Roof issues - Pro Tool diagnosing

[sym]

Hey all

I've had issues with my roof and boot lately.
Sometimes I would randomly get chime about boot being open and roof operation randomly stops working.
Recently the roof did not want to go down at all: when back lid is closing and the roof is folded in top position, back lid would close as it should, but operation would not continue from there. I can still hear the hydraulics and roof stays folded on top (the back piece is not lowering).

So I figured that there must be something wrong with sensors that detect the back lid's position.

I have been using ProTool for a lot of stuff on other BMWs as well and to my positive surprise it also had logging available for convertible top module.

Looking at the log I can see that the status of left side is going randomly all over (see attached image).


Now the question is which part number should I replace and how?

For those interested in what convertible top parameters ProTool is able to log, you can view my log of closing the top here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR8nxzfsAraibB72Q62jKqb8lBHN_BLR1OXkIsULIJA/edit?usp=sharing

Ps. Pro tip: ProTool is also able to open the boot even when its not supposed to open (roof operation is not complete).

 

[B21]

Hey all

I've had issues with my roof and boot lately.
Sometimes I would randomly get chime about boot being open and roof operation randomly stops working.
Recently the roof did not want to go down at all: when back lid is closing and the roof is folded in top position, back lid would close as it should, but operation would not continue from there. I can still hear the hydraulics and roof stays folded on top (the back piece is not lowering).

So I figured that there must be something wrong with sensors that detect the back lid's position.

I have been using ProTool for a lot of stuff on other BMWs as well and to my positive surprise it also had logging available for convertible top module.

Looking at the log I can see that the status of left side is going randomly all over (see attached image).
Capture.JPG

Now the question is which part number should I replace and how?

For those interested in what convertible top parameters ProTool is able to log, you can view my log of closing the top here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR8nxzfsAraibB72Q62jKqb8lBHN_BLR1OXkIsULIJA/edit?usp=sharing

Ps. Pro tip: ProTool is also able to open the boot even when its not supposed to open (roof operation is not complete).

It’s usually the two micro switches on the rams either side in the boot…

I found winter / damp caused similar issues with mine….they are supposed to be sealed but I still found those issues..I have a fresh pair of switches to go…

Good that Protool does such a good job..I’m a Protool fan

 

[javis20]

Are you referring to the boot closed micro switches?

 

[Christopher72]

Now the question is which part number should I replace and how?

I just opened a similar thread. I haven't done the real-time logging on the top like you have, just pulled the error code.
@B21 is referring to parts 54377228585 & 54377228586, which have been recommended as a default replacement for top issues.

 

[javis20]

Here is a DIY I did for replacing the boot closed microswitches.

https://youtu.be/qcwZC1uah_o

 

[blazej]

javis20, I hope I don’t have to do this before I sell on, but if I do, I’ll follow your video which is a great tutorial. Should be posted in the how-to section if it isn’t already there

 

[javis20]

It's a very easy job.

 

[Christopher72]

It's a very easy job.

Easy, but not quick (or I'm slow). Most important to have spare trim fasteners... many have never been removed for a decade and won't survive the removal, even with the correct tool.

Important things I did:
Scribe the nuts with a white paint pen -- will save lots of time.
Use a 2mm hex driver to remove the M3 screws -- not an "L" wrench - better torque - and magnetize it!
replace the connector on the new parts, splice, solder, and heat shrink.

 

[javis20]

Just to clarify, I did mention at 1:10 to use a marking pen or other method to mark locations of nuts. And at 2:52 in the video I did mention it would be easier to cut off and splice the plugs, if car is earlier than 2014.

 

[Christopher72]

Just to clarify, I did mention at 1:10 to use a marking pen or other method to mark locations of nuts. And at 2:52 in the video I did mention it would be easier to cut off and splice the plugs, if car is earlier than 2014.

You did! and it was important... just reinforcing... Next time I'll remember to reference the video to give props. I would not have executed half as quickly/well without the video you made.