Rod bearing replacement - UPDATE

mr_z4mc_oz said:
How many miles or kilometers should you be doing the rod bearing replacement at to be on the safe side?

Thanks

I would say 80k miles would be a reasonable point to change out the rod bearings. Then again you should assess your usage as well (track vs road etc) and how many short journeys you do. Then reduce as required.
 
hopz121 said:
How is the running in going OP?

I have managed 40 miles so far so this could take a while.... I am finding it very boring that's for sure.

Ash

I feel your pain! So I've managed 500 miles and planning to change the oil this weekend. I just took the car on very long boring motorway journeys. Also changed out the brake pads, discs and rebuilt the front calipers this weekend so now I can't use the brakes for another bunch of miles but atleast I can feel the s54 power after this weekend :driving:
 
Viren said:
To continue on from my previous thread, I had my rod bearings and bolts replaced by CPC engineering recently as well as vibra technic road engine mounts fitted (WHICH ARE AMAZING!!).

To start with my car has 74k miles and I have owned it from 39k miles. It has had an oil change every 6k miles. I have ALWAYS ensured the oil is at operating temperature before flooring it and do drive it like it was meant to be driven.

Phil at CPC mentioned that based on the condition of the bearings it was clear the car has had sufficient oils changes and not ragged from cold which is where the damage is usually done.

Rod bearings.jpg

Rod bearings.jpg

No offence, but your upper shells don’t look to be in great condition considering the mileage. Even more so that you mention that you have always warmed up the car before revving and changed your oil every 6,000 miles.

I got mine changed this weekend. Car was produced in 2002 and is currently on 78,000 miles, however bearings were recalled at 19,000 miles and so shells have seen circa 60,000 miles. Car has had oil changes every 7,000 miles /1.5 years on average and 3 previous owners. I have put 3,500 miles on it since July 18.

It’s just weird how yours had much more copper showing, yet similar mileage and apparent ‘abuse’.

AE593166-5721-405B-910A-9E2E035F3A23.jpeg

B78939D9-9737-4ECC-9DA6-57FF7B87AFDB.jpeg

79AD544C-C035-476F-93C7-EA82D9C812AB.jpeg

90386D76-A4FB-47BF-B447-58C58A69C737.jpeg

9CC7BE83-D007-4772-8713-15FACD2C67B9.jpeg

1844478A-9841-412D-B115-CC4037A8CFBD.jpeg
 
R60BBA said:
Viren said:
To continue on from my previous thread, I had my rod bearings and bolts replaced by CPC engineering recently as well as vibra technic road engine mounts fitted (WHICH ARE AMAZING!!).

To start with my car has 74k miles and I have owned it from 39k miles. It has had an oil change every 6k miles. I have ALWAYS ensured the oil is at operating temperature before flooring it and do drive it like it was meant to be driven.

Phil at CPC mentioned that based on the condition of the bearings it was clear the car has had sufficient oils changes and not ragged from cold which is where the damage is usually done.

Rod bearings.jpg

Rod bearings.jpg

No offence, but your upper shells don’t look to be in great condition considering the mileage. Even more so that you mention that you have always warmed up the car before revving and changed your oil every 6,000 miles.

I got mine changed this weekend. Car was produced in 2002 and is currently on 78,000 miles, however bearings were recalled at 19,000 miles and so shells have seen circa 60,000 miles. Car has had oil changes every 7,000 miles /1.5 years on average and 3 previous owners. I have put 3,500 miles on it since July 18.

It’s just weird how yours had much more copper showing, yet similar mileage and apparent ‘abuse’.

AE593166-5721-405B-910A-9E2E035F3A23.jpeg

B78939D9-9737-4ECC-9DA6-57FF7B87AFDB.jpeg

79AD544C-C035-476F-93C7-EA82D9C812AB.jpeg

90386D76-A4FB-47BF-B447-58C58A69C737.jpeg

9CC7BE83-D007-4772-8713-15FACD2C67B9.jpeg

1844478A-9841-412D-B115-CC4037A8CFBD.jpeg

Not sure what you mean by apparent abuse, i stated a fact about how I use my car. Any who, yes yours do look to be in better condition, i think it is well known rod bearing issues can happen to any s54 including those that a nannied. Unfortunately a design related issue given such tight tolerances.
 
MrPT said:
Do you know what make the shells are that came out? “CL”?
They’re recalled shells and so are OEM.

I presume BMW uses shells made by a third party (CL) - but I don’t actually know who they are no.

I replaced my OEM shells with a fresh set of OEM shells and ARP bolts.

:thumbsup:
 
Viren said:
Not sure what you mean by apparent abuse, i stated a fact about how I use my car. Any who, yes yours do look to be in better condition, i think it is well known rod bearing issues can happen to any s54 including those that a nannied. Unfortunately a design related issue given such tight tolerances.

That’s my point, both our cars have similar mileage and haven’t been abused, yet our bearing shell wear is completely different.

I don’t think the tolerances are an issue on the S54? I think that’s an S65 issue...?
 
Mine after 100k, I believe the car was well treated beforehand, not advised to run in or change the oil post replacement. I replaced the engine mounts with vibra techniques also which made a nice difference.

Rod 1.jpg
Rod 2.jpg
 
My take in one the oil change after fitting new rod bearings is this.
If the oil is well within the normal life of the oil leave it in but change the oil filter.

Thought process for this is, the oil has whatever unwanted particles in it from use the oil is used in the engine for what ever bearing or bit it lubricates then it is free to flow the sump dirt and all the suction strainer for the oil pump is submerged in oil at all time (or should be) the oil is then passed through the oil pump and the pressure increased to normal oil pressure it then flows through the oil filter, and then on to what ever bit it lubricates again.

So if the oil filter is changed post any engine work then changed again you can look at the filter and look for any particles the oil filter has captured and access the condition of the oil and then change and re monitor as required.

There are oil labs that will do oil analysis to tell you what the contaminants are. So if white metal is found the rod or mains are on their way if steel it will be something made from steel say the timing chain etc you need to know what different wear parts are made from to make the most of this service.

http://www.theoillab.co.uk/buy-kits/
 
I ended up dropping the oil after 900 miles at iRock Performance.

Didn’t go above 3,000 rpm for the first 500 miles, but then did a mixture of driving between 500 and 900 miles, including a few Italian tune ups.

The technician at iRock took the oil filter out and showed me some flakes in the oil at the bottom of the housing.

So I deffo recommend dropping the oil after a rod bearing service to ensure that your engine is fully clean. :thumbsup:
 
The technician at iRock took the oil filter out and showed me some flakes in the oil at the bottom of the housing.

So I deffo recommend dropping the oil after a rod bearing service to ensure that your engine is fully clean. :thumbsup:

Was the engine clean before the bearing change, just a question as the particles could be historical particles or from the new bearings either way the oil filter is going its job.
 
PDJ said:
The technician at iRock took the oil filter out and showed me some flakes in the oil at the bottom of the housing.

So I deffo recommend dropping the oil after a rod bearing service to ensure that your engine is fully clean. :thumbsup:

Was the engine clean before the bearing change, just a question as the particles could be historical particles or from the new bearings either way the oil filter is going its job.

I presume so, I had only done about 3,000 miles on the oil before it was changed during the rod bearings service.
 
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