Hi all, finding my roof on my 2006 2.5 needs help to close. Have to hold button and lift up the roof approximately 1/4 of its cycle, after that point it closes fine on its own. Roof opens fine. Weak motor or something sticking somewhere? Weak battery? The roof motors still in its original location. Any help appreciated
Roof motor needs some help when closing
- Thread starter g.couler
- Start date
Welcome aboard. That sounds to me like the hydraulic pump is starting to die.g.couler said:
A short term fix is to swap the pipes and wires over so it is weak going down but has gravity to help it. (As taught by Number5 :wink: )
However, to do that it needs to move to the boot first so you may as well look into getting the pump replaced too.
Whereabouts are you? If you don't fancy doing it yourself there are various options for people to do it for you:
Bristol (Number5) - Lincoln (bigwinn) - Northeast (street or Durham Dave) - Hampshire (RBM) - Norfolk (me)
Thanks for the reply, love the name btw. Ok that makes sense. I'm tempted to leave it for now and get it all sorted at once as you say, with a relocation. I'm over in Exeter so a trip to Bristol would make the most sense to see Number 5. Am I doing any more harm by helping it up in this way? And silly question but are we talking about the same thing when I say motor and you hydraulic pump?
Won’t hurt to give it a little help but don’t force it against hydraulic pressure.g.couler said:
If you look at EBay or search on here you’ll find lots of photos. The pump is a square block with a spacer underneath it and the motor bolted to it, all in one unit.
I’m happy to help if needed.
As said above, it’s best to relocate into the corner of the boot and then fit a new pump head at the same time.
Let me know if you wish to discuss further
My details and info are here:
https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-part-accessories/bmw-z4-e85-roof-motor-relocation-repair/1378076429
Alan
As said above, it’s best to relocate into the corner of the boot and then fit a new pump head at the same time.
Let me know if you wish to discuss further
My details and info are here:
https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-part-accessories/bmw-z4-e85-roof-motor-relocation-repair/1378076429
Alan
Hi all,
I've managed to get my motor out but I want to detach the hydraulic cables but when I undo them, fluid starts flowing out.
Any ideas to remove the hydraulic lines without losing all the fluid are welcomed.
Cheers
I've managed to get my motor out but I want to detach the hydraulic cables but when I undo them, fluid starts flowing out.
Any ideas to remove the hydraulic lines without losing all the fluid are welcomed.
Cheers
Big rag underneath to catch the fluid, then refill with hydraulic jack oil when you reinstall it.AaronMaguire said:
Then operate it standing up i the boot first as the level will drop as it self bleeds.
Top up the fluid until it spills out the top, as this ensures the ports are covered when it's at an angle.
Be sure to note which lines go where and which way round the electrical connectors are.
Pipes 11/13 togethwer and 12/14 together.
Thanks heaps. Awesome advice. Will jump on it in the morning.
Update on my roof motor situation and a question.
I bought a new motor from a Melbourne distributor who gets them from China.
It has a red dot for the positive but my original one doesn't.
I've marked the connections for the original motor but now I have the new motor I need to know which wire is the positive one. Green or Blue. What if I get it wrong?
If anyone can let me know that'd be great.
I bought a new motor from a Melbourne distributor who gets them from China.
It has a red dot for the positive but my original one doesn't.
I've marked the connections for the original motor but now I have the new motor I need to know which wire is the positive one. Green or Blue. What if I get it wrong?
If anyone can let me know that'd be great.
OK so I managed to install it after replacing the washers.
I replaced the hydraulic fluid with hydraulic jack fluid, low viscosity (ISO32) as advised through forums.
It's super noisy and seems like it gets stuck half way.
The cables aren't twisted but maybe I'll check that again.
It's installed on the rear wall between the cabin and boot/trunk.
It is lying on it's side.
Should it be installed standing up?
Any advice would be great.
I replaced the hydraulic fluid with hydraulic jack fluid, low viscosity (ISO32) as advised through forums.
It's super noisy and seems like it gets stuck half way.
The cables aren't twisted but maybe I'll check that again.
It's installed on the rear wall between the cabin and boot/trunk.
It is lying on it's side.
Should it be installed standing up?
Any advice would be great.
Most likely drawing in air. That always makes it noisy.AaronMaguire said:
Top it to the brim, not just the plus mark, then install it in as vertical a position as you can manage.
If it really has to be at an angle then orientate it so that the unions are facing downwards.
As per my previous reply, when you first operate it the level will drop, so you need to do a few up and downs and top ups to get the whole system full again.
When you say the Unions, are you referring to the hydraulic hoses mounting points on the motor body?enuff_zed said:
Awesome. I had my wife push the button as I filled the reservoir.
I then mounted it on the left side. There’s one hydraulic cable that has very little play.
I then mounted it on the left side. There’s one hydraulic cable that has very little play.
It does. Perfectly. Thanks so much. How do I post a pic? Sorry I can’t find how.
