Roof Motor Issue - Already Relocated to Boot

[SonnyA85]

So my roof motor was already relocated to the boot a few years ago. Probably about 6 years now. The car has been parked up for the past 2 years and just before that happened I did notice it was having issues opening fully. Like it would open 99% then need a little press down to lock it in at the back. But it was working fine.

2 years later. Car hasn't moved. Got everything working again so I can drive it. Go to put the roof down and I press the button and nothing. No light, no noise, nothing. I checked the fuses well 2 of them the big bad boy up the top right second one in from the filled spaces will need a set of pliers to get out. I'll let the mechanic have a look at that fuse but the 2 others were okay.

Now I have a gap tech module fitted somewhere under the cigarette lighter. My mechanic was working on freeing the shift lock which meant he had to tear the whole middle bit apart. Could he have pulled a wire out by mistake?

I have heard of the wiring near the passenger window up top breaking. How would you test for this other than rip the whole car apart and look at the whole length of wire?

Any other ideas?

 

[enuff_zed]

I can't completely help other than say I had one where that big fuse had blown. it's the main power feed to the pump.
The gaptech module could well cause a bit of confusion in diagnosis.

However, I too had the issue where the roof would not quite lock down.
If you look either side of the roof, at the rear corner of the side windows, you'll see a plastic strip stitched into the material as a strengthener.
This gets brittle and snaps.
Then what happens is, as the roof folds back, the small triangle of material that is formed folds inwards instead of outwards. This is enough extra bulk to prevent the roof locking down. Wifey's does it all the time and it took weeks of faffing to discover the problem.
Simply by half folding the roof, then stopping and pulling those folds outwards, the roof will then stow and lock down properly.

This won't fix your main problem of course, but when you get it working again, check and see if that fold is going correctly.

 

[SonnyA85]

I can't completely help other than say I had one where that big fuse had blown. it's the main power feed to the pump.
The gaptech module could well cause a bit of confusion in diagnosis.

However, I too had the issue where the roof would not quite lock down.
If you look either side of the roof, at the rear corner of the side windows, you'll see a plastic strip stitched into the material as a strengthener.
This gets brittle and snaps.
Then what happens is, as the roof folds back, the small triangle of material that is formed folds inwards instead of outwards. This is enough extra bulk to prevent the roof locking down. Wifey's does it all the time and it took weeks of faffing to discover the problem.
Simply by half folding the roof, then stopping and pulling those folds outwards, the roof will then stow and lock down properly.

This won't fix your main problem of course, but when you get it working again, check and see if that fold is going correctly.

Thanks for the response. I'll get mechanic to check big fuse tomorrow before having a look at the motor itself and seeing if we can power it manually before checking the full wiring.

 

[SonnyA85]

Big fuse is okay.

So looks like more diagnostics required. This is turning into a very very very expensive month.

 

[enuff_zed]

Big fuse is okay.

So looks like more diagnostics required. This is turning into a very very very expensive month.

If it were me I'd head to the gaptech next. Hopefully a loose connection?
If nothing obvious then try disconnecting it completely as it may be causing the problem.

But as with all these things: if it was working then someone did stuff near to it, then that has to be the prime suspect.

 

[bigwinn]

I had issues with a gaptech and never fitted one since- coding from carly is much easier

failing that I would be looking at loom breaks in the wiring

 

[enuff_zed]

I had issues with a gaptech and never fitted one since- coding from carly is much easier

failing that I would be looking at loom breaks in the wiring

Stuart, I was thinking that once the gaptech is removed from the equation it would be pretty simple to check if there's power to the motor.
The fact that it doesn't unlatch and there's not even a flashing light points me more towards the gaptech tbh.

 

[enuff_zed]

Ooh, hang on a minute!
How far did this mechanic dismantle stuff?
Is it potentially something as simple as the connection at the switch?

 

[SonnyA85]

He said all the wires look fine at the switch and there is scotch tape still intact on the gap tech.

The gap tech worked fine when it was installed. I'm thinking must be broken wire elsewhere due to age. There's zero power getting to any of it it seems.

 

[DashingDaryl]

When your guy took apart the center console for the shifter work, do you think he could have disconnected the Roof Switch?

Otherwise, I would double check the switch in the trunk.

Does Carly tell you that you are pushing the switch to lower the roof? (Does it have the function)

 

[enuff_zed]

I'm sure bigwinn will correct me, as he had broken wires in the roof, but I think his still unlatched from the front first??

 

[SonnyA85]

When your guy took apart the center console for the shifter work, do you think he could have disconnected the Roof Switch?

Otherwise, I would double check the switch in the trunk.

Does Carly tell you that you are pushing the switch to lower the roof? (Does it have the function)

He's checked everything and it looks okay. Where is the roof switch?

He was working on steering column putting a remanufactured module back in after taking it out and then freeing up a seized shift lock which is underneath the centre console.

The actual buttons which control all that stuff are far away.

Plus my gaptech would surely still work if that button had been disconnected from the physical button?

I bought a BMW 1.4 scanner so I'll try that but is Carly worth it? If so what's the best scanner to use with that can I use the same one I have for BMW 1.4?

 

[SonnyA85]

Where is this switch in the trunk guys? Thanks for all your ideas and help but it's been a long time since I read stuff on here

 

[enuff_zed]

Where is this switch in the trunk guys? Thanks for all your ideas and help but it's been a long time since I read stuff on here

It's the microswitch set into the slot in the front edge of the boot bulkhead. The parcel shelf slots into it. It sees when the shelf is in the raised position and stops the roof moving. You would normally expect a flashing light for that though? And I don't think you've been near that end have you?
So your mechanic is 100% certain that the gaptech is fine and that the connector onto the rear of the roof buttons hasn't been disturbed?
Or has he just looked and thought yeah that looks ok.
I think I'd remove and reseat that roof button connector and also look into removing/bypassing the gaptech first.
Something seems to be completely stopping any power at all to the system.

 

[SonnyA85]

Where is this switch in the trunk guys? Thanks for all your ideas and help but it's been a long time since I read stuff on here

It's the microswitch set into the slot in the front edge of the boot bulkhead. The parcel shelf slots into it. It sees when the shelf is in the raised position and stops the roof moving. You would normally expect a flashing light for that though? And I don't think you've been near that end have you?
So your mechanic is 100% certain that the gaptech is fine and that the connector onto the rear of the roof buttons hasn't been disturbed?
Or has he just looked and thought yeah that looks ok.
I think I'd remove and reseat that roof button connector and also look into removing/bypassing the gaptech first.
Something seems to be completely stopping any power at all to the system.

Switch in the trunk is fine. I just moved parcel shelf up. I could press the switch down manually with my finger (the little metal clip) and I heard a clicking sound when doing so.

I'll have a look at the button and re-seat when I have time. Is there a guide to removing all those parts? I have never taken apart the centre console before or whatever you call the bit where the gear lever is.

There is absolutely nothing happening when pressing the button and the mechanic says everything looks fine. He did have the cig lighter out and everything. I should have tested everything including the roof before I let him touch the car and showed him it all working. Learning that lesson the hard way. I thought this would be a simple EPS module swap out and back on the road but then suspension needed done as springs had snapped and then the shift lock had seized from sitting for so long too.

Like I say the motor had been relocated to the boot and the mechanic who did it said the wiring looked ropey they way they did it so he couldn't guarantee he wouldn't mess it up but it worked fine for years after it was put in the boot.

You reckon I should try and get this to a zed specialist or let my normal mechanic who just works on any car have a crack at it?

 

[enuff_zed]

The ash tray and switches all lift out together. Best way is trim removal tools, but if you use a rounded knife you should be ok if you go careful. Just inch up each edge a bit at a time. There are a couple of electrical connectors under there.
Do the other switches on that strip work? Heated seats, tyre pressure reset and DSC?

Whereabouts are you? Maybe someone close by who could help?

 

[SonnyA85]

I have the following soft top module error codes

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sqCetEB2QdvnYazW8

anyone know what that means?

i also have the following error codes

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2tmdJrMQFGgcAEPn9

do any of them require immediate attention?

 

[enuff_zed]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but those could still be instigated by the gap tech module.
Until the system is returned to standard as from the factory I feel you could be chasing your tail.
How else will you be able to confirm whether it is a fault in the car system, or something in the additional module?

 

[SonnyA85]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but those could still be instigated by the gap tech module.
Until the system is returned to standard as from the factory I feel you could be chasing your tail.
How else will you be able to confirm whether it is a fault in the car system, or something in the additional module?

Okay. I'll get the guy to remove the module and see what happens. But i think it's a broken wire somewhere from the back to the front which is common. Someone else had a similar code, well 2 of them and he had a broken wire or two.

 

[enuff_zed]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but those could still be instigated by the gap tech module.
Until the system is returned to standard as from the factory I feel you could be chasing your tail.
How else will you be able to confirm whether it is a fault in the car system, or something in the additional module?

Okay. I'll get the guy to remove the module and see what happens. But i think it's a broken wire somewhere from the back to the front which is common. Someone else had a similar code, well 2 of them and he had a broken wire or two.

OK, let us know the outcome then.