Roof motor advice and assistance required...

Mangozac said:
sam1832 said:
Also if you have a mega or can get hold of one you can check the insulation resistance of the winding that will also tell you if its knackered or not
There's no point in using a Megger (and for the love of God don't Megger it while it's still connected to the car wiring), since it's a 12V motor. If the insulation is breaking down to the point of causing a problem at 12V then it's going to show up on an Ohmmeter.

Good point


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
Am I right in thinking that if the motor has rust corrosion which is preventing it from turning, the resistance will be extremely high?

Been a long time since I've done any kind of electrical work lol
 
Marc-j said:
Am I right in thinking that if the motor has rust corrosion which is preventing it from turning, the resistance will be extremely high?

Been a long time since I've done any kind of electrical work lol

As your just trying to check the resistance of the primary winding it will make no difference if the output shaft is stuck solid or being restricted

The only time that will make a difference is when the motor is trying to turn




Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
Okay, update to this thread as most of my activity has been on my other 'wanted' thread :roll:

Which is here : http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=41522

Bought a new motor (£289 delivered) and a new housing (£61.69 delivered). I've not tested any wiring yet, not had a chance, but figured I should have the bits anyway. Koolchris99 is going to help me change the roof motor in a few weeks time - he's had his roof off many times so should be a reasonably short job, couple of hours max. If I get the chance to test the wiring prior to doing this I will post up here :thumbsup:
 
sam1832 said:
Marc-j said:
Could anyone who has tested a working motor post resistance/current obtained? Would be useful to compare when I measure mine on the weekend. Id love it to be something as simple as a fuse/relay although as it still works occasionally (to the halfway point) I am not holding out much hope for this!


If you manage to check the resistance of the winding you will know if it's knackered or not with out having something to compare to it's either going to be something like xx ohms or 10000ohms, infinity or ol

Also if you have a mega or can get hold of one you can check the insulation resistance of the winding that will also tell you if its knackered or not



Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Hi,

for future reference >>>

just checked my overhauled spare motor, the resistance across the connections is 0.5 Ohms - 5.0 Ohms ...as I move the Armature it changes depending on the conductivity across the brushes to the Commutator !!, so If your's is Knackered it will probably be > 5.0 Ohms, probably open line or Mega ohms !!
 
Thanks for info mate, plan on having a go at overhauling my motor this weekend if the weather holds out (I have no garage lol)

Does anyone know if the motor decouples from the hydraulic unit?
 
as far as i can tell its a one piece unit, there are some allen bolts that appear to attach the motor to the hydraulic end cap but i wasnt bold enough to strip it or even attempt it. if you do take loads of pics and let us/me know how you get on.
 
deka said:
as far as i can tell its a one piece unit, there are some allen bolts that appear to attach the motor to the hydraulic end cap but i wasnt bold enough to strip it or even attempt it. if you do take loads of pics and let us/me know how you get on.
Hi,

yes it can be seperated easy enough, 2 allen key bolts (as Deka said) and it pulls off..and no fluid loss !

Just mark the position of the motor in relation to the pump so that when you put it back together you don't get it 180 degrees off, then your wiring could be crossed :D
 
damm.... wish i had know that on sunday.... starting me to think about getting it rebuilt as i know someone who rebuilds alternators and the like...
 
deka said:
damm.... wish i had know that on sunday.... starting me to think about getting it rebuilt as i know someone who rebuilds alternators and the like...

hI deka,

I opened mine up cleaned it all up and reassembled, it works now and I'll keep it as a spare, It's reallly a sealed unit but there are ways around it ! :D
 
can any one give me advice my roof will only go half way up .it goes up to head level and then stops and will go up and down as many times as you like but only to that same point.with with red ringl pulled out to disconnect pump the motor will run free in both directions with the switch .
 
can any one give me advice my roof will only go half way up .it goes up to head level and then stops and will go up and down as many times as you like but only to that same point.with with red ringl pulled out to disconnect pump the motor will run free in both directions with the switch .sorry should have introduced myself fist dave had the car a month no problems went out to pose as a oap do when you have a spare moment or two and this happened guttered
 
Mine has the same symptoms, doesn't seem to go past half way point and other times doesn't move at all.

After reading various things on the net it looks like it could be the motor is corroded/rusted. Shipkiller does an excellent guide on removing and replacing the motor.

I'm going to have mine out in the next week or so and plan on refurbishing it if it is in reasonable condition. If not I'll take the plunge and get a new one.
 
I caved this week and had my local indy fit my new roof motor & housing. Cost me £300 as expected :cry:

Reason for the update is that they did a couple more things as part of the fix than I was expecting that may prove useful for others when having this done, or doing it yourself.

Firstly, they drilled out the top drain holes to make them bigger and allow water / debris to drain freely - as the existing holes are too small. Makes sense to me - they said my motor was sitting in over 6 inches of water...

The second thing they did as remove the bungs at the bottom of the drains, as the holes in them are also too small. as these are hidden up behind the splash guard there is no real need for them. I think Stuart Truman suggested that they could be removed completely when he cleaned his drains - seems his theory was correct.

Anyway, happy now - hopefully the sun will come out tomorrow afternoon :D

Just need to re-fit my Gaptech now...
 
Hey glad you got it sorted mate,i also mentioned leaving the bungs off,but was put off the idea when it was mentioned spiders can climb up :cry: -6 inches of water :o -can i ask if you have cleaned the drains mate?-just wondering because if you have it seems pointless :(
 
I hadn't cleaned the drains Andy, though I had a wee peek at the driver's side and it was fine. You cannot clean the passenger side drain from the top as the motor is in the way, and of course you can clean from the bottom but there's the probability you'll simply poke a certain amount of the debris back up into the void round the housing. An A1 sh1t design :headbang:

On a 6 year old car that has lived outside in London most of it's life and hadn't had the drains cleaned ever, even doing it would simply have prolonged the inevitable I think because the damage will have been done - corrosion just gets worse, right ?

As for spiders... Well, my maths goes something like - some electricity for a hoover every once in a while, or £650+ to have the roof motor replaced = no-brainer :D

My worry would be that even taking the bungs out doesn't solve the issue as they also drilled the top drain holes bigger. Might help stop water backing up from the bottom though I guess. I will see if I can get a pic of the drilled drain hole on the driver side when the rain has stopped and I can get the roof down.

Anyway, should be fine for as long as I have the car now, and beyond :wink:
 
How big did they drill the hole? I'd be a bit concerned they had punctured the drain pipe but have no idea on its diameter.

Regarding spiders, if they do climb up where is it going to get them, only the outside of the roof surely. Don't see them as a problem. Probably plenty of other ways to get in anyway.
 
I guess spiders could get inside up past the roof mechanism... But not bothered.

Like I said, I will try to get a photo of the driver's side - however these guys aren't back street shysters, so I am confident they haven't buggered anything up. IIRC from my extensive reading, the bung in the bottom is about half an inch across, whereas rom what I could see the drain hole is less than half that, so they have a lot of room to play with.
 
As you say mate a sh1t design,as it tapers to nothing at the bottom! :thumbsdown: -at least you are sorted!-did you get a 2 year warranty with it being oem part?
 
Back
Top Bottom