investigation on the camchain they should clean the valve filters first because in their experience this often fixed the fault.
As I said I will still definitely be getting in touch with one of the Garages you guys have kindly recommended and see what they think.
 
So cancel my last entry!!!.... Started the car this morning and it ran roughly and the EML was flashing so I turned it off and restarted it and it was fine but the EML has stayed on, drove it for 30 minutes and running perfectly, full power, no ticking etc... So pretty much exactly what happened the first time :headbang:
I spoke to a mechanic friend of a friend who seemed a bit dubious about the camchain diagnosis so I'm going to contact one of the Garages that you guys have recommended and see what they say
 
Prior to my ownership my 2.0i 2006 Z4 had rough idling, owner took it to BMW who diagnosed the cause to be the timing chain.. At great expense the chain was replaced but the rough idling persisted... Turned out it was one of the coil packs, a far cheaper and easier solution.... I agree with ewazix to take a look at them first maybe...
 
Many thanks Andrew, yes I'm definitely not going to rush into a cam chain replacement before I've had another Garage take a look :thumbsup:
 
The simple/cheapest way to diagnose if, or which coil pack is faulty is to get a new coil and sequentially swap it with each cylinder to see if the rough running disappears.

I'm still curious to know what valve 'filters' your garage were cleaning ??? :?
 
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