Roof problem

Phoenixboy

Phoenixboy

Senior member
 english riviera
Roof was working fine yesterday.
This morning, rear section opened and folds on to the roof and then boing red light and stops.
Rac came out, but as expected, they can’t do a lot.
There diagnostics show nothing.
Had a previous issue which was a wire on one side frayed, so had both sides done.
Was able to manually close the roof/rear section, but as it’s not locking down, the windows won’t go up, and boot can’t be opened.
All it will do now when pushing button is raise about 6” and sort of bounce but go no further, and then drop down again.
Initial thoughts after seeking advice is possibly wire again rather than a sensor, as I’m lead to believe a sensor would normally allow a stage of the opening to complete and then stop?
Off to the dealer in the morning 🤔, but any advice would be good. Thanks guys.
 
Sorry to hear you’re having problems with the roof, hope it’s not an expensive fix.
 
First part of the fault was like mine which was a microswitch - the glass section would raise but the boot would not lock in place at all and it wasn't showing up on the RAC diagnostics either but took an hour to get it to close after much messing about.
 
Phoenixboy said:
@RobbiZ4 any thoughts on this please.
Click to expand...
:oops:

Broken wires in the rear roof shell in the upper, non visible section on the right or on the left. All sensors (microswitch, hallsensor) are ok, even if a fault code indicates the opposite.

I'd take the roof shell off and replace the wires on both sides with LiFY wires.
It's the standard on our E89's, each will run into this problem.
 
Thanks Robbi, I suspect a wire issue , even though they fixed broken wire previously.
They said they did both sides.
Will update as soon as they get on to it.
Am going to get the salmon relays replaced.
If it’s not a wire, would it likely be a sensor?
 
Phoenixboy said:
Thanks Robbi, I suspect a wire issue , even though they fixed broken wire previously.
They said they did both sides.
Will update as soon as they get on to it.
Am going to get the salmon relays replaced.
If it’s not a wire, would it likely be a sensor?
Click to expand...
Replacing the relays is the most important task, but currently you are not able to get down to it. :rofl:

Phoenixboy said:
They said they did both sides.
Click to expand...
Without removing the roof shell? Sounds strange and I don't beleive so.

Well, up to now a broken mircoswitch in the roof shell hardly occurs. Rarely the hall sensor on the right hydraulic ram in the rear roof shell might be rusty and doesn sent a proper signal. Then it should be replaced, can be done without removing the roof shell.

Your main problem will be getting into the trunk to loosen the front brass screw on top of the hydraulic pump to allow the rear roof shell to be moved manually.
 
"... and repair 2 broken wires.".
Obviously they only connected the 2 broken ends together, aka shortened a single broken wire.

There are 2 wires on the left, 2x2 wires on the right.

That's exactly what I"m always telling: get both sides repaired with new flexible wires.
And never ever use cable connectors in these critical areas, as they will break again.
 
Thanks a lot Robbi
I will ask that they replace the two wires on both sides, and change the relays.
Will update as soon as I have information.
 
I had one break and one about to as a pair on the right, then some months later one in the roof section.
Seems often roof moves and gets stuck as those broken wires separate, giving random stoppage.

In both cases the obd reader said sensor fault but it actually open circuit faults. Nothing wrong with the sensors.
Each sensor is not simply open or closed but is monitor by say a bypass resistor.
Good really because the faults then get flagged up on the obd and system freezes to save any damage (if inconvenient)..

Probably why it all starts with random bongs and warnings with roof down and locked.
 
Just noticed on your repair, "cable connector".
61138353746.jpg
I wonder if they have just stripped back and fitted.
Cable might now be too short and has pulled apart.
Really it needs an extra length of cable added to allow more give and needs to be flexible.
I used some old audio cable with those RCA connectors chopped off. Very flexible and added a loop to give it some free movement.
 
flybobbie said:
Just noticed on your repair, "cable connector".
61138353746.jpg
I wonder if they have just stripped back and fitted.
Cable might now be too short and has pulled apart.
Really it needs an extra length of cable added to allow more give and needs to be flexible.
I used some old audio cable with those RCA connectors chopped off. Very flexible and added a loop to give it some free movement.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate,
Have dropped the car off this morning.
Requested that the salmon relays be replaced.
Suggested that if there is a break in the wire that was there previous repair, could the wire be replaced with something more robust, and that I would prefer that connectors were not used.
Tried to remain polite but get my point over.
If it’s there previous repair, I asked if that would be treated accordingly.
I will politely ask the question when it is hopefully resolved, and hopefully there integrity will not allow them to charge for fixing a previous repair…
I try to give people the benefit of the doubt, as they were prompt and didn’t overcharge me on the previous repair.
 
Just to update on this.
Issue turned out to be a micro sensor .
Salmon relays were changed at my request.
Westerly went above and beyond to get the car done before the jubilee shut down despite me turning up unannounced on Monday morning, the car was collected at 5.00pm last night.
Car was also given a health check, video sent, with a slight lip on front discs being the only thing picked up on.
Whilst I don’t doubt that a good independent would possibly be cheaper, would they have been able to have taken the car in at no notice , ensure it was stored under cover for obvious reasons with roof issues, and then get on to it the following day and complete work the day after that.
Let’s say, the price was not excessive considering diagnostic charge, parts and labour, and I was happy to pay for the job to be done in such a quick turn around at short notice.
Main dealers seem to vary in levels of service and prices, but mine certainly seem to be fair, and go the extra mile.
And interestingly, the only Indy in Exeter that I spoke to, we’re not keen to tackle roof issues.
 
Phoenixboy said:
Just to update on this.
Issue turned out to be a micro sensor .
Salmon relays were changed at my request.
Westerly went above and beyond to get the car done before the jubilee shut down despite me turning up unannounced on Monday morning, the car was collected at 5.00pm last night.
Car was also given a health check, video sent, with a slight lip on front discs being the only thing picked up on.
Whilst I don’t doubt that a good independent would possibly be cheaper, would they have been able to have taken the car in at no notice , ensure it was stored under cover for obvious reasons with roof issues, and then get on to it the following day and complete work the day after that.
Let’s say, the price was not excessive considering diagnostic charge, parts and labour, and I was happy to pay for the job to be done in such a quick turn around at short notice.
Main dealers seem to vary in levels of service and prices, but mine certainly seem to be fair, and go the extra mile.
And interestingly, the only Indy in Exeter that I spoke to, we’re not keen to tackle roof issues.
Click to expand...

Main thing is the car is sorted and back with you in decent time, my indie took 2 days and he did store the car inside.

As long as you are happy with the price thats all that matters in reality and yes all dealers differ, not all Indies are great so it is swings n roundabouts
 
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