Roof not fully opening

mrmikes

Member
Hi wonder if anyone has any idea on this one I have this 27k miles 2013 Z4 that's been sat for over 2 years that I have been fixing. I have it fully up and running and now Mot tested but the roof only opens part way. As you can see in the picture the boot opens ready to take the roof it folds the rear window on the roof and the pump keeps on running but nothing happens. the code scanned is A6A1 (Drive for hardtop Locking). Lucky it allows me to put the roof back up from this position.

any help of where to start looking would be great thanks
 

Attachments

  • 481515245_1313524899887603_5496818317696247172_n.jpg
    481515245_1313524899887603_5496818317696247172_n.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 965
I believe that’s a hall sensor fault..search the forums here ..probably the most problematic issue on E89s on this forum
 
couldn't find much related to code A6A
1have sent off for a pair of boot ram sensors as seen a few videos mention this as sometimes a cause for this and the 1 and 2 series sensors where only £14 each. Figures crossed that maybe the fix.
 
So have you got a bmw specific fault code reader ?..what does it say?

That error code doesn’t correlate with the well known micro switch issue..
 
well ISTA+ dont show up a fault on the CTM for some reason where my Launch gives code A6A1 which would be CTM 00A6A1
 
mrmikes said:
well ISTA+ dont show up a fault on the CTM for some reason where my Launch gives code A6A1 which would be CTM 00A6A1

CTM module is not very helpful in its diagnostics
 
Look see if the connector is lose on the boot ram right side, one nearest rear.. System is trying to see that ram has reached it's stop on the hall sensor.
I had same but roof was in boot, boot stuck open.
 
Easy going, forget any fault codes!

Just follow the topics of the maintenance list and it will operate as intended. :thumbsup:
 
Cheers for all the suggestions I just need to hope it stays dry long enough to fault find.

I had a closer look at the sensor I removed and I dont think it looks in very good condition but I am no expert in hall sensors but I do have 2 new ones coming soon.
ATTACH]

As this car was sat a long time and had a bad battery which caused the Valvtronic motor to fail I am getting a feeling could the front drive locking motor have failed and that's what is causing the roof not to move. I see the wires to this are on a sperate plug in the CTM. Is anyway to easly test this thought?
 
Morning,
The hall sensor on the picture should be ok. Do you have a similiar pic of the 2nd one in the exact same position?

Front locking systems hardly ever fail on the E89. Your assumption is very doubtfull.
The motor can be tested by just putting VCC and Ground on any pole of the 2-pole plug, but it will be ok.
 
Hall sensor replaced but still no difference and Doubtful as my assumption was I tried applying power to the front unlocking motor wires( the 2pin plug from the CTM, All I get in either direction is a dull donk sound the same it does when using the roof button. So sounds like the front of the roof is some how seized or the motor has given up. Would I be right in thinking my next move is to remove the roof lining to gain access to it. Not a job a wanted to do but looks like that's what its going to be.
 
mrmikes said:
Hall sensor replaced but still no difference and Doubtful as my assumption was I tried applying power to the front unlocking motor wires( the 2pin plug from the CTM, All I get in either direction is a dull donk sound the same it does when using the roof button. So sounds like the front of the roof is some how seized or the motor has given up. Would I be right in thinking my next move is to remove the roof lining to gain access to it. Not a job a wanted to do but looks like that's what its going to be.
As it seems you are proving [ref]RobbiZ4[/ref] correct, may I respectfully suggest you follow his maintenance guide?
If you doubt him, then a five minute search on the forum will quickly prove that he is 'THE WORLD EXPERT' on E89 roof issues. I have yet to see him stuck, or proved wrong. :thumbsup:
If you follow his guide to the letter and are still stuck then at least he will have a defined starting point to be able to help you further.
 
Think you have miss read or miss understood my reply to him, I carried out the test of the motor he told me to do and have relayed my findings. I am not looking to prove anyone incorrect or correct. I am just trying to find the fault with my roof not carry out a full on Maintenance program, I do find RobbiZ4 write up very helpful. I am not keeping this car and I will direct the next owner to this forum and its helpful info.
 
mrmikes said:
Think you have miss read or miss understood my reply to him, I carried out the test of the motor he told me to do and have relayed my findings. I am not looking to prove anyone incorrect or correct. I am just trying to find the fault with my roof not carry out a full on Maintenance program, I do find RobbiZ4 write up very helpful. I am not keeping this car and I will direct the next owner to this forum and its helpful info.
I probably have then. Apologies.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Do you have a similiar pic of the 2nd hall sensor in the exact same position?
No answer.

mrmikes said:
I tried applying power to the front unlocking motor wires( the 2pin plug from the CTM, All I get in either direction is a dull donk sound the same it does when using the roof button.
Well, the fault code leads to the front locking system, that is correct.

Plug connected from the CTM before powering up?
If you hear a "sound" powering up the two motor wires on the CTM plug, the motor will start running. As this motor takes about 10-15A, did you connect it straight to the battery poles?

There is no option to turn this motor manually. But, it can be accessed by INPA as well as ISTA.
I have never heard or seen a front locking motor that makes a noise but doesn't turn one way or the other. It would be the first I get knowledge of.

mrmikes said:
...my next move is to remove the roof lining to gain access to it.
I don't know if that is possible at all with a completely locked front panel. Keep in mind, that a new linning will cost about 700(!) Euros if it will break through when tearing it down. It is attached using 6 or 8 clips that are difficult to remove from the panel.
 
Wow, 1st video after beeing 14 years registered on YT! :thumbsup:



But I'm still missing the info about the 2nd hall sensor on the right ram!
Which one got replaced, what about the other?

I'm pretty sure the CTM is waiting on the correct sensor signal before starting to open the front latch.
 
Lol I do Have 3 youTube accounts but I sure aint no Tuber :) sorry for not getting a pic of the boot ram sensor its In a tricky place to get a pic. I replaced the one closest to the back of the seat I have not touched the other sensor yet.

But it take it sending power direct to the motor and it still wont move so the front part of the roof catch or motor must be jammed in position.
 
mrmikes said:
Sorry for not getting a pic of the boot ram sensor its In a tricky place to get a pic. I replaced the one closest to the back of the seat I have not touched the other sensor yet.
Well, I know.

But like everything in life, the easiest path is usually not the path to success. :rofl:

The 1st is only responsible for the short timing pause while closing the trunk lid. Absolutely uncritical. 8)
The 2nd one is detecting the position of the trunk lid. If the lid stands vertically, this 2nd sensor sends a signal to the CTM, which opens the front locking system. There was a minor timing change in it's software between the first models from 2009 and the newer ones as of ~2011.

The 2nd hall sensor is fixed by a zip tie. This has to be cutted at first and finally replaced by a new one. Absolutely important.
 
Back
Top Bottom