Roof problem

H

henry974

Member
Hi there
I am new and French (sorry nobody is perfect) :D ; and I use google translator.
I have a 2003 z4 3.0l.
17bg.jpg

and since 6 months I have a problem (hydraulic I think) with my roof.
By dint of research I ended up ordering a new complete hydraulic unit but without success...
When I press the opening button the hooks unlock; the windows roll down I hear
engine but nothing happens.
I push it by hand freely until about 1/4 of the sequence and there the pump is finished
work without problem.
To close the roof begins to rise then falls suddenly as if there were
a pressure drop in the circuit.
The switch in the trunk is shunted; I did not reassemble the bowden cable;
I checked the harness at the front left of the roof,
I don't have a leak...I don't understand where my problem comes from?
Has anyone here encountered this error before?
In advance thank you for your help.
I attach 1 video to explain my concerns.

[vimeo]773002614[/vimeo]

https://vimeo.com/773002614
 
Henry

Your Video shows the roof dropping back after it stopped. Your hydraulic system can't be fully pressurized. 1st, check the red handle emergency by-pass in your trunk/boot. In that, it may be partially engaged which might cause your loss of pressure. I hope your top motor has been relocated into the trunk/boot. In that, you'll be able to check if the emergency release at the motor is jammed, as well as being able to check the hydraulic fluid level. The only other thing which could cause this sort of pressure loss is being low on Hydraulic fluid. Maybe one of your hinge lifters is leaking/seeping fluid.
 
Hello Jas and thank you
The bowden cable is not installed; I can thus check if the by-pass is activated or not.
When the roof is closed and I want to open it, I have no by-pass pressure; on the other hand when it is down and I start closing the bypass is hard.
My engine is currently in the trunk positioned horizontally while the repair is being carried out.
The level in the tank is good.
I have no apparent external leak, so I was also thinking of an internal leak. but why only for a moment and not all the time.
Moreover, although I have read several forums, I have never seen this type of problem.
 
henry974 said:
Hello Jas and thank you
The bowden cable is not installed; I can thus check if the by-pass is activated or not.
When the roof is closed and I want to open it, I have no by-pass pressure; on the other hand when it is down and I start closing the bypass is hard.
My engine is currently in the trunk positioned horizontally while the repair is being carried out.
The level in the tank is good.
I have no apparent external leak, so I was also thinking of an internal leak. but why only for a moment and not all the time.
Moreover, although I have read several forums, I have never seen this type of problem.
Click to expand...
If it's horizontal that could be your problem.
If you only fill it to the + mark on the reservoir it will only work in the upright position.
At an angle the ports in the pump can be uncovered and suck in air.
Stand it upright and fill it up until fluid spills out the top. Then try it.
Don't put it at any more than a 45 degree angle. This is how they usually sit when relocated into the corner of the trunk.
 
henry974 said:
Sorry I didn't read myself
the pump is in a vertical position :wink:
Click to expand...
Ah. No quick fix then.
Fill it right up and see what happens anyway.
Then see if the fluid drops at all.
Sometimes, if air has got in it can take a few operations to self bleed.
 
Martin I’m thinking this looks like a loom break issue

Doesn’t work until it’s pushed- makes the connection?
 
I have already checked the electrical harness at the top of the roof and it is good.
To isolate the problem of the electrical harness I supplied 12 volts directly to the pump and the result is the same
 
Have you checked the harness along the right hand side down to the motor

That’s where my break was
 
My z4 is a left-hand drive, I checked the cable from the roof release motor to where I could in the soft top.
I did not look on the right side.
If this famous cable is cut does the engine continue to run or does it stop working?
Mine spins all the time.
 
Ah no a loom break is full stop of everything

If your pump still spins that’s not it
 
Re reading

I don’t think there is much left to check apart from

Check the motor has correct wire attachment +/-
Check the hydraulic hoses 11/13 and 12/14 are in the right order and right ports

I’d then be saying your pump head is on the way out
 
henry974 said:
I changed the hydraulic group it is new
I have already reversed the hydraulic circuits and the connectors + and -
Click to expand...
was it working before you worked on the pump?
Rob
 
Need I be the one to ask this? Are you operating the roof with the engine running? Mine is a bit like this when doing it from the battery sometimes and needs a little help to get it started.
 
MikeyH said:
Need I be the one to ask this? Are you operating the roof with the engine running? Mine is a bit like this when doing it from the battery sometimes and needs a little help to get it started.
Click to expand...

Fair shout
 
Hi Henry

You said in your original post that when you push the top-down button, the top will release from the windshield frame and then stop moving, is that correct. If yes, then go and do it. However, after the top stops moving, get out the car and attempt to manually push the top down.
Note. This is basically a pressure test for your hydraulic system. You should not be able to push down the top unless you apply great effort to do so. This is why there is a by-pass on the system.

Given that you advise that the emergency by-pass is not being used and you have hydraulic fluid that only leaves the pump-head on the motor.

When you say you replaced the hydraulic system do you mean the hinge lifters or the tops electric motor/pump? If it's the electric motor, did you get a new motor and pump combo or simply the electric motor and you change out the new motor with the old pump???
 
was it working before you worked on the pump?
Rob
Click to expand...
In fact it all started one day when I went on a walk; It started to rain; I wanted to close the hood and she did not want; Obliged to close in manual. So I immediately thought of the immersed engine; But leaving it from its location it was in perfect condition. I then thought of the hydraulic block; I ordered a new but still the same.

Need I be the one to ask this? Are you operating the roof with the engine running? Mine is a bit like this when doing it from the battery sometimes and needs a little help to get it started.
Click to expand...

Whether I operate the engine roof or not it is the same.
I also used a battery charger and connected it live to the engine; the same.
 
When I open the roof; The locks work, but I have no pressure in the circuit; as if the by pass was activated; The pressure returns when I am about 1/4 of the complete opening; And there I can finish the sequence normally.
 
When you say you replaced the hydraulic system do you mean the hinge lifters or the tops electric motor/pump?
Click to expand...
I changed the hydraulic group in the trunk

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61eNScRVbCL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

You said in your original post that when you push the top-down button, the top will release from the windshield frame and then stop moving, is that correct. If yes, then go and do it. However, after the top stops moving, get out the car and attempt to manually push the top down.
Click to expand...

I will make a new video :wink:
 
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