Roof latch removal

enuff_zed

Lifer
 Attleborough, Norfolk
Yes I have searched the previous threads but still things are hazy, so I'm asking for help please.
Took wifey's 2.5i for a long run to the coast last night. After about 5 miles I made her pull over and jammed a piece of cleaning cloth between the rear roof latch and the roof. Bliss! A peaceful run and the lack of rattle even made the car seem to be running smoother.
I had previously tried various combinations of tape, rubber etc, but still the damn squeak!
So this weekend's job is to remove the latch, but I'm not sure how.
Exactly how much of the trim has to come out? I've had the top rear part out before and that is simple enough. Any more need removing? If so, how?
How many bolts are there holding it in?
Any potential issues I may hit?
Anyone who has done this, I would appreciate your input please.
 
Well in the absence of any replies I just decided to dive on in there.
Very quickly discovered that the metal bar behind the seats is solidly fixed and appears to be mounted to the engine!!
So I decided on a different approach.
Looked at the latch on the leading edge of the roof itself. x4 small screws and it drops away, but is still connected by a cable that disappears into the roof somewhere. Again, I was loathe to pull it apart. So, I reached a compromise. I put the screws back into the roof latch but left off the two metal hooks from either side, which appear to serve as locators onto the metal bar at the back. They both had various witness marks where they'd been rattling against the bar.
I crossed fingers and folded the roof down.
Since we got this car the roof has always sat up just a little bit when lowered, but I've seen many others that look the same so, in my initial ignorance, haven't been unduly concerned.
But now the roof goes down flush and the lock engages. Quick blast up the bumpy test road proved the rattle has gone!
After all this time and various attempts at bodging, it seems the metal hooks on the roof latch were causing the problem all along.
Added bonus..............happy wife!
 
You need to remove the rear centre console to remove the latch. Well worth doing as it stops it rubbing on the roof when raising/lowering.
 
srhutch said:
You need to remove the rear centre console to remove the latch. Well worth doing as it stops it rubbing on the roof when raising/lowering.
Well, I took out the upper portion and could see how the latch was held with just two bolts.
But the metal bar behind it? That seems to be part of the whole assembly. To me it looked as though removing that would take with it the section with the two retaining holes that hold the upper trim in place?
I assume I'm missing something here?
 
srhutch said:
You just remove the catch, not the bar behind it.
Ah I see what you mean.
But my issue was that the roof latch was rattling on the metal bar.
It seemed that the two metal locating hooks on the roof latch were holding the roof up a little and actually preventing it from latching down.
Removing those two hooks from the roof latch now allows the roof to go fully down and lock, so no rattling.
I don't think removing the catch will make any difference in this case?
But thanks for the help. :thumbsup:
 
There is no latch on post facelift cars (well most as mine still had one) so I would just remove. It doesn't need a latch, the roof will stay down fine.
 
srhutch said:
There is no latch on post facelift cars (well most as mine still had one) so I would just remove. It doesn't need a latch, the roof will stay down fine.
Indeed, I will whip it out if the rattle comes back. :thumbsup:
 
I removed my hood latch and metal locking plate just a few weeks ago. I undid the latch on the centre leading edge of the hood and just tucked it inside still attached to the cable and wrapped in some thin insulating foam to stop it rattling...I didn't want to butcher it and just cut it off. At the rear I removed the centre cubby section and cubby door. I then removed the plastic catch and it's metal mounting bracket. Now no squeaks or rattles at all. Just today driven 270 miles up the Pennines and back through the Dales and Bowland at speeds approaching 100mph in places and also over very uneven surfaces, bumps etc and the hood is perfectly safe without the lock...and squeak/rattle free. As said it is definitely well worth doing :thumbsup: 20210627_210749.jpg20210627_210552.jpg
 
patriot66 said:
I removed my hood latch and metal locking plate just a few weeks ago. I undid the latch on the centre leading edge of the hood and just tucked it inside still attached to the cable and wrapped in some thin insulating foam to stop it rattling...I didn't want to butcher it and just cut it off. At the rear I removed the centre cubby section and cubby door. I then removed the plastic catch and it's metal mounting bracket. Now no squeaks or rattles at all. Just today driven 270 miles up the Pennines and back through the Dales and Bowland at speeds approaching 100mph in places and also over very uneven surfaces, bumps etc and the hood is perfectly safe without the lock...and squeak/rattle free. As said it is definitely well worth doing :thumbsup: 20210627_210749.jpg20210627_210552.jpg
Thanks for that second photo. Makes it much clearer. When you look at it in situ it seems like the trim retaining holes are part of it, which is what deflected my attention to the front. As I said, for me it seems the removal of those two metal hooks from the front has resolved the issue. If it comes back then it's on to stage two, removal of the rear latch assembly.
 
enuff_zed said:
patriot66 said:
I removed my hood latch and metal locking plate just a few weeks ago. I undid the latch on the centre leading edge of the hood and just tucked it inside still attached to the cable and wrapped in some thin insulating foam to stop it rattling...I didn't want to butcher it and just cut it off. At the rear I removed the centre cubby section and cubby door. I then removed the plastic catch and it's metal mounting bracket. Now no squeaks or rattles at all. Just today driven 270 miles up the Pennines and back through the Dales and Bowland at speeds approaching 100mph in places and also over very uneven surfaces, bumps etc and the hood is perfectly safe without the lock...and squeak/rattle free. As said it is definitely well worth doing :thumbsup: 20210627_210749.jpg20210627_210552.jpg
Thanks for that second photo. Makes it much clearer. When you look at it in situ it seems like the trim retaining holes are part of it, which is what deflected my attention to the front. As I said, for me it seems the removal of those two metal hooks from the front has resolved the issue. If it comes back then it's on to stage two, removal of the rear latch assembly.
:) :thumbsup:
 
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