Roof motor relocated, now not moving roof

V

Voguely

Member
Hi all,

Thanks for those who've previously posted guides for how to relocate roof motor via the side of the boot.

After much contortion in the boot yesterday I finally managed to get the motor out of the (very soggy) well and into the boot area.

The roof was working beforehand but had been becoming sluggish on the way back up, so I'd guessed it was flooded and wanted to move it before it completely died.

After much faffing I got it into the boot area. The motor is working when roof button is pressed, but the roof doesn't go down. It's unlatching fine at the front, moves about an inch then stops. The shelf switch is depressed as it should be.

My only guess is that there is something not right with the hydraulics, although the fluid level seems fine and I can't see any leaks anywhere.

Any ideas what else could be causing this issue? Happy to bring it to anyone nearby if there are any resident experts in the Essex (or close county) area?

Thanks in advance!
 
You say it moves an inch and then stops - does the motor keep running when the roof stops moving? Or does the roof stop moving because the motor stops running?
 
wonkydonkey said:
You say it moves an inch and then stops - does the motor keep running when the roof stops moving? Or does the roof stop moving because the motor stops running?
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The motor keeps running. I don't think it's the motor which moves it the first little bit, my understanding is that that is moved by virtue of the releases on the top of the screen opening and slightly pushing back the roof. I don't think the motor is moving the roof at all at the moment, just seems to be spinning and doing nothing.
 
Have you returned the hydraulic bypass to its rest position (the plastic hook on the left hand side of the boot)? To bypass the motor, the hook is pulled out (applying tension to the cable). To engage the motor, the hook is returned inside its plastic housing, allowing the cable to go slack. Have a look at your motor when you operate the bypass cable - you should see the lever arm at the motor end moving in and out. Even though the hook itself may be in the correct position and the cable slack, the mechanism at the motor end might be stuck in the "bypass" position.
 
wonkydonkey said:
Have a look at your motor when you operate the bypass cable - you should see the lever arm at the motor end moving in and out. Even though the hook itself may be in the correct position and the cable slack, the mechanism at the motor end might be stuck in the "bypass" position.
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Hi, thanks for the quick and helpful reply. I can confirm the bypass pull cord hook is in the correct postion, i.e. not pulled out.

I'm not sure what you mean by the lever arm at the motor end. Is it something attached to the motor itself or further down the cabling? Don't suppose you have a picture or diagram to demonstrate which part you are talking about do you?
 
Follow the bypass cable from the hook down to the motor end. You'll see the lever arm I mean. If you then watch it while you pull the hook in and out you'll see it operating :)
 
Ah yes, found what you mean. I had a real hope of excitement when I found it not to be in total slack position at the motor end! Alas, on pushing it to fully relaxed position and tried to operate the motor again it still didn't move the roof :(

Any other ideas? Thank you so much for the ideas so far, very much appriciated!
 
Well you might almost be there. I think I've read that the bypass valves themselves (the bit that the lever arm is operating inside) often get sticky and need freeing off. Worth doing a search on here. I think they're serviceable and it seems very common in these older cars that if you operate the bypass for the first time, it won't reset.
 
You need to remove the black plastic cover over the release valve, 3 x 2mm hex heads, then remove the 4mm hex head plug at the opposite end on the other side of the pump. Then insert the 4mm hex head socket into the hole and tap lightly to release the seized bypass plunger, which will pop out proud by about 2mm. Reassemble and it will work, don't reattach the end of the bowden cable as it tends to depress the plunger again.

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
You need to remove the black plastic cover over the release valve, 3 x 2mm hex heads, then remove the 4mm hex head plug at the opposite end on the other side of the pump. Then insert the 4mm hex head socket into the hole and tap lightly to release the seized bypass plunger, which will pop out proud by about 2mm. Reassemble and it will work, don't reattach the end of the bowden cable as it tends to depress the plunger again.

Mike
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Yep. it will be the brass valve stuck in, even thought he lever has moved away from it. Follow Mikes instructions above, then report back.
 
You bloody legends! That was it! Plunger was stuck in below it's cover. Managed to pull it out with some pliers and now it's all working a treat! Huurah!

Thanks guys!!!! :D :D :D :driving: :thumbsup:
 
Voguely said:
You bloody legends! That was it! Plunger was stuck in below it's cover. Managed to pull it out with some pliers and now it's all working a treat! Huurah!
Thanks guys!!!! :D :D :D :driving: :thumbsup:
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Happy days..

Mike
 
Number5 said:
Ducklakeview said:
You need to remove the black plastic cover over the release valve, 3 x 2mm hex heads, then remove the 4mm hex head plug at the opposite end on the other side of the pump. Then insert the 4mm hex head socket into the hole and tap lightly to release the seized bypass plunger, which will pop out proud by about 2mm. Reassemble and it will work, don't reattach the end of the bowden cable as it tends to depress the plunger again.

fwto or video please..??
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Click to expand...
 
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