Retractable Roof Question

[Nocturnal]

Hello,

When I try to pull back the retractable roof, I heard the motor running. The roof unlatches, but it doesn't get pulled back. If I pause and try it again, I'll hear the motor running but the roof doesn't get pulled back. Eventually, it'll end up working.

I'm wondering what I need to buy/do to fix this.

Thanks!

 

[enuff_zed]

This sounds to me like the pump is getting weak.
You need to get the motor moved into the boot first and then probably a new pump fitted to it.
If it was a hydraulic leak it would not eventually work.
Where are you? There are a few people around the UK who can sort this for you.

 

[Nocturnal]

This sounds to me like the pump is getting weak.
You need to get the motor moved into the boot first and then probably a new pump fitted to it.
If it was a hydraulic leak it would not eventually work.
Where are you? There are a few people around the UK who can sort this for you.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I am in the US (SoCal). I found this video online about replacing the pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPhwOO654JA . It also relocates the pump as well. Should I follow this to the T? Incase if I leak hydrualic fluid during the reinstall of the new motor is this something easy to buy and put in?

 

[enuff_zed]

This sounds to me like the pump is getting weak.
You need to get the motor moved into the boot first and then probably a new pump fitted to it.
If it was a hydraulic leak it would not eventually work.
Where are you? There are a few people around the UK who can sort this for you.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I am in the US (SoCal). I found this video online about replacing the pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPhwOO654JA . It also relocates the pump as well. Should I follow this to the T? Incase if I leak hydrualic fluid during the reinstall of the new motor is this something easy to buy and put in?

That video works, yes. Be careful when you lift the casing up that it doesn't hit the small black hall sensors on the hinge and knock them out of line.
When you get it out, remove the black plastic lever on the side of the pump and check that the brass plunger under it is fully out and free to move in and out (sprung loaded). It only moves 2-3mm. If it is stuck in it opens the bypass valve and hydraulic fluid circulates but does not apply pressure to the hinges. (Worth a check in case this is your problem)
That lever is connected to the red ring in the trunk for manual over-ride. When you move the motor into the trunk this cable can be put under tension, so follow the cable round the left side and you will see a white plastic adjuster. Wind this in until the cable at the plastic lever is not under any tension.
With the assembly relocated, stand it upright and fill with ordinary hydraulic jack oil until it spills from the top. This ensures the pump will still work if it is fitted at an angle.
If the fluid level is fine and the bypass plunger is fully out, then it is likely to be a failing pump.
You can buy a complete pump and motor assembly and simply replace the whole thing. Or you can remove the pump from the motor and fit a new pump. If you go this route then you need to be very careful to see where all the small parts go. There is a drive pin that connects the pump to the motor shaft. There are three tiny lateral pins that sit inside holes in the metal impeller within the pump head. Losing even one of these will prevent the pump from working.
If you do disassemble the pump then obviously you will lose fluid. Top up the reservoir then retract the roof but only half way. Then move it forward again and check the level. Top up as necessary. You may need to do this a few times until it is fully bled.
If you lower the roof all the way back and then the level drops you will struggle to raise it again and cannot access the pump to refill it.
To operate the roof with the parcel shelf removed you need to use something to wedge the microswitch on the forward face of the trunk.

Obviously there is a large time offset between you and the UK, where most of our members are from, but if you get stuck i suggest you take loads of photos, post them on here and wait for help.

Good luck.

 

[Nocturnal]

This sounds to me like the pump is getting weak.
You need to get the motor moved into the boot first and then probably a new pump fitted to it.
If it was a hydraulic leak it would not eventually work.
Where are you? There are a few people around the UK who can sort this for you.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I am in the US (SoCal). I found this video online about replacing the pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPhwOO654JA . It also relocates the pump as well. Should I follow this to the T? Incase if I leak hydrualic fluid during the reinstall of the new motor is this something easy to buy and put in?

That video works, yes. Be careful when you lift the casing up that it doesn't hit the small black hall sensors on the hinge and knock them out of line.
When you get it out, remove the black plastic lever on the side of the pump and check that the brass plunger under it is fully out and free to move in and out (sprung loaded). It only moves 2-3mm. If it is stuck in it opens the bypass valve and hydraulic fluid circulates but does not apply pressure to the hinges. (Worth a check in case this is your problem)
That lever is connected to the red ring in the trunk for manual over-ride. When you move the motor into the trunk this cable can be put under tension, so follow the cable round the left side and you will see a white plastic adjuster. Wind this in until the cable at the plastic lever is not under any tension.
With the assembly relocated, stand it upright and fill with ordinary hydraulic jack oil until it spills from the top. This ensures the pump will still work if it is fitted at an angle.
If the fluid level is fine and the bypass plunger is fully out, then it is likely to be a failing pump.
You can buy a complete pump and motor assembly and simply replace the whole thing. Or you can remove the pump from the motor and fit a new pump. If you go this route then you need to be very careful to see where all the small parts go. There is a drive pin that connects the pump to the motor shaft. There are three tiny lateral pins that sit inside holes in the metal impeller within the pump head. Losing even one of these will prevent the pump from working.
If you do disassemble the pump then obviously you will lose fluid. Top up the reservoir then retract the roof but only half way. Then move it forward again and check the level. Top up as necessary. You may need to do this a few times until it is fully bled.
If you lower the roof all the way back and then the level drops you will struggle to raise it again and cannot access the pump to refill it.
To operate the roof with the parcel shelf removed you need to use something to wedge the microswitch on the forward face of the trunk.

Obviously there is a large time offset between you and the UK, where most of our members are from, but if you get stuck i suggest you take loads of photos, post them on here and wait for help.

Good luck.

Thank you for the reply!

I found this option on amazon, but it appears to be the whole enclosure including the hydraulic reservoir. The video that I linked above seems to only replace the motor on the bottom. Would you recommend replacing the whole enclosure or just the motor at the bottom? https://www.amazon.com/Lamerto-Hydraulic-Convertible-54347193448-54347119633/dp/B099VZ88QT vs https://www.amazon.com/Convertible-Hydraulic-Bracket-54347193448-2003-2008/dp/B0CHY47CF3/

 

[enuff_zed]

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I am in the US (SoCal). I found this video online about replacing the pump: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPhwOO654JA . It also relocates the pump as well. Should I follow this to the T? Incase if I leak hydrualic fluid during the reinstall of the new motor is this something easy to buy and put in?

That video works, yes. Be careful when you lift the casing up that it doesn't hit the small black hall sensors on the hinge and knock them out of line.
When you get it out, remove the black plastic lever on the side of the pump and check that the brass plunger under it is fully out and free to move in and out (sprung loaded). It only moves 2-3mm. If it is stuck in it opens the bypass valve and hydraulic fluid circulates but does not apply pressure to the hinges. (Worth a check in case this is your problem)
That lever is connected to the red ring in the trunk for manual over-ride. When you move the motor into the trunk this cable can be put under tension, so follow the cable round the left side and you will see a white plastic adjuster. Wind this in until the cable at the plastic lever is not under any tension.
With the assembly relocated, stand it upright and fill with ordinary hydraulic jack oil until it spills from the top. This ensures the pump will still work if it is fitted at an angle.
If the fluid level is fine and the bypass plunger is fully out, then it is likely to be a failing pump.
You can buy a complete pump and motor assembly and simply replace the whole thing. Or you can remove the pump from the motor and fit a new pump. If you go this route then you need to be very careful to see where all the small parts go. There is a drive pin that connects the pump to the motor shaft. There are three tiny lateral pins that sit inside holes in the metal impeller within the pump head. Losing even one of these will prevent the pump from working.
If you do disassemble the pump then obviously you will lose fluid. Top up the reservoir then retract the roof but only half way. Then move it forward again and check the level. Top up as necessary. You may need to do this a few times until it is fully bled.
If you lower the roof all the way back and then the level drops you will struggle to raise it again and cannot access the pump to refill it.
To operate the roof with the parcel shelf removed you need to use something to wedge the microswitch on the forward face of the trunk.

Obviously there is a large time offset between you and the UK, where most of our members are from, but if you get stuck i suggest you take loads of photos, post them on here and wait for help.

Good luck.

Thank you for the reply!

I found this option on amazon, but it appears to be the whole enclosure including the hydraulic reservoir. The video that I linked above seems to only replace the motor on the bottom. Would you recommend replacing the whole enclosure or just the motor at the bottom? https://www.amazon.com/Lamerto-Hydraulic-Convertible-54347193448-54347119633/dp/B099VZ88QT vs https://www.amazon.com/Convertible-Hydraulic-Bracket-54347193448-2003-2008/dp/B0CHY47CF3/

I suspect by your description that the motor on the bottom is fine. The part you possibly need is the square block on the top which is the hydraulic pump and comes complete with the reservoir.
As I said, it may be easiest for you to buy the complete assembly and just do a straight swap.

 

[Nocturnal]

That video works, yes. Be careful when you lift the casing up that it doesn't hit the small black hall sensors on the hinge and knock them out of line.
When you get it out, remove the black plastic lever on the side of the pump and check that the brass plunger under it is fully out and free to move in and out (sprung loaded). It only moves 2-3mm. If it is stuck in it opens the bypass valve and hydraulic fluid circulates but does not apply pressure to the hinges. (Worth a check in case this is your problem)
That lever is connected to the red ring in the trunk for manual over-ride. When you move the motor into the trunk this cable can be put under tension, so follow the cable round the left side and you will see a white plastic adjuster. Wind this in until the cable at the plastic lever is not under any tension.
With the assembly relocated, stand it upright and fill with ordinary hydraulic jack oil until it spills from the top. This ensures the pump will still work if it is fitted at an angle.
If the fluid level is fine and the bypass plunger is fully out, then it is likely to be a failing pump.
You can buy a complete pump and motor assembly and simply replace the whole thing. Or you can remove the pump from the motor and fit a new pump. If you go this route then you need to be very careful to see where all the small parts go. There is a drive pin that connects the pump to the motor shaft. There are three tiny lateral pins that sit inside holes in the metal impeller within the pump head. Losing even one of these will prevent the pump from working.
If you do disassemble the pump then obviously you will lose fluid. Top up the reservoir then retract the roof but only half way. Then move it forward again and check the level. Top up as necessary. You may need to do this a few times until it is fully bled.
If you lower the roof all the way back and then the level drops you will struggle to raise it again and cannot access the pump to refill it.
To operate the roof with the parcel shelf removed you need to use something to wedge the microswitch on the forward face of the trunk.

Obviously there is a large time offset between you and the UK, where most of our members are from, but if you get stuck i suggest you take loads of photos, post them on here and wait for help.

Good luck.

Thank you for the reply!

I found this option on amazon, but it appears to be the whole enclosure including the hydraulic reservoir. The video that I linked above seems to only replace the motor on the bottom. Would you recommend replacing the whole enclosure or just the motor at the bottom? https://www.amazon.com/Lamerto-Hydraulic-Convertible-54347193448-54347119633/dp/B099VZ88QT vs https://www.amazon.com/Convertible-Hydraulic-Bracket-54347193448-2003-2008/dp/B0CHY47CF3/

I suspect by your description that the motor on the bottom is fine. The part you possibly need is the square block on the top which is the hydraulic pump and comes complete with the reservoir.
As I said, it may be easiest for you to buy the complete assembly and just do a straight swap.

Understood, I'd likely want to do a straight swap as well. Would this part be the complete assembly? https://www.ebay.com/itm/314476074628

Thanks!

 

[enuff_zed]

That looks like it yes

 

[Nocturnal]

That looks like it yes

Got it, do I also need to purchase any hydraulic fluid? Is there a certain brand I should purchase? Or would this likely come w/ fluid inside

 

[enuff_zed]

That looks like it yes

Got it, do I also need to purchase any hydraulic fluid? Is there a certain brand I should purchase? Or would this likely come w/ fluid inside

Buy ordinary hydraulic jack fluid.
Read my previous post regarding bleeding and topping up

 

[Nocturnal]

That looks like it yes

Got it, do I also need to purchase any hydraulic fluid? Is there a certain brand I should purchase? Or would this likely come w/ fluid inside

Buy ordinary hydraulic jack fluid.
Read my previous post regarding bleeding and topping up

Thanks, that cleared it up.

I ordered the whole unit for replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a video that shows how to do a full unit replacement. Most are for the electric motor only. The unit that I bought seems to come with the two the ends on the electric motor attached. Whereas, the videos I've watched with an electric motor replacement do not come with them attached. How would my install differ?

 

[enuff_zed]

Got it, do I also need to purchase any hydraulic fluid? Is there a certain brand I should purchase? Or would this likely come w/ fluid inside

Buy ordinary hydraulic jack fluid.
Read my previous post regarding bleeding and topping up

Thanks, that cleared it up.

I ordered the whole unit for replacement. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a video that shows how to do a full unit replacement. Most are for the electric motor only. The unit that I bought seems to come with the two the ends on the electric motor attached. Whereas, the videos I've watched with an electric motor replacement do not come with them attached. How would my install differ?

12mm spanner to undo the two hydraulic unions.
Undo the three small screws to remove the plastic bypass lever housing.
Pull off the two electrical leads.
Then fit everything to the new motor.
Sometimes they run the opposite way. If so, simply swap the two electrical wires over.