Roof DRAINS!!
- Thread starter z4all
- Start date
On my 2003 I check the plug every few years. There has never been any moisture or debris. One preventive measure I took since it was new, was after spraying protectant (Raggtopp) I lower the top a few inches and spray the hidden lower portion. After washing if you lower the top about 2 inches you'll see a puddle of water repelled on the lower fabric. Just use a towel to remove it. After a few minutes of drying, place the top back up. I suspect that this water would otherwise drain to the bottom. Just saying.
On the original 3 questions:
Yes- The hardtop stops water getting to the canvas roof where it would drain,
The bungs aren't the cause of the blockage and removing them just pipes road lose direct into the cabin. Pointless removing them.
Extending drains is pointless the issue is higher up where the water soaks the motor on the passenger side and does the damage.
Yes- The hardtop stops water getting to the canvas roof where it would drain,
The bungs aren't the cause of the blockage and removing them just pipes road lose direct into the cabin. Pointless removing them.
Extending drains is pointless the issue is higher up where the water soaks the motor on the passenger side and does the damage.
cj10jeeper said:
Doesn't the water soak the motor because the drain is blocked and therefore water gathers and floods the motor. If u extend the drain, it will allow easy access for me to hoover the drain. It just makes the clearing of the drains easier because it will make the access to drains less awkward.
Having said all that though, I'm thinking relocation is the way forward.
I believe the blockage occurs at the base of the motor and fills that.
My analogy is that it's like having a blocked kitchen sink u bend and keep cleaning the end of the pipe outside the house or extending it.
My analogy is that it's like having a blocked kitchen sink u bend and keep cleaning the end of the pipe outside the house or extending it.
z4all said:
Flexible wire such as those that hold net curtains. Work from top or bottom once every year or so. End of issue.
Prevent by by not parking under trees and hardtop in Winter (which is all I ever do)
Don't let the potential roof motor issue spoil your enjoyment of the car. The likelihood of failure is in my opinion linked directly to whether the car has been garaged when not in use or has spent it's entire life outside (as this could easily double or treble the amount of rain and debris your roof drains will see irrespective of mileage).
If you look hard enough at a car there are usually some signs as to whether previous owners have parked in garages (build ups of green deposits along rubber trims/seals, UV degradation of lights and plastic trim etc.). Of course anyone who has been a serious detailer may have removed most of this but when I was searching for the right Zed I could tell most of the time (sometimes by the fact that the seller's garage was too full of bikes etc.).
Just enjoy your Zed and if the roof motor does happen to become an issue in the future then you can consider re-locating it to the boot at that time. A large part of the cost is labour because you have to remove and re-fit the entire soft top just to access the motor. Personally I see no reason to incur that cost unless absolutely necessary. Your call but if your motor is working and you don't release a gallon of water when you poke a wire up your drain tubes I would just forget about it for now and enjoy your car.
If you look hard enough at a car there are usually some signs as to whether previous owners have parked in garages (build ups of green deposits along rubber trims/seals, UV degradation of lights and plastic trim etc.). Of course anyone who has been a serious detailer may have removed most of this but when I was searching for the right Zed I could tell most of the time (sometimes by the fact that the seller's garage was too full of bikes etc.).
Just enjoy your Zed and if the roof motor does happen to become an issue in the future then you can consider re-locating it to the boot at that time. A large part of the cost is labour because you have to remove and re-fit the entire soft top just to access the motor. Personally I see no reason to incur that cost unless absolutely necessary. Your call but if your motor is working and you don't release a gallon of water when you poke a wire up your drain tubes I would just forget about it for now and enjoy your car.
AlpinaRoadsterS
Member
GreyZed said:
Sorry, but this is simply wrong. You can change the motor (or replace it in the trunk) WITHOUT removing the soft top. And yes - it fits into the trunk without the need to extend any cables or pipes. It was done with my car I was standing beside that when it was made. Not one screw from the soft top was touched.
Number5 said:
It is possible to remove the motor without removing the roof, I've not done it myself but I've heard of others that have-it's accessed through the boot using one of those scope cameras & a long sharp screwdriver to sever a securing cable tie.
Regards
AlpinaRoadsterS
Member
Number5 said:
YES 8)
Number5 said:
In my case it took 45 minutes. My roof motor was like new - so "pixelrichter" only had to move the motor into the boot. If the motor is not working - it will take 30 up to 60 minutes longer for resurrecting him.
Like Smartbear wrote - it is done with a person in the car and a second person with a endoscope camera in the boot, directing the person in the car to cut the cable ties (holding the roof motor housing).
More: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=79423
Interesting. I stand corrected if you have seen it done, though it seems UK members would have to travel to Gemany to get this done via that method at the moment! If Tug and others start using that method and become proficient at it in the UK that may change of course. Can't really tell if that would work for cars with all the options either as TV module, Bluetooth etc. take up a lot of space in that area. Alpines and Intravees as easily moved but not ULFs and TV tuners.