Roof button - no lights?
- Thread starter Jez_m
- Start date
Before you spend any more money I would get the codes read - even if you have to pay out it could well save you money in the long run. For what its worth I disconnect the gaptech. Mechanical connections have failed for a lot of other forum members and I think a couple of members have had the gaptech units themselves fail.
I’ll get my code reader out when I’m home next, def sounds like it’s worth a check.
Gaptech.. maybe it is.. sudden failure though? The only thing still working is the remote roof lowering, after pressing the unlock three times the front motor whirs open then immediately shut again. So the gaptech is getting signal and trying to start the process... which makes me think the ecu is then not doing its bit..
Gaptech.. maybe it is.. sudden failure though? The only thing still working is the remote roof lowering, after pressing the unlock three times the front motor whirs open then immediately shut again. So the gaptech is getting signal and trying to start the process... which makes me think the ecu is then not doing its bit..
I’ve got a gaptech, my roof throws a wobbly very occasionally, refusing to move on the cabin button press, needs held when it shouldn’t or flashes a red light at me. I reckon it’s a dodgy crimp connection in mine. You should definitely remove it and see if the roof works without it. And when you put it back get brave and use bullet connectors, the are much more reliable.
Smartbear said:Jez_m said:
Hi, not that one I meant the gaptec unit under the ashtray, as mentioned earlier the scotch clips supplied are useless and prone to open circuits
Rob
Gaptech removal is first on the list for next Sat followed by code reading. Have also ordered a replacment roof ECU in case it's that.
Look forward to marking this topic as solved!!
Bing said:
+1 on the intermittent wobble. Took mine out in the end for nine months and not one wobble. Put the Gaptech back on and a month or so down down the line the roof played up. Mine was soldered in both times, once by the previous owner and the second time by me, so I think it's the actual unit rather than the connections.
Jez_m said:
Isn't this a change from the original symptom of no lights?
For troubleshooting it's useful to just make one change at a time, so why not swap the roof ECU back and see if that changes anything.
I'm not sure what the behaviour is when the unlatching motor fails, I'd expect the windows to still drop.
+1 Scooba-Steve.
Jez_m by making the changes together you've just added an unknown ECU into the mix (are these coded to the car?) and another set of connectors to it that may not be engaged correctly.
Did you use a code reader or did you just change the roof ECU anyway? What were the fault codes then or now?
Jez_m by making the changes together you've just added an unknown ECU into the mix (are these coded to the car?) and another set of connectors to it that may not be engaged correctly.
Did you use a code reader or did you just change the roof ECU anyway? What were the fault codes then or now?
I’ve no idea if the roof ecus are coded to a car?!
I would have thought not. Before I tried the new ecu I fixed the wiring after removing the gap tech device. I then disconnected the battery for 20 mins and on reconnection I just had the flashing lights with no action at all. After that is when I changed the ecu over to the new one which gave the exact same results.
Which app do you guys use for fault code reading?
I tried last week and got no fault codes on the app I used.. Carly f lite
I would have thought not. Before I tried the new ecu I fixed the wiring after removing the gap tech device. I then disconnected the battery for 20 mins and on reconnection I just had the flashing lights with no action at all. After that is when I changed the ecu over to the new one which gave the exact same results.
Which app do you guys use for fault code reading?
I tried last week and got no fault codes on the app I used.. Carly f lite
Problem with the emergency release cable, is that the actual plunger on the pump head is brass. Because the pump body is aluminium, once it gets wet, you end up with galvanic corrosion, and the plunger either seizes in the "pushed in" position, or refuses to be pushed in at all. Both scenarios need the pump out to fix.
Mike
Mike
If you get the same symptoms with either ECU then seems fair to rule them out.
If I read correctly you've gone from gaptech with no lights to removing gaptech and flashing red light with no window drop or unlatch?
Mike will correct me if I'm wrong, but that doesn't sound like a motor or release cable/plunger issue.
If I read correctly you've gone from gaptech with no lights to removing gaptech and flashing red light with no window drop or unlatch?
Mike will correct me if I'm wrong, but that doesn't sound like a motor or release cable/plunger issue.
Scooba_Steve said:
Yes m8, if the Gaptech has been removed and therefore eliminated. Roof ECU's are not coded and the different part no's are interchangeable. They are a rare failure, but I carry spares for testing/substitution. I have only ever had one failed, and it was caused by an auto spark back probing it with 12v.. It DID show up on a diagnostic check, as "no communication with module"
Mike