Roof fault A696 Hall sensor
- Thread starter ian-r
- Start date
Thank you for this - I have passed to the tech's to take into consideration when diagnosing.
Forgot to update - turned out it was a combination of a Hall sensor and two micro switches....had the car back more than a week now with no issue.....its like a new car. It had been bonging at me intermittently for two years. Peace is restored * sheds a tear of happiness *
Hi,
The a696 fault code means that one or both of the Hall sensors on the ram in the boot on the right had failed. There seems to be some kind of manufacturing fault with these that takes years to show up. The replacement E89 part from BMW is around GBP200 but the identical part is available for E88 at GBP15 under part number 54347190735.
The a696 fault code means that one or both of the Hall sensors on the ram in the boot on the right had failed. There seems to be some kind of manufacturing fault with these that takes years to show up. The replacement E89 part from BMW is around GBP200 but the identical part is available for E88 at GBP15 under part number 54347190735.
tintoverano
Active member
Red61 said:
tintoverano
Active member
wu_swordsman said:
2 years?! you're patient
tintoverano
Active member
enuff_zed said:tintoverano said:wu_swordsman said:
2 years?! you're patient
He must be! It took you another 2 years to reply to him.
I just scrolled up
lol, just spotted this. The bong was annoying but it didn't stop my enjoyment of the car. The two years just highlighted BMW's attitude and incompetence towards cars that aren't brand new or under warranty. They aren't their priority. It took them two years of me taking it back monthly before they got fed up of seeing me and carried out a proper investigation for such a simple fault.
I usually have to re-secure the cylinder 6 plug after a service also as it always falls out due to BMW not putting it back in properly. It's apparently finicky to put back with a strut brace...even though I have no problem clipping it in place and there is plenty space. So if you find one day, a loss of power and a lumpy engine after a dealer service - OBII it and I guarantee it's a loose cylinder 6 plug ("cylinder 6 misfire"). It could just save you the diagnosis fee and cost for them "to fix" as they wont claim liability as it usually takes a few days to work itself loose.
The good news is my Z4 has been a 100% pleasure, fault free and an MOT dream for the past two years.
I usually have to re-secure the cylinder 6 plug after a service also as it always falls out due to BMW not putting it back in properly. It's apparently finicky to put back with a strut brace...even though I have no problem clipping it in place and there is plenty space. So if you find one day, a loss of power and a lumpy engine after a dealer service - OBII it and I guarantee it's a loose cylinder 6 plug ("cylinder 6 misfire"). It could just save you the diagnosis fee and cost for them "to fix" as they wont claim liability as it usually takes a few days to work itself loose.
The good news is my Z4 has been a 100% pleasure, fault free and an MOT dream for the past two years.
tintoverano
Active member
I have no such experience fortunately
have the car for 18 months now, but never been to a bmw shop or indy - front dampers had to be refurbished
I managed to fix what came up so far, plus maintenance and preventive actions
have the car for 18 months now, but never been to a bmw shop or indy - front dampers had to be refurbished
I managed to fix what came up so far, plus maintenance and preventive actions
Hi all,
So I recently had this same issue pop up, and my roof not opening correctly (back window panel stuck when trying to lift and continues to bounce up and down). I got Carista out and diagnosed it as an A696 hall sensor faulty problem, and for the part to be about £215 to replace (part no. 54377224679). Ouch.
I took it to my local garage for them to diagnose (and replace the rear pads with EBC Redstuff which I'm finding to be excellent!) and they confirmed it was the 'hall sensor that sits on the piston' itself as I had diagnosed, confirming the £215 problem.
While following this thread, the above mention came up of the hall sensor from the 1 series convertible being an identical part and being only £15. (Part Number 54 34 7 190 735). For the cost difference I figured this was a no-brainer and thought it to be worth a shot if it works.
I can say that the 1 series convertible hall sensor is almost identical, but not quite, as it is missing the connector from one end. Having traipsed around the internet I have found the follow parts to be required if you want it to be a complete kit.
Hall sensor: £15 Part No. 54 34 7 190 735 bought directly from BMW (just pretend you have a 1 series convertible to get to checkout).
Connector pins: £2.50 Part No. 61131393723 I bought them from ebay but I'm sure you can get them from elsewhere.
Connector block: £3? Part No. 8373575-02 I personally reused the one that came off the old part, but one can be bought from aliexpress with a pretty long delivery time, however it means you can just do a straight swap when the part arrives.
After that you just need cut the wires to the correct length, strip the cable, crimp the connector pins to the cable, put the pins into the connector block, then put the part back into the car. It's fiddly, but I found it could be done in place without having to remove anything.
Beeacon.
So I recently had this same issue pop up, and my roof not opening correctly (back window panel stuck when trying to lift and continues to bounce up and down). I got Carista out and diagnosed it as an A696 hall sensor faulty problem, and for the part to be about £215 to replace (part no. 54377224679). Ouch.
I took it to my local garage for them to diagnose (and replace the rear pads with EBC Redstuff which I'm finding to be excellent!) and they confirmed it was the 'hall sensor that sits on the piston' itself as I had diagnosed, confirming the £215 problem.
While following this thread, the above mention came up of the hall sensor from the 1 series convertible being an identical part and being only £15. (Part Number 54 34 7 190 735). For the cost difference I figured this was a no-brainer and thought it to be worth a shot if it works.
I can say that the 1 series convertible hall sensor is almost identical, but not quite, as it is missing the connector from one end. Having traipsed around the internet I have found the follow parts to be required if you want it to be a complete kit.
Hall sensor: £15 Part No. 54 34 7 190 735 bought directly from BMW (just pretend you have a 1 series convertible to get to checkout).
Connector pins: £2.50 Part No. 61131393723 I bought them from ebay but I'm sure you can get them from elsewhere.
Connector block: £3? Part No. 8373575-02 I personally reused the one that came off the old part, but one can be bought from aliexpress with a pretty long delivery time, however it means you can just do a straight swap when the part arrives.
After that you just need cut the wires to the correct length, strip the cable, crimp the connector pins to the cable, put the pins into the connector block, then put the part back into the car. It's fiddly, but I found it could be done in place without having to remove anything.
Beeacon.
There is nothing to go wrong in the hall sensor. Would be interesting if the old connector was cut off and reconnected back to the old wiring.
It flags up a fault because the connector becomes lose.
Test the sensor wire to 9v battery, in line with multimeter set to current and pass a metallic object over the face of the sensor, the current should change.
It flags up a fault because the connector becomes lose.
Test the sensor wire to 9v battery, in line with multimeter set to current and pass a metallic object over the face of the sensor, the current should change.
'There is nothing to go wrong in the hall sensor' I beg to differ! here is a picture of the sensor I removed from mine for the same problem, you can see the cover has cracked and water has got inside corroding the magnet and probably the electronics. In my case I reused the old connector with the new sensor thus (I think in my case at least) showing the problem was with the sensor and not the connector
Hi thanks for this info, I’ve bought a new e88 hall sensor for my e89 z4, however as shown in your photo the red and brown wires seem to be reversed on the new sensor (it also seems reversed compared to the yellow and brown leads on my e89 sensor) which way round did you wire it when you used the existing connector ie brown to brown. I ask as I have tested the new sensor and it seems you have to have the correct polarity.
I would be great full for any advice you may have before I attempt to change my sensor
Cheers
I would be great full for any advice you may have before I attempt to change my sensor
Cheers
SendNation
New member
I'm closely watching this thread. Same issue here 2014 E89. Just bought it with this issue A696.
Thank you to those who noted the old part with work with some simple splicing.
Thank you to those who noted the old part with work with some simple splicing.
I've run into the same issue (A696 open circuit), and according to Carista the error first appeared in December so no I've idea what caused the the failure as I wouldn't have opened the roof back then.
I've ordered the replacement parts (thanks Beeacon) and I'm planning on repairing this weekend, but a quick question for anyone that's already done this...
So far I think I've identified it's the sensor on the top of the boot piston that's broken, but I've only investigated with the roof completely closed. I haven't risked opening my roof since the fault appeared as I'm concerned I might not be able to close it again! In fact I don't even know if the roof/boot lid will even open if I try. So I'm wondering if it's possible for me to replace the hall sensor in this position, or is the access just too tight?
Cheers
I've ordered the replacement parts (thanks Beeacon) and I'm planning on repairing this weekend, but a quick question for anyone that's already done this...
So far I think I've identified it's the sensor on the top of the boot piston that's broken, but I've only investigated with the roof completely closed. I haven't risked opening my roof since the fault appeared as I'm concerned I might not be able to close it again! In fact I don't even know if the roof/boot lid will even open if I try. So I'm wondering if it's possible for me to replace the hall sensor in this position, or is the access just too tight?
Cheers
The fault appeared on my z4 when opening and closing the roof. On opening the cycle stopped when the roof package went in the boot and the boot lid failed to close. On closing the roof failed the connect with the windscreen. In both circumstances the cycle could be completed by holding down the appropriate button ( on occasion a couple of presses were necessary). So pressing the dash button appeared to serve as an override.
I therefore replaced the top hall sensor with the boot open after stopping it mid cycle. Now everything is working as it should to my relief lol
Hope this helps
I therefore replaced the top hall sensor with the boot open after stopping it mid cycle. Now everything is working as it should to my relief lol
Hope this helps
