Today driving home from work I pushed the window down button for the drivers RH side window it went down a few inches and there was a loud bang and the window stopped. Pushing the button causes no movement of the window but you can still hear the motor running. The window is completely free from any mechanical mechanism as I can push the window both fully up and down by using my hands on the glass. I obviously haven't had a chance to take off the door cover and have a look but can anyone diagnose the problem, required parts and expense from this?
RH Window - Regulator?
- Thread starter X-S-Z
- Start date
Its not too hard a job, just a little time consuming (not that ive done mine yet - i just had a look). 2-3hrs for an amateurish person id say 
The hardest part is un-sealing the membrane. We used a putty knife on mine which worked ok, but i'd have liked a razor blade or similar to help out!
I have the TIS at home, so if you need the PDF's please lemme know
The hardest part is un-sealing the membrane. We used a putty knife on mine which worked ok, but i'd have liked a razor blade or similar to help out!
I have the TIS at home, so if you need the PDF's please lemme know
If you're going to go into the door, don't forget that there's an airbag in there!!
It's easy to remove and reinstall, but before you work on it take the key out of the ignition and don't put it back in until the wiring is all reconnected. The first reason is that you don't want that thing going off while you're working on it!
The second is that if you turn the key on with the airbag removed you'll trigger an SRS failure light that can only be reset by the dealer (or with a scanner if you have one - such as PEAKE). :x
Bill
It's easy to remove and reinstall, but before you work on it take the key out of the ignition and don't put it back in until the wiring is all reconnected. The first reason is that you don't want that thing going off while you're working on it!
The second is that if you turn the key on with the airbag removed you'll trigger an SRS failure light that can only be reset by the dealer (or with a scanner if you have one - such as PEAKE). :x Bill
It took me two hours. Disconnect the battery b4 you do anything. The hard part is the positioning of the window. After a couple of attemps you will manage it ok. There is a write up on here. Thats the procedure i used. No problem. Make sure you have the radio code. For some reason i did not need it but i would think that it will be need to be inputed once battery is connected.
BillR said:If you're going to go into the door, don't forget that there's an airbag in there!!
It's easy to remove and reinstall, but before you work on it take the key out of the ignition and don't put it back in until the wiring is all reconnected. The first reason is that you don't want that thing going off while you're working on it!
Bill
Cheers for the warning but the light has decided to come on prior to me even attempting to remove the door panel...
EdButler said:Guide Sent
Cheers! After taking the panel off the door tonight it does look like a pita to remove and replace. The cable has snapped which explains the loud bang so I don't think I could have saved it with any remedial action which makes me feel slightly better. Now I get the fun of driving to work with no door card tomorrow...
elliot_holder
Member
Hi All,
Looks like I have the exact same issue.
Same symptoms, window went down, then a loud bang. Now the window wont move, but you can hear the motor spinning.
Aside from a new regulator are any other replacement parts required? e.g. cables or window clips?
Also, if anyone has the fitting guide pdf could you possibly send on to [email protected] ?
It would be much appreciated.
Looks like I have the exact same issue.
Same symptoms, window went down, then a loud bang. Now the window wont move, but you can hear the motor spinning.
Aside from a new regulator are any other replacement parts required? e.g. cables or window clips?
Also, if anyone has the fitting guide pdf could you possibly send on to [email protected] ?
It would be much appreciated.
hotdog3147
Member
My driver's side went last night too, knew it was on it's way out cos the window was making a "clicking" noise when moving, most probably due to the cable about to snap. Prolonged it by greasing the runners every week.
Resist the temptation to keep trying the window though, too many uses and you may burn the motor out, which don't come cheap. Mine is getting done on Sat, a mate works for BMW so is gonna do it on his day off for £20. Plus the price of the part, which is about £120 IIRC. (Passenger one went last year).
Resist the temptation to keep trying the window though, too many uses and you may burn the motor out, which don't come cheap. Mine is getting done on Sat, a mate works for BMW so is gonna do it on his day off for £20. Plus the price of the part, which is about £120 IIRC. (Passenger one went last year).