Roof module issue - eOpen

[Jalfrezi]

Following a roof motor relocation yesterday (thanks Alan). I discovered that I have an eOpen roof module (apparently like a Gaptech).

However I have an annoying issue with it. Often the roof doesn't fully open/close. So I have to hold down the operation buttons for the last part of the travel.

Also, there is a faint glow from the top roof operation LED, which doesn't seem right. I'm getting flat batteries regularly, I wonder if this is the source of the fault.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had an eOpen manual lying around (long shot)? Failing that I'm planning on checking over the connections, I may even solder them up.

It's fitted with Scotchlocks with spade connectors. So it could just be hooked up wrong.

 

[Number5]

You're welcome Neil. Nice to meet you Saturday

Is it worth temporarily removing it completely and see if that resolves your drain issue? For the sake of just holding the button down for the full operation, but eradicating the battery problem, that's the way I'd go. Then, if this confirms the issue, I'd perhaps consider installing the trusted Gaptech module instead ?

 

[Jalfrezi]

Sounds like a good plan, I'll give that a go. Thanks

 

[Jalfrezi]

I finally had a good look at this, and I'm convinced that the roof module is causing issues, or more likely the wiring.

I've spent a good bit of time today wiggling wires, and it seems that there is an intermittent connection somewhere, as the LED is varying in brightness. The installation used those splicing connectors, which frankly I don't trust one bit, and one of the thinner cables broke whilst I was looking at it, so I've soldered that one together with a decent splice.

I cannot for the life of me find which wire(s) is to blame, so for now I've removed the power feeds from the modules, but that means no roof down motoring for now. Rather frustrating!

I think I'll remove the lot, and seeing if I can replace that part of the loom that has those crappy splicing connectors on it.

 

[Number5]

Can you clarify if have you removed just the aftermarket module or if the issue is near the main (original) roof module behind the passenger seat and thats the wires you say are intermittent? (Usually the aftermarket module is spliced into the switch module and sits underneath the ashtray)

I dont see why you can't still operate the roof on the normal switches having removed the accessory ?
Excuse me if I'm being thick!

 

[Jalfrezi]

Not being thick at all, I'd rather hoped that disconnecting the modules (there are two under the ashtray for this type) would still allow normal operation.

I disconnected just the aftermarket modules, however some of the wiring is still in place. I think that this is preventing normal operation.

 

[Wortmanov]

One thing I can recommend with partial opening: please check and inspect your wiring inside the hood.
It is a very common place for a crack in the wiring, which causes not opening and closing fully. Getting there really is a 10 minute job.

Check this post in German.

 

[Number5]

One thing I can recommend with partial opening: please check and inspect your wiring inside the hood.
It is a very common place for a crack in the wiring, which causes not opening and closing fully. Getting there really is a 10 minute job.

Check this post in German.

Where exactly are you talking about ? Which wires ? There are no wires in the hood that will stop the up and down movement. That's all hydraulic.
If the roof is unlatching then it will go up and down controlled by the motor and pump which is now in the boot.

 

[Wortmanov]

@Number5 The wires run from the latch to the soft top control module, on the inside of the car (behind the interior lining). When they break they can cause incorrect signals from the hall sensor, causing the operation to stop halfway (ask me how I know...).

These wires tend to break after so many years of being folded. Simply applied some duraseals at the breaks and they're good to go again

The german topic I linked to describes the same issue, opening partially and then stopping. Pressing the button sometimes makes it move again.

Might not be the issue, but it's worth checking, since it takes a few minutes to inspect the wires.

 

[Number5]

@Wortmanov. Thank you. I now know the wires that you mean and they run to the sensors on the latch drives. The roof positioning sensors are located on the roof arm, on the left hand side, just above the motor. The sensors on the latching advise the roof ECU when the latches are open sufficiently to allow the roof to be pulled back, or closed enough to lock and stop tightening.

These sensors plug onto the roof ECU on a separate plug to the rest of the connections I believe, but I'm not sure of the results if you run the process with these disconnected. i.e. whether or not its looking for a Normally Closed or Open circuit. I do know that you can expose these by peeling back the canvas and checking the position of the worm drives and occasionally the sensor can jump over the drive resulting in over tightening and damaging the drive cables between the motor and the latches. It is this device on the one latch that unwinds and releases the central latch on the pre-facelift models allowing it to come up out of the boot.

Anyway, going back to the OP's initial problem, I would be inclined to remove all of the aftermarket modules and go back to factory set/installation up and then see what happens (if still possible)?