Roof problems not motor

D

Double Zero

Member
Hi

I have a problem with the roof not opening, I dont think its the motor as I can hear the motor operate to open the latches any ideas on how to fix this issue..

When opening the roof I press the roof open button
Windows drop
Latches release, motor noise ends button solid red
Roof does not retract, when I lift finger of the button it flashes red.

I have checked the drainage channels they are clear, I've always cleared them regularly as always been worried that the motor would give up.
Rear parcel shelf is in lowest position, microswitch underneath appears to be working clicks when pushed in, I've not checked electric on switch as not getting yellow warning light.
Fuses are OK
Bowden cable does not appear to be working has some play in cable when pulled out the roof will not drop manually, roof moved back about 4 inches.

Is there an easy way of adjusting the Bowden cable as I think this is possibly the issue.

I did have someone rear end my Zed in November this was repaired at bodyshop through insurance, today was the first attempt at putting roof down as we are in lockdown the car has been off the road.

Thanks for your help
 
Think you will have to pull the motor back into the boot to check the release valve, the fact that you can't lower it manually would indicate the valve is not being depressed to release the pressure, slack cable may be the cause. Might also be a problem with the micro switch in the side of the roof, maybe a broken wire. Best pull the motor pump unit back into the boot to investigate further then relocate it in the boot permenantly. Good how to here https://zroadster.org/threads/z4-roof-motor-relocation-to-boot.19256/
 
The motor that unlatches from the windscreen is a different one to that which retracts the roof hydraulically.
To me it sounds a classic case of the hydraulic motor behind the passenger seat area has died. It's usually possible to revive it if extracted and relocated soon.

If you cant hear anything whirring after the unlatching, then its died. If it continues to whirl with no movement, then its not building pressure for some other reason.
 
Thanks for the advice number 5

There is no whirring after unlatching sounds like the motor may have died, probably all the biblical rain we had earlier in the year.

Would the roof not drop with the bowden clip pulled if the motor had died?

As its off the road for a bit with us all in lockdown, I'll try and relocate it to the boot. If I have no luck I'll be in touch with you or Bowser to get it sorted once we are allowed out on the roads again.
 
Dead motor with seized brass plunger (which the bowden cable activates). You are gonna need to pull the motor for sure.
 
Yes, Id agree with ph001.

By the time the motor fails 10-15 years after production, more often than not, the bypass valve operated by pulling the red hoop has also seized as it’s probably never been operated in its life either.

Daft design really.

You’re welcome to use Bowser or myself if you need help, whoever’s nearest
 
I've had a very similar problem today. I don't wish to hijack the thread, but my problem is remarkably similar so there's a good chance it's the same problem.

Same symptoms:
- Windows drop and roof unlatches fine, but doesn't lower. Red LED illuminates.
- No noise from the hydraulic pump.
- Red LED starts blinking once I release the switch.
- All 3 roof fuses fine.
- I can hear the relay behind the fuse box operating when I press and release the roof open switch (from the unlatched position).

The pump is only 4 years old and was working fine last Friday. The drain hole is clear and the pump is dry (as far as I can tell).

As above, my emergency release does nothing. I'm reluctant to pull it too hard, but it's out far enough to twist the red handle and lock it in to the extended position.

I'm stumped... :headbang: :headbang:
 
C8H18 said:
I'm stumped... :headbang: :headbang:
Click to expand...

if you're in Somerset, you're not far from me, so I'm happy to take a look at it when lock-down restrictions ease up a little. It's probably revivable if only recently stopped, and I can relocate it to the boot at the same time if you wish. (I'm on the M4/M5 interchange)

Drop me a PM if you want to discuss further ?

Alan
 
Number5 said:
if you're in Somerset, you're not far from me, so I'm happy to take a look at it when lock-down restrictions ease up a little. It's probably revivable if only recently stopped, and I can relocate it to the boot at the same time if you wish. (I'm on the M4/M5 interchange)
Click to expand...

Thanks - that's a very kind offer, Alan. I may well be in touch with you in the near future. I live near Glastonbury, so not too far away.

It's really annoying not being able to drop the roof on a lovely day - now I know how E86 owners must feel! :rofl:
 
Update

Opened up the pump housing and dragged it all in to the boot. The motor seems to have just given up. It isn't seized, but just doesn't work. 12V is going to the connections, so it must be the motor. I measured the resistance across the motor terminals and it's just an open circuit.

Looks like its new motor time :x

Is there another motor that fits the Z4 pump? R52 Mini ones on eBay are about £50 and look promising. Looks like they might fit, but it would be a gamble unless anyone else knows otherwise :idunno:
 
The vast majority of motors can be revived. Try chucking it in a bucket of diesel overnight then leaving it to drain for a few hours. Apply 12v whilst tapping the motor with a wooden mallet.

It’s usually just a case of getting enough contact between the brushes and the commutator. Once it starts moving, it self cleans.
 
I'm really sruggling opening the motor housing to realease the motor, the tie clips are not giving up, I can' get the housing open.

I've got the tape off, about 4 iches, it just doesnt want to come apart.

Anyone got any tips?

Thanks

Stay safe
 
Yes its hard to get the ties to break that are holding it in the well, I managed to poke a long metal rod into the plastic housing between its lid and body then with considrable force levered it up and broke the ties. One the ties were broken it lifted out of its well and was easy to pull back into the boot. Mine had been replaced before by the look of the motor and the tape sealing the container lid. Not as much tape holding the lid on as an original. Mine was all working but as a precaution I moved it to the boot. Lubed the bypass valve and checked its operation before positioning it in the boot behind the carpet and zip tied to a bracket that is under the carpet.
 
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