AlpinaRoadsterS
Member
z4all said:
The second posting in my link shows the website und gives you the answer.
z4all said:
I paid 335,00 Euro including tax.
Roof DRAINS!!
- Thread starter z4all
- Start date
The second posting in my link shows the website und gives you the answer.
I paid 335,00 Euro including tax.
AlpinaRoadsterS
Member
GreyZed said:
No matter how much options you have - it can be done
OK chaps. Ive taken the roof off car this evening ( off my Winter Project Zed, not my Alpina!)
The Process involved whipping out the parcel shelf first which does give much improved access, but there was no way I was going to get the motor out through there on the first occasion, therefore we took the roof off completely.
I can swing the motor into the boot from the existing position and it will hang there by the Bluetooth unit. But...it will do so because there is no parcel shelf in place, so I have to find some way of routing the Hydraulic lines so as not to foul the operation of the shelf, once its back in place.
The power cables are plenty long enough and so are the two lines from the drivers side of the car. The restriction is the two Hydraulic lines from the local (pump)side of the car, so the question is:
A) Do I drill a small hole (c30mm) in the side plastic tray, by the parcel shelf, then disconnect the lines and pass them through the hole before reconnecting to the motor in the boot, or am I missing a path ?
B)) Do I need to buy two longer Hydraulic lines and take an alternatively longer route ?
Or
C) When everything is out of the way, the most obvious and closest place to relocate the motor, would be inside the rear cubby hole behind the passenger seat, (if you dont have the extra speakers). Has anyone done this ?
I'll add some pictures shortly.
The well where the motor sits is top left and the parcel shelf bracket can be seen bottom right.
The Process involved whipping out the parcel shelf first which does give much improved access, but there was no way I was going to get the motor out through there on the first occasion, therefore we took the roof off completely.
I can swing the motor into the boot from the existing position and it will hang there by the Bluetooth unit. But...it will do so because there is no parcel shelf in place, so I have to find some way of routing the Hydraulic lines so as not to foul the operation of the shelf, once its back in place.
The power cables are plenty long enough and so are the two lines from the drivers side of the car. The restriction is the two Hydraulic lines from the local (pump)side of the car, so the question is:
A) Do I drill a small hole (c30mm) in the side plastic tray, by the parcel shelf, then disconnect the lines and pass them through the hole before reconnecting to the motor in the boot, or am I missing a path ?
B)) Do I need to buy two longer Hydraulic lines and take an alternatively longer route ?
Or
C) When everything is out of the way, the most obvious and closest place to relocate the motor, would be inside the rear cubby hole behind the passenger seat, (if you dont have the extra speakers). Has anyone done this ?
I'll add some pictures shortly.
The well where the motor sits is top left and the parcel shelf bracket can be seen bottom right.
Myself snd Danstarr did it in exactly 1 hour, although Dan knew what he was doing.
The motor was bone dry, sealed in its boot and wrapped in cling film, so Im none the wiser.
Sometimes the roof works fine on its own, other times it needs a helping start to get going. The motor spins fine on a battery every-time and iin both directions. I'm wondering if it just needed a bit more fluid, but now Im at this stage, Im keen to relocate it. The last thing I want to do is put it all back and find it doesnt work, so I'm going to go for the relocation in to the boot if possible.
The motor was bone dry, sealed in its boot and wrapped in cling film, so Im none the wiser.
Sometimes the roof works fine on its own, other times it needs a helping start to get going. The motor spins fine on a battery every-time and iin both directions. I'm wondering if it just needed a bit more fluid, but now Im at this stage, Im keen to relocate it. The last thing I want to do is put it all back and find it doesnt work, so I'm going to go for the relocation in to the boot if possible.
Hey #5, please post some photos of where the motor would go through to the trunk, if you would please. I am interested in relocating my motor there (after winter is done, possibly sooner if I get time) and as an engineer, prefer to have things diagrammed first.
Thanks,
rj
p.s. I like your thinking regarding relocating to the cubby behind the seat. That might actually be preferable.
Thanks,
rj
p.s. I like your thinking regarding relocating to the cubby behind the seat. That might actually be preferable.
I bookmarked this awhile back. I hope it is helpful. You'll need to translate if you don't speak German.
http://www.zroadster.com/forum/inde...-und-sicher-in-den-kofferraum-verbauen.79900/
https://pixelrichter.de/bilder--videos-1.html
Salty
http://www.zroadster.com/forum/inde...-und-sicher-in-den-kofferraum-verbauen.79900/
https://pixelrichter.de/bilder--videos-1.html
Salty
Number5 said:
Number5 drop tug a pm as he's always said would be happy to advise, but I'm sure when I was talking with him about moving motor to boot it was using existing lines an never mentioned about have to cut anything, am sure motor ended up stood between rear suspension an bulkhead behind passenger seat but it was canted over at a slight angle
It all went back in today and the motor is now in the boot and working fine every time. I just also added a small top up of fluid.
The key bit for me to relocate the motor was drilling a hole in the plastic tray wall. I did this with a small pilot hole whilst the shelf bracket was in place, then removed it and open the hole out to 20mm with a small hole-saw drill, then slotted down to it so I could get the cables/lines in without having to disconnect anything. (Remove the shelf bracket and do the same with the 20mm bit. The holes will then line up)
This allowed all of the hydraulic lines and the two power cables to pass through the most direct route, which then gave me enough spare length to be able to manouvure the motor where I wanted it in the boot corner, whilst keeping it upright. It's easy to then seal up with a bit of sealant to prevent any water passing through it into the boot. (which is unlikely anyway, unless the car is parked facing uphill in a monsoon!)
The key bit for me to relocate the motor was drilling a hole in the plastic tray wall. I did this with a small pilot hole whilst the shelf bracket was in place, then removed it and open the hole out to 20mm with a small hole-saw drill, then slotted down to it so I could get the cables/lines in without having to disconnect anything. (Remove the shelf bracket and do the same with the 20mm bit. The holes will then line up)
This allowed all of the hydraulic lines and the two power cables to pass through the most direct route, which then gave me enough spare length to be able to manouvure the motor where I wanted it in the boot corner, whilst keeping it upright. It's easy to then seal up with a bit of sealant to prevent any water passing through it into the boot. (which is unlikely anyway, unless the car is parked facing uphill in a monsoon!)
Lovely work there. I would've done the same regarding the hole in the plastic tray. Seems a sensible idea.
I think this is my next big project as I always Park my car outside and it doesn't always have the hardtop fitted.
Hopefully there will be a nice how to guide soon on removing the hood and relocating the motor
I think this is my next big project as I always Park my car outside and it doesn't always have the hardtop fitted.
Hopefully there will be a nice how to guide soon on removing the hood and relocating the motor
Already a decent pdf guide for removing the roof. The relocation is pretty straight forward with those pictures shown by number 5.ben g said:Lovely work there. I would've done the same regarding the hole in the plastic tray. Seems a sensible idea.
I think this is my next big project as I always Park my car outside and it doesn't always have the hardtop fitted.
Hopefully there will be a nice how to guide soon on removing the hood and relocating the motor
z4all said:
It only took 1hr to have the roof out and on the garage flloor, which two of us did on Wednesday eve.
However, it took about 5 hours today to relocate the motor and get it back in again. Saying that, I reckon I could do it a bit quicker next time, as we had to undo a few stages as we probably did a couple of things in the wrong order and made it difficult for ourselves ! Relocating the motor is easy. Once Id decided to drill the hole it takes 10 seconds !
Its not difficult, theres not a lot to it, but its daunting if youve not done it before. Luckily Danstarr showed me how to take it out and what plugs to disconnect. All I had to do was remember and then reverse the process.
Ive taken some photos, but the boot is a dark area to photograph, so they arent that clear, but I'll see what I can do with them over the next few days. Taking care of the glass in the rear screen is the worry, as if that goes, its a new roof !
I wouldnt bother doing this just for the sake of it, especially if you garage your car. If I left my car outside all the time and wanted to avoid £300 for a new motor, maybe I would. If you HAVE to replace the motor, definitely relocate it whilst in the process.
I wont be taking my Alpina apart and risking the paintwork to do it as I will just do it myself if/whenever it becomes necessary.