Roof not closing

M

Monster666

Member
Hi - can someone point me in the direction of a fluid flow chart for the roadster roof ie which way does the pressure go from the motor for opening & closing. The tubes are marked 11&12 and 13&14 which go from the motor to each side of the roof.

When pressing the open button my roof unlatches, opens fully & the latches retract. When trying to close it the latches move but the motor&pump do not seem to produce enough pressure to open the roof. You can see the roof slightly moving when the button is pressed and can hear the motor &pump working. [Pump has been relocated to boot and I just fitted a new pump&motor from roofmotors as I though that may be the problem. But it isn't. ]

If I assist the roof past the half way closing point then it will close just by continuing to press the button. If I assist the roof whilst pressing the close button to past the half way point then release the button the roof will slowly descend to the closed position.

Thanks
 
Fluid level looks good, no obvious signs of fluid in the area of the mechanism to indicate leaks. If I can find out which way the fluid goes then by switching the pipes I can try & isolate the problem.
 
Someone else had a similar problem a week or two back I think. It got as far as suggesting it may be a faulty seal in the rams, allowing fluid to pass from one side to the other without moving the piston. However, I'm not sure if we ever saw any feedback on how this issue was resolved.
 
Simple pressure test:

Engage red emergency by-pass in trunk. Press top down...it should release from windshield and stop. Now disengage red-handle by-pass so that the top is back on auto system. Now manually attempt to push the top down. If your hydo system is intact, it should feel like your pushing on a brick wall. This is a closed very high pressure system and to move it manually should be very, very difficult. If you can move it, there's a problem with the systems pressure.

Since you have fluid, the problem could be a faulty emergency-by pass or the seals are shot on the hinge lifters (rams). Although it's new, you might consider removing the emergency release from the pump and trying to lower/raise the top. If the problem is still there after removing the by-pass, then the only part remaining which could cause this are bad seals on the hinge lifters.
 
enuff_zed said:
Someone else had a similar problem a week or two back I think. It got as far as suggesting it may be a faulty seal in the rams, allowing fluid to pass from one side to the other without moving the piston. However, I'm not sure if we ever saw any feedback on how this issue was resolved.
Click to expand...

^^^This. I don't think the OP ever came back to confirm either way unfortunately. This was the thread:

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=121329&hilit=hydraulic&start=15
 
ph001 said:
enuff_zed said:
Someone else had a similar problem a week or two back I think. It got as far as suggesting it may be a faulty seal in the rams, allowing fluid to pass from one side to the other without moving the piston. However, I'm not sure if we ever saw any feedback on how this issue was resolved.
Click to expand...

^^^This. I don't think the OP ever came back to confirm either way unfortunately. This was the thread:

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=121329&hilit=hydraulic&start=15
Click to expand...

It was me who started that tread and have a solution - faulty hinge lifter (ram). Driver side.
First I’ve checked all the common ones - motor, brass pin, hoses are plugged in correctly, enough hydraulic fluid, even bought full hydro unit but none of them fixed the roof.
What I did to diagnose ram seals was:
roof of the car and unplugged hoses. Got some air compressor and put some pressure through one off the holes to see if it’s going to move the cylinder. As I was expecting air came out through other hole. So I was 100% sure that internal seals are worn and if air can get through them with small pressure (less than 15psi/1bar) than hydraulic fluid will go as well. Changed hinge, topped up with fresh hydraulic fluid, moved it manually to get rid of air and now roof is working.
11&13 are for opening and 12&14 are for closing the roof (I’m not sure but that’s how I’ve remembered it)
Fingers crossed that you’ll get it sorted soon.
 
Strayker270 said:
ph001 said:
enuff_zed said:
Someone else had a similar problem a week or two back I think. It got as far as suggesting it may be a faulty seal in the rams, allowing fluid to pass from one side to the other without moving the piston. However, I'm not sure if we ever saw any feedback on how this issue was resolved.
Click to expand...

^^^This. I don't think the OP ever came back to confirm either way unfortunately. This was the thread:

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=121329&hilit=hydraulic&start=15
Click to expand...

It was me who started that tread and have a solution - faulty hinge lifter (ram). Driver side.
First I’ve checked all the common ones - motor, brass pin, hoses are plugged in correctly, enough hydraulic fluid, even bought full hydro unit but none of them fixed the roof.
What I did to diagnose ram seals was:
roof of the car and unplugged hoses. Got some air compressor and put some pressure through one off the holes to see if it’s going to move the cylinder. As I was expecting air came out through other hole. So I was 100% sure that internal seals are worn and if air can get through them with small pressure (less than 15psi/1bar) than hydraulic fluid will go as well. Changed hinge, topped up with fresh hydraulic fluid, moved it manually to get rid of air and now roof is working.
11&13 are for opening and 12&14 are for closing the roof (I’m not sure but that’s how I’ve remembered it)
Fingers crossed that you’ll get it sorted soon.
Click to expand...

Thanks everyone - next stop look at the seals in the rams
 
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