Roof issues...
- Thread starter Joe4
- Start date
Yes, a 20mm Hole for both hydraulic lines and the two power leadsdaggers said:
Sgr74 said:You should pack that hole with insulation. Reduces the noise a bit.
I sometimes use the bottom half of the original housing. However a lot of people seem to feel reassured to hear the motor running again, having experienced silence during its failure. After all its only 8 seconds
Number5 said:Yes, a 20mm Hole for both hydraulic lines and the two power leadsdaggers said:
Sgr74 said:You should pack that hole with insulation. Reduces the noise a bit.
I sometimes use the bottom half of the original housing. However a lot of people seem to feel reassured to hear the motor running again, having experienced silence during its failure. After all its only 8 seconds
I used the housing at first but wanted the motor more upright.
Not had a chance to attempt getting the motor running again as I've been working 14 hour days this week 
, but I think I've now narrowed it down to the pump as being the problem.
Using your idea (dietcokeman) and attaching a drill to the motor shaft I was able to spin the motor and lower the roof perfectly but not raise ( I had switched the hydraulic lines to opposite ports)
Is there any kind of rebuild kit available for these pumps? Or does anyone know of anybody selling a good pump?
, but I think I've now narrowed it down to the pump as being the problem. Using your idea (dietcokeman) and attaching a drill to the motor shaft I was able to spin the motor and lower the roof perfectly but not raise ( I had switched the hydraulic lines to opposite ports)
Is there any kind of rebuild kit available for these pumps? Or does anyone know of anybody selling a good pump?
its normally tie wrapped on which you need to cut to allow it to moveGAN1 said:I'm just trying to relocate my roof motor. I've hit a problem where the short hydraulic pipe won't allow me to relocate the motor into the boot because the pipe is the wrong side of a small bar which wont allow me to get the full length. Id be grateful of any ideas??
Yes there are two tie wraps, one where it joins and one just below. Was thinking I need to leave the one on where it joins, to keep it in place and just cutting the other one I still don't think will give me enough length. If I could get the pipe from behind the part that it joins on to, it would be long enough but this small bar is in the way.
Update on my roof motor:
Turned out to be the pump that was the problem, only one port was working!
Ordered a new (slightly used) motor from ebay, fitted and all is well (for now
).
I was having trouble with my banjo bolt washers leaking... didn't have any copper crush washers handy so used fibre washers, seems to have done the trick for now but will keep an eye on them.
Thanks for the help to all that chipped in
Turned out to be the pump that was the problem, only one port was working!
Ordered a new (slightly used) motor from ebay, fitted and all is well (for now
).I was having trouble with my banjo bolt washers leaking... didn't have any copper crush washers handy so used fibre washers, seems to have done the trick for now but will keep an eye on them.
Thanks for the help to all that chipped in
Joe4 said:Update on my roof motor:
Turned out to be the pump that was the problem, only one port was working!
Ordered a new (slightly used) motor from ebay, fitted and all is well (for now
I was having trouble with my banjo bolt washers leaking... didn't have any copper crush washers handy so used fibre washers, seems to have done the trick for now but will keep an eye on them.
Thanks for the help to all that chipped in
So did you only change the motor or the full unit?
Changed the full unit.
Problem turned out to be pressure available from one side of the pump only... as a result could only raise the roof or swap the hydraulic lines around and lower the roof.
The roof now works flawlessly, it even latches open now which it would not previously do, either under the strength of the old pump or manually.
Problem turned out to be pressure available from one side of the pump only... as a result could only raise the roof or swap the hydraulic lines around and lower the roof.
The roof now works flawlessly, it even latches open now which it would not previously do, either under the strength of the old pump or manually.
Guys, thought id post in here to save a new thread...had a search but cant find exact problem that i have.
Anyway, recently got my z4, however last week noticed that the roof will no longer go fully down, it stops maybe 4-5 inches from fully down.
Upon investigation the top part of the rear glass screen looks to be fouling/catching on the bulkhead plastic trim within the bootspace, the plastic has a lip which looks to be around 5mm but is catching the glass, hence not allowing the roof to fully retract. (attached a link - Bit of plastic above the microswitch section that runs lenghtways).
http://www.zpost.com/forums/attachment.php?s=302d32747c9914f971f445335cc50747&attachmentid=586975&stc=1&d=1317330135
The glass can be manually pushed past the lip when the roof is open at its highest point and it closes/opens fully. However when the roof is closed and opened the same problem occurs.
Has anyone had this issue before?
Is there some sort of elastic within the roof that pulls the glass back to clear this plastic trim that may have worn, or can the trim be easily removed and refitted flush to avoid the glass catching. This has only happened over the past week.
Thanks in advance
Anyway, recently got my z4, however last week noticed that the roof will no longer go fully down, it stops maybe 4-5 inches from fully down.
Upon investigation the top part of the rear glass screen looks to be fouling/catching on the bulkhead plastic trim within the bootspace, the plastic has a lip which looks to be around 5mm but is catching the glass, hence not allowing the roof to fully retract. (attached a link - Bit of plastic above the microswitch section that runs lenghtways).
http://www.zpost.com/forums/attachment.php?s=302d32747c9914f971f445335cc50747&attachmentid=586975&stc=1&d=1317330135
The glass can be manually pushed past the lip when the roof is open at its highest point and it closes/opens fully. However when the roof is closed and opened the same problem occurs.
Has anyone had this issue before?
Is there some sort of elastic within the roof that pulls the glass back to clear this plastic trim that may have worn, or can the trim be easily removed and refitted flush to avoid the glass catching. This has only happened over the past week.
Thanks in advance