Roof problem

I look at this over and over again and every time it seems that there is air in the system? Very odd indeed . If the fluid level isn’t dropping it should have self bled itself by now. Also classic symptoms of a weak pump but you’ve changed that too?
Is it possible that in moving the motor into the trunk you have kinked or pinched one of the pipes?
 
Is it possible that in moving the motor into the trunk you have kinked or pinched one of the pipes?
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The problem existed before I touched anything.
I even put its engine back in the original position and it's still the same.
It's actually a weird problem; I haven't seen this anywhere on the internet before.... :( :( :(
 
Henry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jjmkgHwKnU

1st, A picture is worth 1000 words.

Your able to lower the top manually with one hand!

Your Hydraulic system is not pressurized. I'm guessing here, but you may have only changed out the electric motor and used the old pump head?? Although, you didn't install the emergency by-pass, the by-pass system is still contained within the pump. The by-pass is more than likely jammed partially open. Go to the motor/pump and you should see a brass/copper ball bearing. Note, this is under the plastic harness which is tied to the emergency release cable. This ball bearing is the by-pass system and may be partially pushed in. This ball bearing has a spring behind it and should have popped out. However, over time the bearing gets loaded with dirty and jam in. Try freeing it with WD-40 and pushing it in. With luck, afterwards it, the ball bearing will pop out shutting off the by-pass.
 
I changed the complete hydraulic unit
not just the electric motor.
So the bypass is new and not seized up.
To be sure that it is completely free, I did not reassemble the fixing of the mechanism of the bowden cable.
Currently the hydraulic unit is in the trunk; while I find the fault.
Indeed I think there is air in the circuit....why?
and why the circuit does not bleed automatically?
 
021x.jpg

the new group on the left and the original old one on the right

Does anyone know the adjustment of the pressure screws in the hydraulic block?
 
Never tried to adjust the pressure and if you did you'd be saying that both units had the same problem. Highly unlikely.
You'd also run the risk of bursting one of the pipes. I think air in there somewhere is still your issue.
Your old unit looks better than most, doesn't look like that has been in there very long either.
In fact I'm now wondering just how old that one is and whether it was the fitting of that unit which started the problem?
Most definitely do NOT throw the old one away as I wonder if your issue is elsewhere and that old unit is still good.
Do you know when the previous unit was fitted and how it was done? I guess they probably took the roof off for access? Definitely worth getting in there and checking none of the hydraulic pipes are kinked or have been tied too tightly into place.

Did you also check that the numbers on the pipes match the numbers on the block? 11 & 13 together and 12 & 14 together.
 
I don't know if the first pump is original or not.
I checked the pipes 11 & 13 together and 12 & 14 together it's good
I will try to check if a pipe is pinched.
 
Henry

I agree with the other poster, hold on to the old motor you replaced, it looks almost new.

Since you've used two self-bleeding pumps to solve your pressure issue without good results, I doubt that you have air in your lines.

The hydraulic system has a motor/pump, four hoses and two hinge lifters. Unless you discover a kinked hose and since you already replaced the motor, I believe the seals in one or both of your hinge lifters have failed. Hinge lifter seals fail in two ways, either the outer seal fails, and they begin to leak fluid or the rubber rings around piston within the lifter breaks. Since you are not leaking fluid, I believe the rings around your pistons in the hinge lifter have failed. When these rings fail, the hydraulic fluid being pushed into the hinge lifter by the motor simply passes thru the broken ring, rather than moving the piston and the top. Basically, these failures result in a loss of Hydraulic pressure.

Hinge lifter failures are age related. There are at least two separate businesses in the United States that rebuild all makes and models of hinge lifters for cars, so this must be a common failure. I'm guessing that there must be businesses in either the EU or the UK which rebuilds convertible tops hinge lifters.
 
Jas

Thank you for all these explanations; to be honest after all my research I was also thinking of an internal hydraulic leak; at the two hinge lifters.
Which I find odd; why both at the same time?
And why do I manage to have pressure during part of the sequence?
If there was no more sealing in the hinge lifters normally I should have no pressure?
In short, if the diagnosis is confirmed, that means that I have to have my complete roof removed (I don't have a garage :( ) and send my hinge lifters to the USA.
Given the price it will cost me I would like to be sure.
 
Henry

Look, until you're ready, you can still enjoy your car, you'll just have to manually move the top up/down. It's honestly no big deal. I know that you already spent a lot of money buying the new motor thinking it would fix your problem. You should be able to sell your old motor on your France Ebay and get back some of your money.

Yes, it's the piston rings, in the lifters. Maybe one is totally gone and the other good or there both partially gone. You just can't tell. Sometimes it's much simpler when one starts leaking fluid. However, you always replace both when the top is off.

1st, I'm hoping that another poster from either the EU/UK who reads this and is aware of a vender in either the EU/UK who rebuilds Auto hinger lifters posts the name and contact info for that vender.

Here is one of the two venders in the USA that re-builds hinge lifters https://www.tophydraulics.com/bmw/610-bmw-z4.html

I read the info from this page. I believe that if you send them your old hinge lifters (both) they will rebuild them for $495.00 USD. I do not know if this amount includes return shipping. I also do not know if they charge your VAT, yet, they may have to in order to clear your customs.

You're going to need to call them and confirm all of this, meaning you'll need someone who speaks English calling on your behalf. Remember this business is located in the Pacific time zone of the USA which might be maybe 9 hours difference than France...

Henry if you need the other business I'll get it for you. However, there website notes that you have to call (phone) for the prices of their service.
 
[ref]Jas- USA[/ref], that is exceptionally helpful and probably the only conclusion left.
I believe this is a rare fault in fact.
Whilst I realise it still means dismantling stuff, [ref]henry974[/ref], you also have to option of sourcing a used pair of lifters (more commonly referred to as rams in the UK, if that helps your search)
You could fit these to see if it cures your problem, and then look into refurbishing your originals at a later date.
Pretty sure these are not an item that differs depending on LHD or RHD, and the UK has a thriving community who break these cars for spares.
Notwithstanding the work it will mean for you, I recommend putting a 'wanted' ad on here to see if you can find any rams.
[ref]bigwinn[/ref], [ref]Umfaan[/ref], [ref]Street[/ref], any of you chaps got spare roof rams?
 
enuff_zed said:
[ref]Jas- USA[/ref], that is exceptionally helpful and probably the only conclusion left.
I believe this is a rare fault in fact.
Whilst I realise it still means dismantling stuff, [ref]henry974[/ref], you also have to option of sourcing a used pair of lifters (more commonly referred to as rams in the UK, if that helps your search)
You could fit these to see if it cures your problem, and then look into refurbishing your originals at a later date.
Pretty sure these are not an item that differs depending on LHD or RHD, and the UK has a thriving community who break these cars for spares.
Notwithstanding the work it will mean for you, I recommend putting a 'wanted' add on here to see if you can find any rams.
[ref]bigwinn[/ref], [ref]Umfaan[/ref], [ref]Street[/ref], any of you chaps got spare roof rams?
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Sadly no not at the moment
 
I have a full working roof from a facelift e85 in excellent condition. £450. I can help swap out if you’re around the north east some time.

Alternatively, (no connection to me) I did spy a dead roof near me that you could salvage for parts. If you want to try and piece a solution together you could ask them to strip and send the rams to you: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/479600144164213/
 
Street said:
I have a full working roof from a facelift e85 in excellent condition. £450. I can help swap out if you’re around the north east some time.

Alternatively, (no connection to me) I did spy a dead roof near me that you could salvage for parts. If you want to try and piece a solution together you could ask them to strip and send the rams to you: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/479600144164213/
Click to expand...
He's over La Manche sadly
 
Henry, I agree with enuff-zed

A used set of hinges might be best for you. In that, I realized you don't have a garage, this might be your only car. The turnaround on shipping the hinges out for repair might be 3/4 weeks. There could be long delays in Customs and all the while you were waiting you might be without a drivable car. Should you decide to do this repair a used set of hinges should work.
 
Thank you all for your encouragement and support. :thumbsup:
I'll head over to top hydraulic to change my lifters; That way the problem will be solved once and for all.
If I understand correctly, I have to send them my lifters so that they can rebuild them since I don't live in the USA.
I know it will take time but I have no choice. :(
I'll ask them for a quote and let you know.
 
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