Roof Fault Code - 000043 CVM Drive, Cowl Panel, Open Curcuit.

[MACK]

Hi,

Has anyone got any experience/advice with this particular fault code?
Basically I think its the same issue I had back in September a couple of times which I posted about in this thread.

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=90680&p=1336463&hilit=ROOF#p1336463

I had hoped that was down to a very slightly loose plug on the roof control module (CVM) and it hadn't faulted since, despite the roof being up and down a good few times over the winter. Well it now looks like that was wishful thinking as the issue is back.

In fact yesterday evening the symptoms were exactly the same as when I posted in my earlier thread on 20/09/16 "when I went to open the roof through the remote (Gaptech). The windows went down half way then everything stopped. This time I had a solid (non flashing) red night on the roof down button." That time after a few seconds the roof burst into life. Not this time the solid red light went off and nothings lit up/worked on the roof since.

I was away in the lakes last time it played up but as I was at home this time I managed to scan the car with INPA and got the fault code in the CVM Module, Code 000043, CVM drive, cowl panel, open circuit. If you delete it, it immediately comeback. Just been out to it this morning and still no lights etc. Looks to me like the issue is in the front of the roof with either the motor/sensors etc or a break in the loom going up to the front of the roof.

Anyone had anything similar happen to them? Or can offer any useful advice.

 

[Smartbear]

I'd probably remove the gaptec in case the issue is with that & try the roof operation without it?
Rob

 

[Chris_D]

Uhoh. I'd second rob and suggest removing gaptech to get back to stock and cancel out the aftermarket bit. Battery disconnect and clear code then try again.
Good luck

 

[MACK]

I'd probably remove the gaptec in case the issue is with that & try the roof operation without it?
Rob

Thanks Rob,
that's next on my list.

Just pulled the glovebox down, checked the fuses and their all intact.
I used this old thread to check what fuses should be hot and when and the three associated with the roof seem to all do there thing when required.
http://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38888

Also had the rear storage box and grill out to check the connections to the Roof Module itself and their all ok.

Gaptech next before I guess I'm on to taking the front of the roof apart.

Glorious day, I should be out driving it! At least its supposed to be dry.

 

[MACK]

Uhoh. I'd second rob and suggest removing gaptech to get back to stock and cancel out the aftermarket bit. Battery disconnect and clear code then try again.
Good luck

Thanks Chris,

Yes once the gaptech is out I'm going to use INPA to try and clear the fault code again before a battery disconnect. I wanted to leave the battery side of things till the gaptech is out of the way as it going to flag even more codes once that'[s disconnected.

 

[MACK]

Well just to update this in case anyone else should find themselves in this situation.

After checking the fuses and wiring plugs to the Roof Module were OK I moved on to the Gaptech.
I fully removed it and still no joy. So again I tried clearing the fault code but it came back instantly and I still had no roof lights/motion.
I then disconnected the battery and voila! Everything works again and I was finally able to delete the fault code without it coming back.

So it does now look like my Gaptech is potentially the issue, although I not 100% sold on this. I'm going to leave it out for the foreseeable future and see if I get a occurrence over the coming months without it fitted. It does seem to be an intermittent fault. Although its been winter the roof has been up and down probably 15-20 times since the last occurrence of this fault in late Sept. I think at this point its the only way to be absolutely sure the Gaptech is at fault and its not some sort of odd coincidence. Shame as I really like that mod, but at least it was freebie, as it was already on the car when I bought it.

What is worth noting for anyone in a similar situation is a simple battery disconnect whilst the gaptech is still fitted won't work. I tried that when I first had this fault up in the lakes in Sept when I had no tools/software with me. It would appear this only works when the Gaptech is taken out of the equation and the module is fully reboot from a powered down situation rather than just a fault code clearance.

thanks for reading, hope this makes sense and someone else finds it useful one day.

 

[Smartbear]

Well just to update this in case anyone else should find themselves in this situation.

After checking the fuses and wiring plugs to the Roof Module were OK I moved on to the Gaptech.
I fully removed it and still no joy. So again I tried clearing the fault code but it came back instantly and I still had no roof lights/motion.
I then disconnected the battery and voila! Everything works again and I was finally able to delete the fault code without it coming back.

So it does now look like my Gaptech is potentially the issue, although I not 100% sold on this. I'm going to leave it out for the foreseeable future and see if I get a occurrence over the coming months without it fitted. It does seem to be an intermittent fault. Although its been winter the roof has been up and down probably 15-20 times since the last occurrence of this fault in late Sept. I think at this point its the only way to be absolutely sure the Gaptech is at fault and its not some sort of odd coincidence. Shame as I really like that mod, but at least it was freebie, as it was already on the car when I bought it.

What is worth noting for anyone in a similar situation is a simple battery disconnect whilst the gaptech is still fitted won't work. I tried that when I first had this fault up in the lakes in Sept when I had no tools/software with me. It would appear this only works when the Gaptech is taken out of the equation and the module is fully reboot from a powered down situation rather than just a fault code clearance.

thanks for reading, hope this makes sense and someone else finds it useful one day.

Is your gaptec connected with the scotchclips supplied with it?
I replaced mine for electicians terminal strip after suffering open circuit connections with those useless things :roll:
Rob

 

[MACK]

Well just to update this in case anyone else should find themselves in this situation.

After checking the fuses and wiring plugs to the Roof Module were OK I moved on to the Gaptech.
I fully removed it and still no joy. So again I tried clearing the fault code but it came back instantly and I still had no roof lights/motion.
I then disconnected the battery and voila! Everything works again and I was finally able to delete the fault code without it coming back.

So it does now look like my Gaptech is potentially the issue, although I not 100% sold on this. I'm going to leave it out for the foreseeable future and see if I get a occurrence over the coming months without it fitted. It does seem to be an intermittent fault. Although its been winter the roof has been up and down probably 15-20 times since the last occurrence of this fault in late Sept. I think at this point its the only way to be absolutely sure the Gaptech is at fault and its not some sort of odd coincidence. Shame as I really like that mod, but at least it was freebie, as it was already on the car when I bought it.

What is worth noting for anyone in a similar situation is a simple battery disconnect whilst the gaptech is still fitted won't work. I tried that when I first had this fault up in the lakes in Sept when I had no tools/software with me. It would appear this only works when the Gaptech is taken out of the equation and the module is fully reboot from a powered down situation rather than just a fault code clearance.

thanks for reading, hope this makes sense and someone else finds it useful one day.

Is your gaptec connected with the scotchclips supplied with it?
I replaced mine for electicians terminal strip after suffering open circuit connections with those useless things :roll:
Rob

Its a good point you raise Rob, but no it wasn't it was soldered in.
I did check its connections back in Sept when things first went up the wall and visually they seemed fine. Its interesting you were also getting open circuit fault codes though with dicky connections. I might whip the ashtray back out and check the connections with a multimeter just in case one is obviously not right. I might even start again with them, renew them all and see how it goes, nothing like doing a job yourself to make sure its right.

I really should have though of this yesterday!

 

[Barryprman]

And that is why this these forum pages are such a help. People ask questions and get replies, then respond with the latest updates. See so many threads where once a solution is offered, the thread runs dry. Keep it up all… you never know who will next have a similar issue.

 

[MACK]

Ok, just to update this in case anyone else should find themselves in this boat one day.

I removed my Gaptech the same day as last post and everything was OK for a few days or so (9 roof cycles) then a re-occurrance. So it looks like my Gaptech is fine and I dont have an issue with it like some others have had in the past. This time I scanned the car with INPA as well as the newer ISTA and it gave me slightly more info. INPA told me the issue was specifically in an arrestor hook rather than the general cowl panel code I got from ISTA. I noticed the only arrestor hook that's electrical as well as mechanical is the left one which has the built in hall sensor so I though if I change anything that's where to start.

I then remembered I read some threads on various forums about damaged roof wiring looms on E46's and I even found one thread on an E85. Long story short I took the roof apart unhooked the loom at the front and found a couple of wires that were badly kinked and one even had its casing splitting. The multimeter seem to imply one of these was open circuit when I tested it in one particular position but then I couldn't replicate it. Took a chance and replaced both lengths of wire and suffice to say in the last week and a half and now some 70 cycles of the roof up and down I been fault free. (touch wood!) I've still left the Gaptech off currently (just in case!) but if I get no faults over the next few weeks I'll be sticking it back on as well.

Hopefully this is the end of the matter, but I've probably just cursed it!

 

[Russ59]

Had to replace a couple lengths of wire in my loom at the front of the roof, 2 split wires and one badly kinked and all has been fine since.
It's with the roof going up and down and the loom bending that causes it because the wires are only like telephone wire, they are so thin. I made the loom more substantial, enough to stop the wires breaking again (hopefully) but not too stiff as not to bend.

 

[MACK]

Had to replace a couple lengths of wire in my loom at the front of the roof, 2 split wires and one badly kinked and all has been fine since.
It's with the roof going up and down and the loom bending that causes it because the wires are only like telephone wire, they are so thin. I made the loom more substantial, enough to stop the wires breaking again (hopefully) but not too stiff as not to bend.

Likewise, I did think they were on the thin side so went with a slightly thicker more substantial wire that was still very flexible. Hope it stands up to use!

 

[MACK]

OK just to update this in case its useful to someone someday. Its a month or so since I replaced the lengths of wire in the loom and its been fine since. The roof has had an extensive test in that time, with it being up and down well over a 100 times. Refitted the Gaptech + at the week end (really missed that little thing!) and again the roof has been up and down 15 times in the last 3 days without any issues. So it looks like some broken/damaged wires in the loom were my issue (touch wood!). With mine being a pre facelift I wonder if this will become increasingly common as the cars age etc or I've just been a bit unlucky. Looking at the state of the wires I replaced my moneys on it becoming an increasingly common fault as the cars age and particularly prevalent on cars whose roof's see a lot of action.

 

[angelsambrook]

Has anyone gotten the code "CVM: Drive, cowl panel, current too high when opening safety catch" Not sure what this means??

 

[ph001]

Maybe the motors that drive the catches in the front cowl taking to much current due to the mechanism being jammed / dry?? I'd get in there by removing the cowl at the front of the roof everything a good spray with GT40. It's also very important to keep the release catches greased.... If not that, then probably broken wires as per above, shorting out on something.

 

[Aleita]

OK just to update this in case its useful to someone someday. Its a month or so since I replaced the lengths of wire in the loom and its been fine since. The roof has had an extensive test in that time, with it being up and down well over a 100 times. Refitted the Gaptech + at the week end (really missed that little thing!) and again the roof has been up and down 15 times in the last 3 days without any issues. So it looks like some broken/damaged wires in the loom were my issue (touch wood!). With mine being a pre facelift I wonder if this will become increasingly common as the cars age etc or I've just been a bit unlucky. Looking at the state of the wires I replaced my moneys on it becoming an increasingly common fault as the cars age and particularly prevalent on cars whose roof's see a lot of action.

I think I have the same issue. Ista + give me the same error code. 43/44.

It sounds like latch motor wire will “stretch” only wen the hoot arrive at the windscreen. Because in others position front latch motor works good.

How to change wires? I have to remove entire rooftop ?

 

[MACK]

OK just to update this in case its useful to someone someday. Its a month or so since I replaced the lengths of wire in the loom and its been fine since. The roof has had an extensive test in that time, with it being up and down well over a 100 times. Refitted the Gaptech + at the week end (really missed that little thing!) and again the roof has been up and down 15 times in the last 3 days without any issues. So it looks like some broken/damaged wires in the loom were my issue (touch wood!). With mine being a pre facelift I wonder if this will become increasingly common as the cars age etc or I've just been a bit unlucky. Looking at the state of the wires I replaced my moneys on it becoming an increasingly common fault as the cars age and particularly prevalent on cars whose roof's see a lot of action.

I think I have the same issue. Ista + give me the same error code. 43/44.

It sounds like latch motor wire will “stretch” only wen the hoot arrive at the windscreen. Because in others position front latch motor works good.

How to change wires? I have to remove entire rooftop ?

No, you dont have to remove the roof, but you do have to lower the front half of the roof lining which is done from the front with the roof partially open. Its a series of screws that become apparent once your looking at it. With the the roof lining dropped you'll see the wiring loom running down the (UK Passenger) side of the roof

 

[Aleita]

OK just to update this in case its useful to someone someday. Its a month or so since I replaced the lengths of wire in the loom and its been fine since. The roof has had an extensive test in that time, with it being up and down well over a 100 times. Refitted the Gaptech + at the week end (really missed that little thing!) and again the roof has been up and down 15 times in the last 3 days without any issues. So it looks like some broken/damaged wires in the loom were my issue (touch wood!). With mine being a pre facelift I wonder if this will become increasingly common as the cars age etc or I've just been a bit unlucky. Looking at the state of the wires I replaced my moneys on it becoming an increasingly common fault as the cars age and particularly prevalent on cars whose roof's see a lot of action.

I think I have the same issue. Ista + give me the same error code. 43/44.

It sounds like latch motor wire will “stretch” only wen the hoot arrive at the windscreen. Because in others position front latch motor works good.

How to change wires? I have to remove entire rooftop ?

No, you dont have to remove the roof, but you do have to lower the front half of the roof lining which is done from the front with the roof partially open. Its a series of screws that become apparent once your looking at it. With the the roof lining dropped you'll see the wiring loom running down the (UK Passenger) side of the roof

Thank you, as I supposed it was a wire that been stretched in full closing hood position. There are some blinds point in the wire way. The original cable cost 250 euro... wtf 250 euro for a meter of 2x1 millimeters cable?

So I decided to leave damaged cable in its position and make a new line. From old cable I just remove an reuse the two connectors.

Best regards Alessandro

 

[Aleita]

I’ve found the fault with multimeter testing the line in both both positions. Full time open and full closed.
In my case cable is not completely interrupted. When roof is unlatched. Cable is not stretched and everything work fine.

This post scriptum in case in future someone have the same issue.