Roof Motor Question

N

Nocturnal

Member
Hello,

I have replaced my motor and relocated it to the trunk. However, I often have to push the roof up on the driver side while holding down the button to retract the roof. Is there anything I can fix it, so that I don’t have to physically push it up and aid the motor?

Thanks
 
Sounds like your roof pump head is struggling

If you swap the ports over on the pump so up becomes down, and vice versa, gravity will help it go down and the stronger side of the pump will get it back up ok
 
bigwinn said:
Sounds like your roof pump head is struggling

If you swap the ports over on the pump so up becomes down, and vice versa, gravity will help it go down and the stronger side of the pump will get it back up ok
Click to expand...

I see, I did replace the fluid in the pump head. When it’s down, the reservoir appears full. Is the cause for this that my motor is weak? To switch the lines, would I undo these two cables and swap them? Do I need to be careful of like bleeding the system or is it an easy swap of the two cables?

IMG_3401.jpeg
IMG_3415.jpeg

Thank you!!!
 
Your level looks ok- assume it’s not losing fluid at all?

If you swap the hoses over but keep them in the same sequence (you swap the left bolt hoses with the right and vice versa) you’ll lose some fluid but the system is self bleeding

And I think you’ll need to change the electric connectors over as you are just reversing the function of the pump
 
The pumps do fail over time but usually in one direction

It’s worth seeing if that improves things
 
Whilst Stuart is likely to be correct, as I can't quite make it out on the photos, just check that the lever that operates the bypass plunger is fully out. If it is slightly depressed (like me as my holiday is over :D ), then it can let a little bit of pressure seep by when the pump is working hardest.
 
bigwinn said:
The pumps do fail over time but usually in one direction

It’s worth seeing if that improves things
Click to expand...
Oh okay, I do have a new non oem pump from when I ordered the original electric motor. Is it worth giving that a try?
 
enuff_zed said:
Whilst Stuart is likely to be correct, as I can't quite make it out on the photos, just check that the lever that operates the bypass plunger is fully out. If it is slightly depressed (like me as my holiday is over :D ), then it can let a little bit of pressure seep by when the pump is sworking hardest.
Click to expand...

The red lever in the trunk is fully pressed in, here is another angle

IMG_3414.jpegIMG_3409.jpeg
IMG_3408.jpeg

Thanks!
 
Nocturnal said:
enuff_zed said:
Whilst Stuart is likely to be correct, as I can't quite make it out on the photos, just check that the lever that operates the bypass plunger is fully out. If it is slightly depressed (like me as my holiday is over :D ), then it can let a little bit of pressure seep by when the pump is sworking hardest.
Click to expand...
The red lever in the trunk is fully pressed in, here is another angle
Click to expand...
Yes but the cable sometimes get tight when it is moved to a different angle to locate the motor in the boot. To me it looks as though the lever is not fully across to the right in your photo.
Follow the cable from the red ring towards the pump. Along the left side of the roof you will see a white threaded adjuster. Turn it to shorten its overall length and you will see the cable at the pump end slacken. This may allow the lever to move out and take pressure off the bypass valve.
In fact, simply unbolt the black plastic cage and remove the lever assembly from the pump. Make sure the plunger is fully out and see if the roof works properly. If it does, then you can go back to the adjuster as I described.
If it makes no difference then, as I initially said, [ref]bigwinn[/ref] is correct, and I apologise for wasting your time.
 
I agree with Martin

No harm in taking the plastic mech that depresses the bypass in

If it’s depressed even a fraction it makes a difference
 
enuff_zed said:
Nocturnal said:
enuff_zed said:
Whilst Stuart is likely to be correct, as I can't quite make it out on the photos, just check that the lever that operates the bypass plunger is fully out. If it is slightly depressed (like me as my holiday is over :D ), then it can let a little bit of pressure seep by when the pump is sworking hardest.
Click to expand...
The red lever in the trunk is fully pressed in, here is another angle
Click to expand...
Yes but the cable sometimes get tight when it is moved to a different angle to locate the motor in the boot. To me it looks as though the lever is not fully across to the right in your photo.
Follow the cable from the red ring towards the pump. Along the left side of the roof you will see a white threaded adjuster. Turn it to shorten its overall length and you will see the cable at the pump end slacken. This may allow the lever to move out and take pressure off the bypass valve.
In fact, simply unbolt the black plastic cage and remove the lever assembly from the pump. Make sure the plunger is fully out and see if the roof works properly. If it does, then you can go back to the adjuster as I described.
If it makes no difference then, as I initially said, [ref]bigwinn[/ref] is correct, and I apologise for wasting your time.
Click to expand...
bigwinn said:
I agree with Martin

No harm in taking the plastic mech that depresses the bypass in

If it’s depressed even a fraction it makes a difference
Click to expand...

Hello, I have replaced the motor and the pump with a new motor and pump. Unfortunately, I am still having the same behavior. Compared to the original OEM pump and motor, the new system is very soft when it closes.

Here is a photo, I also refilled the pump with new CHF 202.
image.jpg

Any help would be very much appreciated! I also ran the system back and forth several times to bleed.
 
Just to clarify your symptoms

The roof is slow to open in one direction but ok in the other?

And you are not losing fluid at all?
 
Apologies if I missed it, but have you checked that the bypass plunger is fully out? I can see you have removed the lever from it but did you check it is free to move in and out ok?
Is the pump head actually new or secondhand?
 
bigwinn said:
Just to clarify your symptoms

The roof is slow to open in one direction but ok in the other?

And you are not losing fluid at all?
Click to expand...

Pump is not able to take the roof off the clips (when going up).I can hear it working, but needs me to fully push it up.

enuff_zed said:
Apologies if I missed it, but have you checked that the bypass plunger is fully out? I can see you have removed the lever from it but did you check it is free to move in and out ok?
Is the pump head actually new or secondhand?
Click to expand...

Pump head is new. I took out the lever, do I need to do something else? Was under assumption that the lever was applying the pressure leak if applicable, so by removing it, it would eliminate that concern.

Thanks guys!!
 
Also, if the information is helpful. Compared to the original pump, it used to slam the roof into position when coming down. Now the new pump is very gentle and feels like it’s pushing it at every inch when going down.
 
I’m gravitating toward one of the rams having seal issues- assuming that you deffo don’t have any fluid loss at all…

If the same issue is there with two separate pump heads and motors I think it would be unlikely that the same problem persisted there
 
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