Roof help! E85 07

First time post, E85 2007 - dreaded flashing lights on the roof buttons with the top stuck down. Will check the fuses and reset the windows but in case it’s the motor, can anyone recommend a specialist near Eastbourne East Sussex? TIA
 
Are you getting no noise or movement at all when pressing?

It’s unusual for the roof to do that in the down location but red flashing can indicate a loom break

Is the motor relocated?
Can you pull the red cable release and get the roof into a different position to see if that brings it to life?
 
Hi thanks for the reply, I’m going to get the roof up manually tomorrow and see if that can encourage it to work, unfortunately the motor has NOT been relocated! No noise from the motor at the moment
 
Morning helpers!
Manually got the roof up and locked in place, when operating now, both windows go down and the roof moves about an inch, then stops, it does however close with the button! All fuses checked and all okay.
 
Do you mean it only closes that inch? So the pump motor doesn’t run at all? Could be a break in the loom but could also just be a failed motor.
Step one is always get the motor into the boot first.
 
My top exhibited the same behavior and it ended up being the DC motor on the hydraulic pump. I had the same flashing lights as well. I dug out the pump and motor and sure enough, it was rusted solid. I ordered a replacement motor from amazon and swapped it out for the rust bucket. I also relocated the assembly into the trunk. All I need to do is get a nice clap to bolt it in place and make a panel to hide it from view. The top works well now. I think the motor was like $50. I did have to top off the fluid after replacing the DC motor as some will leak out. Go slowly when removing the motor as there is a spring in there that you do not want to lose.

This is the one I used. https://a.co/d/09X2z5N8

The only advantage I had was that my rear window delaminated from the top and was the reason it was in my garage in the first place. So I just reached through that opening to get the pump and motor out of the pocket. Right now I am resealing the frame and window back in the top. Its been a week of fun for sure.
 
@Silver85407 that sounds like the pump motor, seized due to water intrusion. I had a mechanic change the motor one time. 2 years later, same failure. There is no point replacing the hydraulic pump/motor unless you first relocate it to the trunk where it won’t flood again. My car has become a manual roof for years due to this. It does just what yours does, unlocks the roof, puts the windows down half way, you then take it from there (manually). You can use it like this indefinitely, as I have. I do miss the ease of the powered top though.
 
My top exhibited the same behavior and it ended up being the DC motor on the hydraulic pump. I had the same flashing lights as well. I dug out the pump and motor and sure enough, it was rusted solid. I ordered a replacement motor from amazon and swapped it out for the rust bucket. I also relocated the assembly into the trunk. All I need to do is get a nice clap to bolt it in place and make a panel to hide it from view. The top works well now. I think the motor was like $50. I did have to top off the fluid after replacing the DC motor as some will leak out. Go slowly when removing the motor as there is a spring in there that you do not want to lose.

This is the one I used. https://a.co/d/09X2z5N8

The only advantage I had was that my rear window delaminated from the top and was the reason it was in my garage in the first place. So I just reached through that opening to get the pump and motor out of the pocket. Right now I am resealing the frame and window back in the top. Its been a week of fun for sure.
how did you get the pump motor housing out of its home? My back window also came loose and I tried every way I could to get the pump housing free, through the back window, but finally gave up.
 
As Mike6 stated, there are cable ties holding the black shell in place. For me, I first removed the top cover which is held in place with tape, then as I pulled up on the bottom shell I was able to get a long body panel tool down between the lower shell and the attachment point and the zip tie and break it. Just be cautious around all the wires and hoses. It did take a fair amount of time and was a tight fit to get out, it can be done. The zip tie is stronger than it should be, lol. I watched other videos and people just pulled on it and it broke with ease but that was not my experience. Once I saw it visually, I was able to get the tool between it and the snap it.
 
As Mike6 stated, there are cable ties holding the black shell in place. For me, I first removed the top cover which is held in place with tape, then as I pulled up on the bottom shell I was able to get a long body panel tool down between the lower shell and the attachment point and the zip tie and break it. Just be cautious around all the wires and hoses. It did take a fair amount of time and was a tight fit to get out, it can be done. The zip tie is stronger than it should be, lol. I watched other videos and people just pulled on it and it broke with ease but that was not my experience. Once I saw it visually, I was able to get the tool between it and the snap it.
That's the agricultural method. For those of us with a degree in mechanical sympathy (and a desire not to dislodge the hall sensors) it is safer, easier and in fact far quicker to simply lift that side of the roof. Usually have the motor in hand within 15 minutes. You can then sort out any issues, top up the fluid, free off the bypass plunger, etc. with it hanging cxonveniently at waist height outside the car, before passing it through into the boot (trunk). It also means you can easily lay out the hydraulic pipes to be free of kinks before neatly securing them.

Not only that, but it's not only a zip tie in there. The casing is screwed to the hinge, so you're having to lever hard enough to break the plastic on the housing support too.
 
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