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Number5 said:
Not good buddy
Roof motor
- Thread starter Tysonwills
- Start date
Not good buddy
Tysonwills
Member
Hi Pabby1980 have you got DLV details cant seem to find him on here
[ref]Number5[/ref],
Hi Number 5, I'm in Bristol and have a 2006 2.0 litre Z4 and my roof only closed about 1/4 of the way up and stopped, I pressed the open button and it went back in to the boot. I'm not sure if its the motor or any switches.You were recommended for roof motor repairs at a reasonable cost on this forum and I was wondering if you could take a look. If you could pm me that would be great
Hi Number 5, I'm in Bristol and have a 2006 2.0 litre Z4 and my roof only closed about 1/4 of the way up and stopped, I pressed the open button and it went back in to the boot. I'm not sure if its the motor or any switches.You were recommended for roof motor repairs at a reasonable cost on this forum and I was wondering if you could take a look. If you could pm me that would be great
Marlon said:Tysonwills said:
Motors very rarely need replacing if the right guy is on the job, it can be revived/overhauled and then relocate to the boot.
Its worth mentioning that it's down to the ingenuity of a handful of members that have worked out how to do it without taking the roof off! The costs for replacement motors at dealers is £500 upwards, these forum guys will fix it and relocate for a fraction of the cost. I should know - I've had mine done
I've done a lot of these now, probably a couple of dozen on here, but over 125 for dealers etc, I have NEVER had to replace a motor, no matter how badly corroded they have been. They are very robust, and if need be I can strip one in 5 mins to get it going again.
Mike
giz said:
All sorted yesterday for Giz (Wayne) a very wet motor that was completely dead when he arrived but he left a happy man with all relocated and working again.
Extracting the motor from its housing
The state of the drowned motor
The water trapped in the housing pod
:? This thread is suggesting 'Not to worry if your roof motor fails' - FALSE! :thumbsdown:
From my own experiences and other forum members and Z4 owners i know its not as straight forward, and the Almost 100% records being touted about are more like 70-30.
Yes there are some great examples of heavily corroded motors being rejuvenated, but theres plenty that are not salvageable especially if the small internal circuit board becomes corroded.
Ive had my motor relocated by a forum member, and i am very happy with the job, but the motor was f@$ked, so i purchased a reconditioned one from www.roofmotors.co.uk for £170.
Obviously i am now going to get told other wise, but i think its irresponsible to inform new forum members there virtually always fixable.
From my own experiences and other forum members and Z4 owners i know its not as straight forward, and the Almost 100% records being touted about are more like 70-30.
Yes there are some great examples of heavily corroded motors being rejuvenated, but theres plenty that are not salvageable especially if the small internal circuit board becomes corroded.
Ive had my motor relocated by a forum member, and i am very happy with the job, but the motor was f@$ked, so i purchased a reconditioned one from www.roofmotors.co.uk for £170.
Obviously i am now going to get told other wise, but i think its irresponsible to inform new forum members there virtually always fixable.
ESP said:
Sorry, but I disagree. I have done in excess of 150 repairs/relocations, and have seen some very sorry motors. Corroded circuit boards with broken tracks, brush leads turned to powder and capacitors fallen to bits. WITHOUT EXCEPTION, I have repaired EVERY one. Some take longer than others, especially where the brush leads have rotted away, but they have all been successfully repaired by me. Without mentioning names, there is even another member on here that relocates motors, and has actually sent some to me for repair as they couldn't get them going, again all of those were returned working to them.
So I think in fact, that I am pretty well placed to be able to say that I can repair them, because my record IS 100%.
Mike
Well I personally can't boast the same success record as Mike (DLV).
I'd say I've probably done about 20-25 motors and have had 2 that wouldn't spin at all and 2 that would only spin intermittently without needing a helping hand. (Worn bushes meaning it depended where they stopped as to whether they'd start again unaided)
Therefore my success rate on reviving rusty motors is probably about 85%
Some will go but I don't know if the owners have then had to change them subsequently, which is easier once they are accessible. I'm sure some will work repeatedly immediately after some TLC and relocation when they leave me, but try them again after standing still a week or two and they may not be so reliable.
The whole point of moving it is to future protect it but also to make it accessible if it does need changing at any point there on.
I'd say I've probably done about 20-25 motors and have had 2 that wouldn't spin at all and 2 that would only spin intermittently without needing a helping hand. (Worn bushes meaning it depended where they stopped as to whether they'd start again unaided)
Therefore my success rate on reviving rusty motors is probably about 85%
Some will go but I don't know if the owners have then had to change them subsequently, which is easier once they are accessible. I'm sure some will work repeatedly immediately after some TLC and relocation when they leave me, but try them again after standing still a week or two and they may not be so reliable.
The whole point of moving it is to future protect it but also to make it accessible if it does need changing at any point there on.
Number5 said:
It's corrosion on the commutator that causes them to work intermittently. Left in water over winter etc, it builds up, but not so much where the brushes actually rest against it, so if it stops with the brushes on the clean section, it will start again. Telltale is if it spins into life when the shaft is rotated by hand with power applied.
I strip EVERY failed motor and clean them up properly, so they continue to work.
Mike
My roof motor problem is now sorted, in my haste to get the roof down with a non operational motor, it jammed and in a fit of childish rage I pushed it too hard and with a loud pop and a mist of hydraulic fluid, I now have a sheared hydraulic line.
The plus side is once I push the button to release the hood all I have to do is gently tug the top and it falls down and stows itself, putting it up is just a release the catch and push the roof up, 10 second job, downside is I have a swimming pool of hydraulic fluid stuck in the motor stowage as well as the water.... :roll:
The plus side is once I push the button to release the hood all I have to do is gently tug the top and it falls down and stows itself, putting it up is just a release the catch and push the roof up, 10 second job, downside is I have a swimming pool of hydraulic fluid stuck in the motor stowage as well as the water.... :roll:
Wafoo said:
Do you know which hose it is, they are numbered 10,11,12 and 13 just near the banjo connectors on the pump. I can replace any of them, even 11 without removing the whole roof. The hoses can be bought for around £60 each from https://www.cabriolet-roof-hoses.com
Mike
Matthew. said:Is there a guide on how to clear the drains? I did this on my old MX5 and lots of water poured out!
I cleaned my drains and water came out, but when the motor was moved to the boot, it was still sat in a pool of mucky water/slime. :roll:
Just a stupid place to put the motor in the first place.